Cycling Down Through Hungary - Day 58

Sunday 26th October 2014 - Up early, misty cool morning. Reckon on leaving about 9.30am. Have shower, pack up and its 10.30am. Urgh, where does the time go in the morning.

Shoes and socks thoroughly dried out overnight, so feet not too cold this morning.

Back onto the road. Bit of sun trying to peek through. Mist all around in the distance.

Basically stayed on road 51 for most of the day, through Dunavecse, Solt, Kalocsa to Baja.

Need food. Only had a snickers and packet of chocolate biscuits for tea last night and a cereal bar this morning.

First town shops are all closed. Oh yeah, it's Sunday. Petrol stations are open, so buy a mars, bounty, kitkat, peanuts and a bag of fruit and nut mix.

Find the Eurovelo sign just beside the road after Solt and chance it. Nice smooth tarmac running parallel to the road. Great.

Through a couple of villages. Single storey houses along the roads, all with a yard or garden. Most with dogs in them. Shops all closed.

EV route then goes off back toward the river. I don't. Stay on road as it's straight and direct and I don't know what the EV route will be like. Don't want more gravel or massive detour.

Road is mainly flat and very long. Mostly pretty decent, but then there are sections that are really bumpy and full of holes. Concentration levels high to avoid the pot holes and the cars. Although, not sure if it is because it's a Sunday, but traffic isn't actually too busy. Most people give me plenty of room when passing too.

The speed the cars go on the badly surfaced parts of road, I think being a car mechanic in Hungary would be a good job to do, I'm sure they have plenty of work fixing suspension.

Also there are loads of Suzuki Swift cars here, I think they're built in Hungary. It was the first car I bought, with my student loan whilst at uni, so it's funny to see so many of them here.

There are also a lot of signs for deer every km or so. For miles and miles. Have no eye deer where they'd be living though, as it's all open flat farmland. Saw a fox run across the field beside me at one stage. It was doing about 25kmph. Not much other wildlife about.

100km of straight flat road, with only the odd town or bend. Black clouds following me, but it stays dry. Long day.

See some paprika factories and lots of it hanging up drying around houses. They like their paprika here.

Into Baja. Some great looking buildings. As I had stopped, taking photos and looking at map, a girl with a baby on her back approached me.

She asked if she could help. I said I was either going to the hotel or the camping. She said the camping was open. Decision made. Chatted with her, really nice girl with brilliant English. Said she has a few friends in Istanbul as well she could put me in contact with if I needed. She also offered to show me where the campsite was and if I was staying to meet for lunch tomorrow. I declined, as didn't want to put her out of her way tonight and I need an early start tomorrow, but it was nice of her.

Got her email address, but since I've been blocked out of my emails, for logging in from so many different countries, I'm not sure I'll be able to contact her before (if) I get there.

Camping was 1800HUF, a room was 3300HUF. Worked out about £8 for sleeping indoors, in the warm.

Worryingly there is only one clean sheet for the bed. The pillow case and duvet cover are already on them. I wonder how long they've been on for? Think I'll use a sheet from the other beds to protect me from the duvet and one to go over the pillow!

Went out to the restaurant next door. Had a slap up meal of duck, cabbage, potatoes, salad, beer and coffee for a tenner. Fab!!

I also realised, two days later, that the clocks went back. Coming out of Budapest I saw a clock on the street and it was a hour behind. Just thought it was an old clock. Then this morning, I couldn't believe it took me over an hour to get ready. Plus I thought it was bright really early this morning as well.

My watch was still on old time, but my phone had changed by itself when on WiFi in Budapest. Haha, took a while, but I figured it out!

The only important times of each day for me though are sunrise and sunset - time to go and time to stop.

Day 58 - 26.10.14
Szalkszentmárton to Baja, Hungary
9.30am to 4.30pm
4h 51min cycling
102.2km
2749 calories
376 metres asc

Hungry In Hungary - Day 57

Saturday 25th October 2014 - Bed about 1.30am, wake at 5.30am, up at 7am, away at 11am.

From here on now is like cycling into the unknown. Not sure of route, signs seem to be sparse, conditions of path varies and my maps I've downloaded don't really have much information on them (shops, hostels, hotels, bakeries, landmarks etc) like in the previous countries.

Plus, I've been to most countries or cities I've passed through, the next few I haven't and I have no knowledge of the language either. Different money too, proper border crossings and need a visa for Turkey.

Fun times ahead.

Not too bad cycling out of the city. Along the waterfront to the end of the cycle path, then along beside a road on a well marked cycle lane.

It sometimes then ends, cycle on the road, then it begins again.

McDonalds stop in town of highrise tower blocks. I'm now on the large island in the middle of the Danube. Banked up sides enclosing a vast area of flat farmland.

No signs, so just stayed on roads. Really straight roads.

Crossed the bridge in a nice town called Ráckeve.

Then down along bank of the river for a while, on a horrendous bumpy pot holed road. The whole way along this there are lots and lots of fishing platforms on the edge.

The horrendous road then turns into a muddy dirt track. I am now being held up by a car tentatively making its way down it.

Pass a house with 3 Labrador dogs pulling the feathers out of a freshly caught hen. When I stop to look, the dogs look up at me, the hen makes a run for it (I thought it was already dead), then the dogs chase after it, resulting in mad squawking from the bushes. Poor hen.

Saw a Eurovelo sign on a bank....with a gravel path. N. O.

Went on the road. Just kept turning the pedals round and round and round.

5.30pm, sun setting. Looking at map and I happened to be stopped beside a motel on the opposite side of road.

Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, so to speak, I went over to it.

Walked in and there's a big family dinner party going on. No one else in the restaurant.

5500 HUF, about £14, for a room in  Szalki Fogadó Motel, just outside Szalkszentmárton. Basic, but warm with hot water and a very comfy bed.

Snickers and some mini chocolate biscuits for tea.

Day 57 - 25.10.14
Budapest to Szalkszentmárton, Hungary
11am to 5.30pm
4h 12min cycling
76.8km
1935 calories
490 metres asc

Into Budapest - Day 56

Friday 24th October 2014 - Great buffet breakfast. Even had crispy proper bacon. First bacon butty since leaving, yum. All that was missing was a proper big mug of tea.

Packing up and the hotel man that unlocked the garage, so I could get my bike out, was laughing at me when he asked where I had cycled from and where I was going. He also told me to put a coat on, as it was too cold to cycle without one.

Quick stop at the Tourist Info centre, checked if it was all on road to Budapest. Girl gave me detailed information of where the road bits were and were the cycle paths started and ended. Walked out and promptly forget it all.

Anyway, first bit was back onto the road from last night. 8km in and the rain started. Just put on rain jacket, didn't bother with trousers.

Found cycle path, bumpy with broken tarmac and the trees roots. Covered in leaves and mud too. Nothing is going to be clean after today again.

Had to stop a few times to remove twigs and leaves caught up in the gears.

Wet, cold feet, rain pouring off helmet. Hard to look at map on phone in the rain too, as the touchscreen goes a wee bit mad with the raindrops hitting it.

EV6 signage very bad. Some really dodgy paths into Budapest as well. Pot holes, broken tarmac and a muddy forest section kept things interesting.

Into the city and the paths start to get better. Still had to do a bit of guess work though, as it wound its way through the streets. Not really much fun in the rain. Starting to get really cold now too.

Pass a sculpture of several people holding umbrellas, very fitting for today!

Through a tram stop, guards stopped me and told me to get off and walk the bike through. Feet too cold, can't walk right, kind of like after when you've had pins and needles in your feet, when the feeling is coming back to them. Must've looked like a weirdo, didn't care though, just kept thinking of getting to a warm hostel.

Round a corner and see the city in the distance.

Down to opposite the parliament building, Hungarys largest building, built in a neogothic style. Cycle diversion. Arrgggghhhh.......too cold for this.

Up to the Chain bridge, few quick snaps and across it. First permanent bridge in Budapest, built in 1849. Stayed on a main road for a bit. Roads through Budapest are mental. 4 lanes of traffic and tram line in the middle. Pot holes and puddles. Fast cars. People. Traffic lights. Big city. Don't know where I am, or going. Cold.

Find the hostel, check in, wheel the bike through inside, to the back garage.

Soaked through. Enjoy a really hot shower.

Meet up with my friend Alex, who I met snowboarding in Bulgaria earlier this year, for dinner and drinks. First person I know that I've seen in 55 days. Enjoyed a big plate of beef stew and dumplings and a couple of drinks at a quirky bar called Szimpla Kert, a ruin bar. Good nights craic.

Cold night out though.

Day 56 - 24.10.14
Visegrad to Budapest, Hungary
11am to 4.30pm
3h 02min cycling
48.5km
1190 calories
487 metres asc

Eurovelo 6 Komarno to Visegrad, Hungary - Day 55

Thursday 23rd October 2014 - Survived a windy cold wet night, just! Still cold. Up about 8.30am, pack everything up, too cold to hang about.

Out of campsite and round to the hotel to hand in the keys. Come out to cycle off and realise I don't have my Garmin cycle computer. Hmmm

Last I saw it was in my tent last night. End up unpacking my tent at the hotel entrance, to see if its in the inner section. No it's not.

Look in my bags again, then have to go in to ask for the keys, to go back and look in the campsite. This took ages as the lady didn't understand and phoned someone who spoke English to come to the reception.

Good bye nice early start.

Back in to where I had tent up, looked around, looked in toilet block. Nothing to be found. The man that came with me looked really upset too lol.

Anyway, I knew if it wasn't left there it'd be hiding in my stuff somewhere. Just annoyed I wouldn't be able to records the days cycle.

10.30am finally go.

100 metres down the road stop again. Unpack my sleeping bag on the pavement, clunck, out it drops. Yey!!!!

Celebrate by getting a hot slice of pizza thing from Lidl on way out of town. I also made the fizzy water mistake again, sigh.

Hands and feet still cold.

Round the town, nice old buildings and across the bridge.

Nice smooth new tarmac for a few kms. Also new shelters and bike racks and seating too. The plastic was even still on one of the benches. They are definitely upgrading the tracks.

Didn't last though. Back to the gravel marble track again. Gravel gravel gravel. I really can't believe someone would think and decide it is a great idea to put gravel on a cycle path. Why would you do it?!

No signs again.

Cold. Think feet are still on the end of my legs, haven't been able to feel them since I left.

Rain.

Get to a km or two from Sturovo on the gravel path and it is blocked. No entry sign beside a factory. Went up the field beside it, no paths. Argghhh back 3 or 4km to a path up through the previous village.

Strange place, dance music is being played out of speakers throughout the place. Every 100 metres there's a speaker on a pole, odd. No one around either, just one old lady pushing a cart of flowers up the street.

Takes absolutely forever to reach Sturovo. Was beginning to think that it was just a fictional place.

Eventually off the gravel onto road and cross a bridge over the Danube into Hungary. 10th country I have now cycled in.

Bridge brought me into Esztergom. Lovely town, amazing buildings and big castle up on the hill.

Need to change money, but the banks were closed. Credit card at ATM instead. Have no idea how much the HUF exchange rate is and the ATM didn't tell me either, so took out 50000huf, hoping it wasn't going to be hundreds of pounds!

Decided to just stay on the road after a bit of cycle path out of Esztergom. Starting to get dark, lights on. Really dodgy road. Pot holes and cracks and bumps and a drop off the edge of tarmac. Momentary blindness each time a car passes. Pedalling fast to get as far as possible. It was a bit risky to say the least, not big or smart, but managed another 20km down the road.

Tried a campsite at Domos, but it's only open until September. End up in Visegrad. Today is also a national holiday, so after trying all the accommodation places in the town, to no avail, its a room in Visegrad Hotel for €60.

It's warm. Takes a while to thaw out. Really comfy bed too. Breakfast and use of the swimming pool and spa facilities included. Out on the balcony I can see the castle up on the hill all lit up too.

I do avail of the mini bar in my room.

Day 55 - 23.10.14
Komárno, Slovakia to Visegrad, Hungary
10.30am to 8.30pm
5h 13min cycling
91.9km
2368 calories
604 metres asc

Leaving Bratislava on Eurovelo 6 - Day 54

Wednesday 22nd October 2014 - Back on the road today. Looked at forecast and there was a weather warning about Gonzalo. It was really windy through the night too. Woke up to windows banging.

Cold, windy and raining this morning. Packed up bags. My bike was outside in the terrace, not under cover, so had to scoop out the water that had collected inside of them overnight, before packing.

Back into hostel for breakfast. Bread dipped in egg and fried, with cheese on top and pancakes with cream, chocolate and jam. Hopefully keep the legs turning for a good bit this morning.

Man in the bar with his dog. It came over to me while I was waiting on my food coming. It was really soft and fluffy. It then lay down and feel asleep over my feet.

Brought bike through, down steps, through bar, up steps. Quite a task. Outside and it is sooo cold. Wind is really chilly.

Stopped for more cash on way out of town, then back over the UFO bridge.

Minor detour just after as they look like they were re-building one of the bridges across the river.

Bit of a cycle path, then onto the road for ages. Quiet road though, only me and the rain on it. The Danube was canalised during the Stalin years, so the road was along the dam edge. Flat and slightly sheltered from the wind, I managed 50km in under 2 hours, including coming out of the city. Pretty good, it also kept me warm.

Cold wet feet though.

Crossed the dam onto an island part and there is an outdoor sculpture art museum. Looked good, took few photos, but no time to go in.

Also they use the dammed water for a whitewater kayak course. Looked great, also explains why Slovakia is good during the Olympics etc, the force of the water down the course looked really strong.

On along the edge of the dam. Seagulls and ducks flying away when they eventually realise I'm approaching them.

Stop just before I cross to the other side. Really really windy here and cold. Lots of waves and spray coming off the water too.

Down the other side and along the bank. The smooth tarmac then turned into gravel paths. These were so slow and seemed to suck the wheels in like quicksand. Really monotonous. Nothing to look at either, for miles. The path was on top of a bank, trees on one side, flat farmland on the other. For ages.

Was also keeping an eye on the massive black clouds that seemed to be following me, hoping they wouldn't burst. Kept me motivated to pedal on through the slushy gravel.

This scene repeated over and over for the next couple of hours. Really slow, annoying and boring. Kept switching sides of the track to see if one was better than the other. Neither were.

Every so often there is also a metal barrier across the track. They have a dip in the middle for cyclist to go over. Some have a ramp over the round barrier, some don't. Some also swing when you roll your front wheel over them. Never know which type you'll find at each one, it also means stop starting in the gravel, arrrgghhh.

Slooooooooow. Especially after my really fast morning section.

First person I also pass is a man and his dog out running at 98km.

Also, there are hardly any signs. The ones that are there also seem to be broken, sprayed over, or on the ground, which is a pity. It could have been someone that was tipped over the edge of sanity by the gravel paths, taking their frustration out perhaps?

Into the town of Komarno in the dark. Looked like nice buildings. Still can't feel my feet, or hands now. Really cold.

Found the campsite which is owned by the adjacent hotel. Panorama Hotel, just near the centre. €6.80 for the night.

Round into the site. Windy, cold, rainy, cold, damp, cold, hands don't work. Makes putting the tent up a bit of a challenge.

No food left, only one corny cereal bar (love these) and some peanuts. Not going back into town either.

Hot water in a water bottle and zipped up into tent to try and warm up and sleep.

Brrrr

Day 54 - 22.10.14
Bratislava to Komárno, Slovakia
11.30am to 6.30pm
4h 53min cycling
107.4km
3200 calories
380 metres asc

Rest Day Bratislava - Day 53

Tuesday 21st October 2014
Slept.
All clothes washed and dried.
Wandered round town.
Couldn't find any camping gas.
Love this city - would be lovely in the snow.
McDonald's for lunch.
Bryndzové halušky for dinner.
Sunny, 23 degrees.
Downloaded film on phone to watch.
Jazz band playing in bar in evening.
Raining.
Ready for the road again

          

Beautiful Bratislava - Day 52

Monday 20th October 2014 - Slept well wrapped up like a sausage roll in the silk covered duvet. It was cold last night again, had to have a hot shower before bed to warm up. I've been cold for past couple of days now.

Down for breakfast and away at 10.30am. Liked this place, nice indoor bit with loads of plants. More of those massive trumpet flowers, these ones were white and smelled like jasmine.

Stopped to get cash and restock of cereal bars and some water.

Back out of town to the cycle path. Stopped to check signs and heard a hiss. Nooooo. Looked closer trying to locate its origin, thinking it would be the first puncture of the trip. Realised it was coming from my water bottle.

That bottle of water I bought definitely said 'still' water. Opened the spout, took a sip, sparkling. Really, what is the point in fizzy water, tastes like plastic, but suppose it's a change for a day.

Back to cycling along on a straight bank. Grass each side with trees. Nothing really to see for 20km. Every so often I'd cycle through a warm pocket of air though, which was weird.

Stopped to empty the gravel out of my shoes just before going onto the road. Noticed the last couple of weeks I'm having to pull the velcro tabs of my shoes more and more. Surely my feet can't be shrinking and if so, does that mean I had fat feet before??! Surely not!

Over a big long bridge and round under it to Hainburg an der Donau. Old town with castle and walls, with another big castle up on the hill behind it. Wee ladybird landed on my knee whilst cycling through. I carried her about 5km before she flew off. Doing my bit to help the biodiversity of the banks of the Danube.

The path led up to the train tracks. As I was coming up to the tracks a train was coming. No barriers on the crossing, train driver kept honking his horn. Yes, I can see and hear your big metal tube and I'm miles away and not even going to cross the tracks, as the path turned to go alongside the railway line.

Could see Bratislava way off in the distance, with the distinct shape of Bratislava castle up on the hill. Quite exciting.

Up to the border, no stopping now Slovakia is in the EU. The old border area slowly being taking over by vegetation.

I'm now into eastern Europe, can't read any of the signs. Also each new country has different cycle signage, so have to recognise what your looking for quickly, or you're away in the wrong direction.

Past a bunker museum, didn't look like there was much there, so just cycled on.

Back to the river and coming up to the city, the castle appeared again, as did the UFO bridge (Most SNP bridge). It is a one cable-stayed bridge with only one pylon, on top of which is a flying saucer shaped structure, known as the UFO Outlook Tower. This part is also a restaurant and an observation deck. Looks really fab.

Actually crossed this bridge, the cycle and pedestrian crossing is under the road on it.

Straight into the old town. Really like the feel of eastern European cities. Not sure what it is. Up through the pedestrianised old town streets with all the lovely buildings, street cafes and restaurants, people coming and going.

Out at the top under Michaels Gate, built in the 13th century and one of Bratislavas oldest buildings. Then up to the Presidential Palace.

Just as I had got there, police were stopping traffic and a calvacade of police motorbikes and cars lead out a black car with a flag on it. I presume it must've been the president going for a pint of milk and loaf of bread.

Hostel was just down the street beside the palace. I stopped to admire a nice building, looked at the map and that building was the hostel.

Two nights for €29. Free washing machine and €1 for powder. 8 bed dorm to myself. Bike out in the back terrace.

Had a big feed of chicken pasta, salad, beer and a coffee for €11 in the restaurant/bar downstairs of the hostel. Cool inside. Typical building, big shallow staircase with really high ceilings, wooden floors, double windows. Nicely decorated, really homely feel to it. Kitchen and living room with a piano too.

Think I might do the touristy stuff tomorrow, if the rain stops that is!

Day 52 - 20.10.14
Orth an der Donau, Austria to Bratislava, Slovakia
10.30am to 3.30pm (I think)
2hr 27min cycling
40.2km
1022 calories
306 metres asc

Sunday Stollers in Vienna - Day 51

Sunday 19th October 2014 - Really cold, not as cold as Wiltz, but still foundering last night.

Gas ran out this morning as well, about 45 seconds after lighting it. So got up and luckily there was a stocked kitchen, no kettle, but pans and a cooker...ahhh heat.

One of the cats came in while I was waiting on the water boiling. I scooped it up and cuddled it to try and extract some of its furry warmth. It actually feel asleep in my arms.

Yes, I hadn't turned the cooker up to full heat, after wondering why it was taking so long to boil. Brain obviously froze overnight too.

After planning to leave early, I left at 12pm, argh. It's going to be a big day too. Hoping to make Bratislava, about 120km from here, Traismauer.

Blasted to McDonald's 30km away in Tulln, with the help of Pure Heroine (Lorde album), for food. Sundays the shops are closed.

On my way I saw a group of cyclists with panniers in the distance. Got closer and saw it was the New Zealand family from the Grein campsite, on the rainy day.

Caught up to them and pedalled a bit with them chatting. They are doing eight months world tour and have cycled through Italy, Switzerland and Austria. The girls, I think about 8 and 12 years old, both had their own bags on their bikes. They are finishing in Vienna today and then going to Budapest to sightsee, before flying to Asia to tour around for another couple of months, not on bikes though. Really nice family.

Headed on to McDonalds. Just as I was finishing up, they arrived in.

Today has also been really cold. The misty river fog hadn't lifted and the air was quite cold when cycling along. Still just wearing three quarter length Endura baggies though. Toes frozen for most of day, as socks and shoes still damp.

Finally the sun did manage to put in an appearance about 2pm. So did all the Sunday day out people.

Into Vienna along the river. Have been in the city before, so just followed the signs on past. It went through various roads and paths and was like a race track. Road bikers in full Lycra dodging in and out and round all the other cyclists and walkers at speed, had to really keep an eye out.

Route took me over to the other side of Danube. I didn't want to be on that side, as Bratislava is reached by the right bank, but looking at map couldn't see an easy way without going into the city, so just followed the signs.

The path went on for ages. It was along the grassy banks and lots of people out walking, roller blading, skate boarding, cycling, bbqing, playing football, wrestling.....

On and on and on. Every so often when passing a drain getting a vomit inducing whiff of the stench coming up from them too.

5.30pm and it was about 20km to Orth an der Donau. Knew I wouldn't make Bratislava in daylight, so just decided I'd stay there and go to Slovakia in the morning, as I really want to see the UFO bridge and the castle on the hill on the way in.

So, finally pulled off the grass bank and went through a stunningly beautiful Shell oil refinery (I think that's what it was), for a good bit.

Then it turned into a nature reserve. Sun now setting and there was a lovely red sky (didn't come out too well in photos though).

Stopping for photos was a nightmare, as a plague of hungry mossies decended to eat me each time.

Into Orth in the dark. Saw a few signs coming off the cycle route, before the town, for various types of accommodations.

Into town, cycled round. One of the pensions (like a b&b) was being rebuilt, one was in darkness and there was a nice looking hotel. Really fancied it, but only €39 in my pocket.

Last pension at top of town, so decided I'd go and look at it and then have the hotel as a last resort option.

Pension Sabine, €35 for bed and buffet breakfast. Nice courtyard with big pond. Lady said you can swim in it, I said maybe not tonight thanks. Bike parked in a secure garage.

Only about 20-30km from Bratislava, so will get up have breakfast and a short day tomorrow (hopefully).

Still cold.

Day 51 - 19.10.14
Traismauer to Orth an der Donau, Austria
12pm to 6.30pm
4hr 45min cycling
97.9km
2699 calories
577 metres asc

The Danube Wine Cycle Route - Day 50

Saturday 18th October 2014 - Paid at 8am when the man turned up, €6.20.

Putting on wet socks and shoes, yuk!

Vislof had made me breakfast again. Choice of coffee or tea, cheese sandwich and chocolate bars. After finishing it, I said good bye, all my stuff was already packed up and headed off.

11am and back up and over the bridge to the right side of the river. It was a very misty morning.

4km on and I'd just stopped to take a photo when a guy on a bike stopped to talk to me. Asked where I was going to, coming from blah blah. He was on a road bike with only one small saddled bag. Travelling from Munich to Vienna. I commented he didn't have much stuff, he said he was staying in hotels. Well for some! I said I'd be too slow, suggestively telling him to go on, as I didn't want to cycle with anyone today!

Bit of a climb, round a corner to SUNSHINE!!!! Woohoo!!!

Great feeling the warmth and actually seeing what the view was like. Lovely cycle along the river in the sun with no cars or rain.

On through a few villages. The steep banks of the river now become covered with vines not trees.

Stopped at a Billa for some food. Then when I got back onto the road, someone had clearly stolen all the signs I was following.

The road went up, up and up. Not a cycle sign to be seen. Had seen a great big monestry or castle high on a hill in the distance. Now I was coming up to its height by road. Do the legs good to remind them how to climb after a few days of flat river cycling.

The view from the top was amazing. Looking down on the Danube from a height gave it a completely different look. Great to see it from above as well.

Managed then to somehow find myself on the wine cycle route. That would be a good summer one, cycle from wine house to wine house, sampling the goods!!

Dropped back down to Traismauer and located a campsite. Another short day, but wanted to get all my damp gear from yesterday thoroughly dried out in the sun, before it disappeared at about 6pm.

My sleeping bag is absolutely stinking, as I think it's got packed away too many mornings when the cold damp air had still been on it.

Debating whether to wash it or not. It says hand wash, no tumble dry. Obviously I'd need to machine wash and tumble dry it, but it might end up in a less than fluffy state. Hmmm.

Campsite is in the back garden of a family's house, which is kinda weird but kinda homely too. Only person here.

Day 50 - 18.10.14
Melk to Traismauer, Austria
11am to 4.30pm
3hr 07min cycling
53.2km
1495 calories

560 metres asc

Drenched - Day 49

Friday 17th October 2014 - Rained all night. Up to have a look out in daylight. Coming in and putting up tent in the dark and rain, not sure what the surroundings are like. It's like a surprise for the morning.

Camped under the castle of Grein.

Rain rain rain.

Showered.

Still raining heavily. Puddles everywhere. Tent nearly floating. Ducks now wandering around the campingplatz.

Vislof suggested going to tour the castle, as he didn't want to ride in rain and it was something to do rather than sit in a restaurant. I said I was going to pack up and head on. Only water after all. Everything was soaked anyway and no point wasting a day sitting looking at the rain.

He decided he was coming then too. He said he was going to remember this day for the next 20 years!!

Lots of layers and the waterproofs on and off we went. Waved at the family as we left Grein, they were staying put for the day.

It continued to pour down. The cycle path was beside the road so we were getting the spray from the passing cars and lorries as well.

Foamy knees on my waterproof trousers from spilled washing liquid a couple of weeks ago and the repetitive turning of the pedals made me chuckle.

Vislof was in front and I couldn't stop laughing at how ridiculous we must've looked and how much he probably wished he hadn't have come. We swaped at 10km.

Coming through Weins 15km later I lost him. Waited. 10 minutes past, so I turned back and found him in a bus shelter. Needed a rest, high blood pressure at 270 two years ago, so he needs to take things easy. We chatted for about half an hour. So funny because he sometimes gives completely random answers to some questions I ask him, as he doesn't understand me. So I've simplified my speaking to sentences of only a few keys words!

He rides a 20 year old bike, nothing fancy, with a bit of blue plastic covering his computer and his water bottle is an empty bottle of shop bought water filled with tea, coffee and sugar!

2km later I had passed the 3000km mark, yeow!!

Another stop at a shop in the next town. Sheltered in trolley bay. He spoke German so was able to have the banter with everyone coming to do their shopping. They all said tomorrow will be sunny!

On we went. Crossed the Danube and saw the massive impressive monestry at Melk. A lot of tour boats also docked here.

No camping. So crossed the bridge and found a camp ground in Emmersdorf, on the other side.

5.30pm. Reception was meant to be open from 7-8pm. Vislof went to see prices for rooms at hotel beside campsite. €66 cheapest. Not a chance. Pitched tents then went into the town to the local gasthof for dinner. Beef, gravy and potatoes mmmm. I love these gasthofs. The reception person never turned up.

Mentioned I'd push on tomorrow, as we only did less than 50km today and I need to do more than that each day.

Will see where I get to tomorrow, hopefully to a campsite just before Vienna.

Day 49 - 17.10.14
Grein to Melk, Austria
12.30pm to 5.30pm
2hr 47min cycling
48.7km
1202 calories
293 metres asc