Cycling into Turkey - Day 74

Tuesday 11th November 2014 - Wake earlyish. Feel worse. These past few days have been an almighty struggle. Cycling big distances when you can't breathe, have a sore throat, sore head, stuffy & runny nose and have the sickness sweats ... all the fun times!!

But Istanbul is sooo very close now!!

Can hear the lorries outside, continuously passing. Argh.

Misty outside this morning again. Head back up to the petrol station to stock up. Cherry croissant for brekkie, which was nice.

Same road, ride the white line, lorry's, few hills. Think I pass a dying dog at one stage. Either it's been knocked down by a vehicle, or its only waking up. I tell myself its just waking up, as I can't stop and wouldn't be able to do anything for it if it was, or if I did.

Blocked ears makes the traffic quieter today - trying to think of positives of bring ill. Can't smell any horrific smells with a blocked nose either.

Petrol station in Svilengrad. Sit for a while after having some flavoured popcorn and croissants. Try and muster up the energy to leave.

Petrol stations in Bulgaria still have men working on the forecourt. They have a job on their hands here though, trying to choreograph the big lorries pulling in and out, mixed with the cars.

Onto the motorway now toward the border, quiet big hard shoulder of smooth tarmac.

Bottles of urine and shredded tyres litter the road side.

Come up to a newly built, but not open wide road. Traffic is diverted into single file, I continue on down the lovely new tarmac road and have it all to myself!

Lorries stopping about 10km from the Turkish border, queued up, waiting.

Eventually pass them all and arrive at the border. First check, just show my passport.

Next check I end up having to wait an hour, as the Bulgarian side had no electricity!! Get cold.

Pass through the next checkpoint, cars driving through without stopping,  but I get yelled at and called back.

Wait for several minutes, no one comes speaks to me or comes out. Go to cycle off again, then get shouted at again. They finally take my passport and put details on computer.

Next check, guy barely looks at my Turkish visa on my phone before he stamps passport. Okay.

Next one cycle on through, as it's just the vechile registration plate check.

Finally, I'm into Turkey - my 14th country I'll have cycled in this trip.

Along the hard shoulder of the D100.
Then head into Edrine. Getting dark after all that phaffing around at the border.

Can't believe the aliveness of the city when I arrive. Lights, people, shops, restaurants, noise, music, chatter everywhere. My senses are assaulted, my eyes take time to adjust to all the colours.

Feels so alive compared to the last few weeks through the towns of Serbia and Bulgaria.

Find hotel in centre, B&B for under £20.

Do some washing in the bathroom sink. Then crash out, as still totally bunged up with the sickness.

Day 74 - 11.11.14
Haskovo, Bulgaria to Edirne, Turkey
4h 48min cycling
100.2km
2829 calories
591 metres asc

Sick, so sick of Bulgarian Lorries - Day 73

Monday 10th November 2014 - Wake with a really sore throat. Haven't been feeling 100% since leaving Sofia, but feel awful this morning.

Go for breakfast in the big fancy dining room. No buffet breakfast. Only order an option of menu. I go for French toast. I get pancakes?? The waitress assures me its French toast. Its clearly not. I can't be bothered with any hassle so just eat it.

Feel so grim.

Head off, stop at petrol station for water and take a couple of paracetamol. Can't hardly swallow, throat is so sore and dry.

Head off.

Main road now, not motorway. No hard shoulder.

Sweats, not exercise ones, sick sweats. All day. Urgh.

Back to riding the white line and lorries skimming me all day. Seems to take forever to do 40km.

Plovdiv - eat at McDonald's. Meant to be nice town, don't have time to go look. So not in a touristy mood either.

Back onto road. Hardly any stops today, just keep going. If I stop I reckon I may not start again.

Can't even drink or look around the road is that busy and dangerous.

Amused by all the little mice along the verge. They scurry away and disappear into their holes, which pock mark the length of dirt and grass along side the road, when I come past.

See lots of cabbage and dead animals.

Put lights on, it gets misty, then dark.
See a road from a petrol station into town, instead of the main road. Decide I'll use it when I get there now its dark, it'll be a safer way into Haskovo.

Turns out there's a motel beside the petrol station. Think it's a truckers place. Into the dark yard behind the building. A big dog barks over in  dark corner, rattling the chains it's on each time. Clank up some metal steps in my cycle shoes to find a man in the bar, watching telly, in a plum of cigarette smoke, with the door locked.

Nice man, hardly any English. 35lev for room, bike comes in too!! Save any hassle riding round town in dark.

Throat still sore. Feel wick.

Day 73 - 10.11.14
Pazardzhik to Haskovo, Bulgaria
5h 34min cycling
109.8km
2892 calories
532 metres asc

Cycling out of Sofia - Day 72

Sunday 9th November 2014 - Early start. Up and away before anyone else awake. Posted the keys of the gate in the letter box before leaving.

Rain overnight, so roads wet, therefore I'll be getting wet and dirty this morning!

Sunday morning so the roads were quiet ish. Cycled through the centre of Sofia, hardly any traffic there, so was able to do my sightseeing without any hassle on the way through. Definitely the time to cycle in the city, early Sunday mornings!

Onto main road out the east of Sofia, which then turned into a motorway, the A1/E80. Bicycles allowed though and eventually there was a nice wide hard shoulder to use. Sun coming through too and nice scenery off in the distance.

Come off motorway, thinking it'd be nice to ride on a quieter country road. No. It's not. Too many climbs and pot hole roads... Find my way back to the motorway.

See a sign - 110km to a McDonald's.

Hard shoulder for miiilllleeesss. Hassle free cycling, if a little boring. But some of the views were amazing and the colour of the trees everywhere was lovely.

Also had to go through a tunnel. It was okay though, as there were lights through it and the shoulder also continued through it. Then it was downhill for ages after which was fab, if a little chilly!

Get to mcds and feast.

45km to Plovdiv, can't be arsed riding in dark, so cycle into and stop at Pazardzhik, which I'd only a few km from the McDonald's on the E80.

Find most expensive hotel in city of course. Bargain with the woman on reception and get €20 off the room rate. The water is cold though. The bed is comfy. Not feeling great.

Day 72 - 09.11.14
Sofia to Pazardzhik, Bulgaria
6h 04min cycling
121.6km
3584 calories

936 metres asc

Rest Day Sofia - Day 71

Saturday 8th November 2014 - So I decided I would finally take a rest day, after continuously cycling for the past 17 days.

Lay in, then eventually went out to the supermarket for food.

Fooooooood!!!!

So much nice looking things in the supermarket and they also had an amazing hot food counter. Purchased a big bag of a random assortment of food & drink to feast on.

Giant scallions and cabbages for sale at the stalls on the side of the street.

Ate food. Lay about.

Supermarket again in the evening. Started to rain though. Pack for morning. Nice girl I chatted to from Japan in the dorm. Also shared with an Italian guy, who was constantly on his phone trying to sort out some kind of bank transfer between Italy and Bulgaria. Quite annoying to have to listen to after about the third call....

Day 71 - 08.11.14
Sofia, Bulgaria
Rest Day

Mountain Cycle Into Sofia - Day 70

Friday 7th November 2014 - SUNSHINE AND BLUE SKY!!

Bike miraculously moved upstairs overnight night. Head off.

Round town. Stop at supermarket, don't really have what I want, bread and cereal bars, so buy water, couple of chocolate bars and biscuit things.

Nice view of mountains from the car park. Everyone going in and out knows each, small friendly town.

Stop at petrol station for sandwich. Stared at by a blue eyed dog. It obviously gets share.

Wait for a man running up the main road with two horses to pass, then head off, back onto road 81, which will take me all the way into Sofia.

Know today is mountain day. Have to cross over them to Sofia which is down in the valley on the other side. Could see the mountain in the distance. Looked quite high, hope my legs can manage it after river cycling for so long.

So climb started and it just went on and on, no flat bits. 1000 metres climbed in less the 20km. Good warm up for the day.

At one stage a white van passed me. It stopped in the middle of the road further up. As I approached a man got out. Was shouting something to me, and began opening the back doors. There were two pictures of nude woman on the doors. I smiled and said no thank you and pedalled on, all the while he kept talking to me. Glanced in the front on way past and saw a woman and child, which made me realise he wasn't actually trying to kidnap me. Think he was offering me a lift. He tooted the horn on way past when he got going again.

Thinking about it after, when he first passed me, I'd just taken a photo, holding my phone out. Think maybe he thought I was thumbing a lift!

I'll not bore on about the non stop hill climb, but I eventually got up to the top.

On the way saw some snow still lying on the ground, not enough to make a snowman though. Some nice rivers and waterfalls. Great views through the trees looking back down.

Slightly overdressed for the occasion today too. Should've put on the leggings a week ago and maybe the weather would've changed. It was about 17 degrees and sunny. Although up top was really windy.

Stopped at roadside cafe at top for a cold tin of sprite. Time to descend!!

Was good, apart from the child sized potholes that very quickly approached when travelling at speed. I stayed sensible and didn't go hell for leather like I wanted too.

People selling pots of yellow and orange stuff in jars, honey or jam I guess, on little tables outside their mountain houses.

Thought it'd be downhill all the way to Sofia, but no. Had the rest of the wee mountains on the otherside to go up and down first.

Passed kidnap man and his family coming back in their van, I smiled, they stared with open mouths.

Took forever, but kept going as I knew I was running out of daylight time.

Great views coming down toward the valley where Sofia lies in. Downhill or flat now, brakes are squealing. Hope they've enough pads left for another week or so, as I don't have any spares with me. Back wheel as wobbly as ever too!

Now people have stalls selling vegetables. The biggest cabbages I've ever seen and four foot scallions!!

Road turns into a dual carriageway about 10-15km outside the city. It does not have a hard shoulder.

Bomb on, arrrgghhh.

Through a couple of major junctions, a car goes to pull out in front of me, then he bottles it and stops, right in my line. Thankfully I sensed he was going to hesitate, so was able to stop. I'm doing about 25-30kmph as road is quite flat and safer keeping up with the traffic if I can. Lots of traffic. Getting dark.

Usual night time city entrance. Road is rough and full of holes. Sometimes there aren't even any road markings.

About 2km from where I'm going to, I see the little blue circle of relative safety ahead. A cycle lane!! Totally was not expecting it. Really good one too. Curb between it and the road and markings down the centre.

Got me to the turn off for the 10 Coins Hostel, I had found last night, instead of a hotel.

Nice place in quiet residential area. Welcomed in, courtyard area undercover for bike.

Have a nice shower after a long hot tiring day. Also use the washing machine... clothes haven't seen one in a while, only hotel sinks!!

Looking at route ahead. Can't decide whether to have a rest day here tomorrow, or not. Been on the go for about two weeks I think now. Few big days could see me into Turkey though. Must also go online and get my Turkish Visa sorted too.

Day 70 - 07.11.14
Berkovitsa to Sofia, Bulgaria
5h 27min cycling
82.5km
3268 calories
1792 metres asc

Bye Bye Danube - Day 69

Thursday 6th November 2014 - NEED. FOOD.

Also need to get out of this dump of a hotel and escape from Grim City.

Went out on balcony to see what kind of a day it was. Misty, surprise surprise. Could hardly see river and it was only a hundred or so metres away.

Last time I'll see the Danube, as I'm now heading inland. It's amazing to think of the width it was when I first crossed it in Germany, to how big it is now. I wonder if I'd thrown a stick in at Germany, would it be here now or already away past?! What's that game called, 'Poo Sticks' is it??!

Didn't want to step out too far either, as the balcony floor looked a bit dodgy and the railings were missing from the balcony beside mine.

Cold too. First day I've worn my leggings. Might also stop the looks of horror I get from the locals wrapped up in their winter woolies.

So, going to try and make Berkovitsa today. It's about 20km after Montana, where I wanted to be yesterday.

Got the time thing sorted, so was out the door at 9.30am.

First stop, petrol station for food. Ham, cheese and olive (?!) sandwich and restock the chocolate pocket of my bags.

Off to do battle with the Bulgarian traffic, again. First up though, a lovely climb out of town on cobblestones, or square sets. They were damp and off camber, so a tad slippy.

At the top it was still pretty misty, so chose to wear my high vis vest today. Safety first!

Then it was a straight road (road 81) for 50km or so. Rolling hills, across massive fields. A few villages off to right or left.

Thankfully it was wider than yesterday, so felt a little more comfortable with the traffic passing.

Played dodge the dead animal all day. Mainly dogs, a few cats, birds and mice. In varying states of decomposition. From freshly dead, bright red guts splattered over the road, to bloated, to black and rancid smelling, to a vague flattened animal shape of fur imprinted on the tarmac, to bones. Lovely.

Actually had to stop dead in my tracks today on the road, as there was a large dead dog in my path and cars passing me, so couldn't go round it until the road was clear. Horrid. Took a while for the putrid smell to vacate my nostrils afterwards.

Saw the sheep mowing a local football pitch. A few horse and carts too. Also a crashed lorry (I will admit I did smile a little bit at that after how they've tormented me), and a dog sitting in the middle of the road - no wonder they get squished. Say hello when I pass the ladies 'working' in the lay-bys.

At Montana some roadworks made the decision of not stopping for me.

Did pull into another petrol station for another sandwich though. Saw a weird insect on the wall, took a photo. Then 20km to Berkovitsa.

Sun trying to come through, to reveal some big mountains lurking in the mist and clouds around me.

Had to stop at a level crossing at one point. The train that came was ancient and probably only doing the same speed as me on a bike!

Into town, found the hotel. Hotel Vodenitsata. Woman didn't speak any English, so phoned her daughter and I spoke to her to book in. Only 30Lev about £12 for a massive room. Balcony, non falling apart this time, looking over a river and the town, with the mountains in the background. Plus, another bath!!

Hopefully Sofia tomorrow..... I can just imagine the traffic to come!!

Day 69 - 06.11.14
Lom to Berkovitsa, Bulgaria
4h 26min cycling
74.8km
2127 calories
825 metres asc

Eurovelo Vidin Lorries Lom - Day 68

Wednesday 5th November 2014 - Up, breakfast, round the corner to cash machine, pay (£24 for dinner b&b), pack bike and go.

Had looked at map and there only seemed to be a main road out of town the way I was going. Unsure of how main it would be and whether bicycles were allowed.

Big wide road out of town, no markings, debris, dust and and old tyre lying in middle of road.

Up round a flyover and thought it'd be onto a motorway, but saw horse poo on the road and a herd of goats eating the bushes beside a bus stop, so reckoned I'd be okay!

Road 1 out of Vidin. Bit of a climb. Trucks flying past. Riding the white line, or pulling off into the hedge when I hear them coming.

Same usual story of the past few days. They really don't slow down at all. If there is traffic coming the opposite way, they'll blast the horn for me to get out of the way, as they aren't gonna use their brakes.

It's a slow, draining progress.

Concentrate on the road so I don't go into a pot hole or off the cracked tarmac edge. Listen for what's coming behind me. Watch for bends. Pedal fast round the right hand bends, as if a lorry comes round one behind me I'm squished. Watch the traffic coming toward me as they'll overtake right in my path too. Also if I hear something come from behind me and see traffic coming toward me, its time to jump in the hedge. Its also time to jump in the hedge if there are two or three lorries coming up behind me. Don't have time to see any scenery!

It's also misty again, been like this for past couple of weeks now, bar a day or two, it makes everything dull and grey. I'm sure the views are amazing in the sunshine though.

It's also cold. Think I'll have to put leggings on tomorrow.

Stop after going through a village of old rundown brick and wood houses. A petrol station on the hill. Watch the trucks fly by. See two horses and carts going my way, quickly get back on bike to tail them.

Catch them up, but pass them as its a downhill part. Surprised they haven't been milled by the lorries.

Left turn toward Lom, there's a Eurovelo sign saying 22km to Lom. Hoping it's not a dirt path.

Road is ok, bit rough to start, then smooth. But the trucks are clearly following me. It's a long cold testing cycle.

Stop after a while and roll into a field for a break, eat the only food I've left (croissant and a snickers bar). Look at the Danube in the misty distance. It's actually really quiet and peaceful between the thundering passing trucks.

Realise I'm not going to make it to Montana today before dark and this is not a road to cycle in the dark either.

Next town Lom, I'll stay there I decide.

Coming into town, more shack houses, think it's not going to have a hotel, like all the rest of the town villages I've gone through today. My map has no information on it other than roads, even then it doesn't even have half the roads on it either.

Anyway, continue on. Right turn into pedestrian centre. Grim. Town.

Crumbling buildings, grey, just a sad place. Ask man and woman where the hotel is and they point back then right.

Cycle about the back streets, urgh grim grim grim.

Back to the main road I was on. See two touring cyclists coming the other way into town. They stop, I cross the road and we have a chat. They're going the way I came and started in Estonia.

It's now I realise I've been running an hour behind again. So it's actually 4.30pm and my watch says 3.30pm. Confusion. I must've crossed a time zone somewhere, must google it!!

Anyway, I ask a taxi driver for hotel. Again with the straight and right directions. So ride around a bit and eventually find it tucked down a side street beside river. It is seedy and rundown. Woman is fierce too.

Take the room with a bath. A BATH!!!!! Same price as last nights hotel. Different end of scale. I'm paying for the bath though as I'm frozen. Can't feel feet this evening again!

No food, not going out into grim-town looking for any. So have a hot bath and eat my only food - a packet of strawberry polo mints.

Think tomorrow has got to be an early start if I'm to get anywhere soon.

Must change watch!

Soooo very hungry.....dreaming of fish suppers, Chinese takeaways, pizza....

Day 68 - 05.11.14
Vidin to Lom, Bulgaria
3h 05min cycling
59.7km
1663 calories
470 metres asc

Cycling into Bulgaria from Serbia - Day 67

Tuesday 4th November 2014 - Breakfast is rubbish, hardly anything left and its only 8am, breakfast is until 9.30am.

Shower is verging on the cold.

Hairdryer, ahhhhh heat!!!!!

Road out of town. Lorries, cars, busy.

Look on map for next town or village the road goes through, at each one the traffic slows for a bit so it's not quite so mental.

Eurovelo route at 30km....bad idea. Path goes along river bank and after the big floods they had earlier this year, the path is either muddy, sandy or covered in wood. Half way along it, so keep ploughing on. At parts I felt like I was an explorer, travelling through a jungle no one has ever been in.

Time is ticking by.

Through a village of crumbling houses. Next part again looks bad, go back to the road.

Cut off to a smaller road to get into Negotin. See some corn stacks. A couple of dog chases.

Into Negotin, stop for coffee, feet getting cold. 18km to border, 2.30pm.

Get there, Serbian border woman couldn't believe where I cycled from!

Short cycle, then Bulgaria border. After the border through a village of really old tumbling down houses. Road is just a pot hole bumpy dusty gravel mess. Definitely not an option of staying here tonight like I had thought.

25km to Vidin 3.30pm.

5km or so later, sign says 24km to Vidin, huh?!

Sun sets, dusk, twilight, darkness.

Last few km in darkness into town of Vidin.

Can't see any lights in distance, then realise when I'm cycling into the town that there are street lights but they are not on.

Roads are all dug up, cars go slow on them thankfully. Imagine if there were no street lights in Belfast, at night, with no big bright shop lights. It makes it kinda crazy on the roads. No one obeying the one way signs or anything. People walking about and other cyclist with no lights. Crazy time.

Round town, up one way streets, just doing what everyone else seems to do. Find hotel hidden down a side steet. Man outside when I stop selling his drawings. He says he's an artist. Tell him I have no money - as is usual for me entering a new country!

Nice hotel, heating on full blast in room and go down for food. Have chicken stew that comes served in a clay pot. I eat it all, along with chips with white cheese and a Bulgarian beer. Hot shower and sleep.

Day 67 - 04.11.14
Kladovo, Serbia to Vidin, Bulgaria
5h 39min cycling
103.9km
2878 calories
750 metres asc

Cycle to Decebalus Rock Sculpture - Day 66

Monday 3rd November 2014 - Up and walked through the quiet, empty, dark corridors, through the dark, empty big lobby, down two flights of stairs to the restaurant for breakfast. One light on and one table set up for me!

Lady comes out and asks what I want to drink and says breakfast is an omelette!

She goes away, switching a couple of lights and the radio on before leaving.

I listen to Serbian radio while I wait. Alone.

Anyway, I leave pretty soon after. I also unpack my tent outside and reroll it. I've been meaning to do it since that day before Budapest when I shoved it all back in after looking for my Garmin. Smells a bit damp, so gave it a good shake out and let the air get round it before packing it up. Don't think it'll be used again this trip unfortunately.

Down the steep hill I came up last night. Soooo cooooold.

Stop in town at a shop for food and some toothpaste. I ran out two days ago and keep forgetting to buy some.

Hair brush broke this morning too. But it'll be okayish for another few days before I think it'll fall apart.

On out along road, which is a lot quieter today.

Last few tunnels to go through,T4 is 371 metres long, arrrgghhh. Bomb on through after listening if anything was coming. Felt like floating in the middle when you can't see anything but blackness and you keep pedalling!

Great views of the amazing gorge. Climb from the river right up to the top.

Cliffs are so high, lorries are just little specks on other side road.

Climb climb climb.

See Decebalus big bake in the rock.

The rock sculpture of Decebalus is a 40-m high carving in rock of the face of Decebalus, the last king of Dacia, who fought against the Roman emperors Domitian and Trajan to preserve the independence of his country, which corresponded to modern Romania. The sculpture is on a rocky outcrop on the river Danube, at the Iron Gates, which form the border between Romania and Serbia. It is located near the city of Orşova in Romania. It is the tallest rock sculpture in Europe.

More climbing.

See a dead bird on the road with amazing bright blue feathers.

Then a very long flattish pedal round to the iron gates dam. It is the largest dam on the Danube river and one of the largest hydro power plants in Europe.

Decision time - Romania or not. You cross the Dam for the Romanian border.

Not.

Decide against following Danube right to Black Sea and then down the coast to Turkey. I'll be going south and east across Bulgaria instead, direct to the Turkish border.

Now 2pm, not enough time to do 65km to Negotin.

Cold, always have cold feet every afternoon last couple weeks.

Into Kladovo.

Free WiFi in town, so look for hotels online.

See a hostel, cycle round to it and it's a shop?

Cheaper hotel, cycle round to it and it's closed.

Of course though the expensive hotel is open!

Don't care, its warm inside.

Stick the heating on full blast and go to shop, buy bread, salami and cheese.

Never any kettles in these hotels, so ask if I can get one for my room at reception. No, but she sends up a cup of hot water haha!!

Do some clothes washing in the sink with the complimentary shower gel.

Stuff my face, hot shower, Serbian music channel, wait to make sure my clothes are drying, sleep.

Day 66 - 03.11.14
Donji Milanovac to Kladovo Serbia
3h 38min cycling
65.3km
1762 calories
532 metres asc

Cycling Through the 'Iron Gates' in Serbia - Day 65

Sunday 2nd November 2014 - Couldn't leave until after 10am, as no one here before that to unlock bike from the garage.

Sun out for the first time in a week or so, really nice to see.

Shops here are all open on Sunday as well, bonus!! Through Veliko Gradiste and it's a hive of activity.

Through the countryside, everyone out collecting in the corn or chopping wood for the winter.

Also, last couple of days keep seeing memorial plaques on the side of the road for people, who I presume, have died in that spot. They all have a photo of the person on them with their name and dates. Lots and lots of them too.

Pass through Golubac Fortress. They seem to be restoring parts of it. Round the corner, then it's 50km or so down the edge of the gorge along the river. Romania is on the opposite side.

The 'Iron Gates' as it's known, where the Danube flows through the gorge between Carpathian Mountains and the Balkans, along the border between Serbia and Romania.

Lots of old style haystacks.

This road also has 21 tunnels along it. Some are just short and you can see through them. There are a couple of longer ones, number 21, 20, an 14 being most memorable. Number 14 tunnel was 256 metres long with a bend in the middle.

It's pretty dark in a long tunnel with a bend in the middle. For these longer ones I'd wait to listen for traffic, then go for it. Pedal pedal pedal, it's also windy through them, so you can't hear if anything is coming behind you. They also leak, so you get dripped on and have to ride through puddles.

I don't play the 'hold your breath through the tunnel' game, but it's a bit of excitement for the day!

Stop at a picnic table at one stage and someone had forgotten to lift their collection of skulls off the table!! Weird.

Sun out, but this side was the shady side of river. I guess it was better though as more likely to be seen by drivers.

Down to the historical site Lepinski Vir. Not sure if it was open or not. Then a rough stoney path with big rocks, then climb climb climb back up. Grrrrrr.

Cold numb feet.

Nice view of the sun setting over the hills, if you looked past the mounds and mounds of rubbish dumped on the side of the road.

Coming into Donji Milanovac I saw four mountainbikers coming the opposite way. First cyclists I've seen in days.

Stock up with food supplies at the petrol station, then up another steep hill to Hotel Lepenski Vir about 4.30pm.

Darkness - outside and inside.

Tried the door, it was open, walked into a pitch black large lobby area.

One light on at reception desk. A guy comes out from the back room. €33 for room & breakfast, arrrgghhh!!

Not going to go back down the hill to look elsewhere in town, far too cold.

Leave bike in foyer.

Really dated hotel. No hot water, or heating in room. Bathroom and towels are dirty. Metal fixtures in bathroom going green. No WiFi. There is a balcony that looks out over the Danube, so that should be a good view in the morning.

Complete rip off. Wouldn't stay here if I wasn't so cold and it wasn't already dark.

Breakfast better be good.

Spend the evening listening to some Serbian chat programme whilst writing up last few days.

Also, trying to plan out next few days. The Eurovelo 6 route follows the Danube through Romania to the Black Sea. So I could go that way, then down the Black Sea coast through Bulgaria into Turkey.

Or, just go more directly, from Vidin down to Sofia in Bulgaria and across the country to Turkey. More direct but a mountain range to cross. It was also snowing in Sofia last week, so obviously would've been up in the mountains too.

Hmmmmm......

Day 65 - 02.11.14
Srebrno Jezero to Donji Milanovac, Serbia
10.30am to 4.30pm
4h 33min cycling
81.6km
2302 calories
753 metres asc

Catching a Serbian Ferry - Day 64

Saturday 1st November 2014 - Great nights sleep. So quiet. Lovely morning looking out at the river. Another feast for breakfast. Great place, nice and relaxing and the owners are really friendly. Definitely the place to stay after making it out of Belgrade.

Can't believe it's the first of November!

Packed up (nearly had a little furry passenger with me too) and left around 11am.

Took the cycle path. Nice to have no traffic to deal with. Great being back in the countryside.

But eventually back onto the road. Quiet enough though now. Pass an area of sand dunes, Deliblatska Peščara. Google it, pretty interesting.

Looked at watch, as was getting a 2pm ferry across river from Banatska Palanka to Ram. Shit, where does the time go? Had to put the foot down for last 15km to get there on time.

Get there with 5 minutes to spare. Theres a drunk man waiting for the ferry stumbling around and falling over his bag. Resident dogs keep me amused. Start to get cold. See a sign the next ferry is at 3pm. Urgh.

Cold.

Ferry turns up, but then the guys take a half hour break. Hurry up, I'm freezing to death here.

Get over to the other side and it's nearly 4pm. Good view of the castle in Ram coming into shore.

Shop for supplies.

Wee climb up out of village, good views at top, then 20km to Srebrno Jezero.

Along the river with Romanian hills on the other side.

Getting dark, lots of hotel places and people fishing and yachts. Seems to be a resort type place. Picked one with a restaurant. 1600 Dinar for a room, about £10.

Soup and omelette, was waiting for me at a table, after I put my things in room and got changed. Gradually warm up again.

Day 64 - 01.11.14
Kovin to Srebrno Jezero, Serbia
11am to 4.30pm
3h 18min cycling
57.7km
1410 calories
266 metres asc

Belgrade Bicycle Battle - Day 63

Friday 31 October 2014 - Waking up in a 10 bed dorm, with 9 guys. Farting is the wake up call this morning!

Go to supermarket for breakfast. Kinda putting off leaving, eventually go at about 12.30pm ish.

Awful coming out of Belgrade. Just horrendous.

Ride across city. Then have to cross a bridge. Its a four lane road. No hard shoulder. Basically a motorway.

Whilst looking up at this bridge, another cyclist comes up beside me. He doesn't speak much English but says its okay to ride over it and to follow him.

Up we go, him in front on his road bike. It is just like riding on a motorway. Think it was bit safer though the two of us.

He left me just after and said to stay on road until Pancevo. Wasn't too bad after, used the bus lane and only one bus passed me. But was basically still a motorway for 20km.

Stop in an old dissued service station for a break, as the bus lane stopped and had to ride on edge/white line for a while with no hard shoulder.

Concentration levels 1000%.

Finally come off it, back to going through wee villages and farm land.

Just stayed on the road when I saw Eurovelo 6 signs directing toward the usual path on top of the bank.

Stopped at shop in one village. Sometimes it's hard to know if it is a shop, if it's actually open and what exactly it sells. I found the food shop. Joined by a small dog and a puppy while I snacked.

Last few km went up onto the EV main route on the bank. Quite nice
compact mud track which was nice to ride on. Nice and calm and peaceful too after this mornings mayhem.

Cold feet.

Make it to Dunavski Plicak Guest House just as it was getting dark. Right on the bank of the river. Lovely spot. Had my first home cooked meal. It was amazingly good. Soup to start and goulash with homemade spaghetti. Sooo good!!

Day 63 - 31.10.14
Belgrade to Kovin, Serbia
12.30pm to 4.30pm
3h 07min cycling
62km
1612 calories
265 metres asc

Eurovelo Horror Novi Sad to Belgrade - Day 62

Thursday 30th October 2014 - Locked in hostel as wasn't given key and don't know code. Wait until someone arrives in at 8am to the desk, then go for breakfast at McDonald's round the corner.

Leave about 10.30 or 11am, seems to be my set leaving time, no matter how early I get up!!

Really long hill climb on the road out of Novi Sad. No room on edge, its busy. I do 100 and 200 metre hill sprints for about 10km, ducking into the hedge each time I hear a truck coming up behind me. No one slows down, or waits if there's traffic coming the opposite way, so I reckon it's safer just to get off the road, rather than continually being skimmed past.

See a Serbian numberplate in the middle of the road. Be a good souvenir, if it wasn't a death trap to try and collect it.

Eventually left turn off the bad busy road, to a nice country road. Can't believe that main road is the actual Eurovelo 6 route.

Stop at Beska at a shop, it has no electricity, can hardly see when I go in it's so dark. Girl writes everything into a book and adds it up by calculator!

On for a long stretch of straight flat country roads. For AGES.

Lots of traffic now, but it's just tractors, some of which I overtake!

Dogs.

Onto a road which is just one lane strip of tarmac and the other half is gravel. Good way to save money I guess. Play chicken with upcoming cars, then swerve onto gravel to let them pass.

Up to Belgrade with the roads getting busier.

At Batajnica it then really starts to get busy with non stop traffic, no one has any time, all still in a rush, can't slow down, or wait to pass.

Really busy then road diversion.

Takes me past massive old tower blocks of flats. See two cars crash into each other. One car crossed in front of the other and bang! Could see it happening before it did. Took a sneaky photo.

Round the side of a busy two lane road the opposite way. There was a footpath, then it disappeared. Waited for break in traffic to get round the corner onto where the footpath started again.

Find another road that should take me into where the other one would have. More heavy traffic. Bumper to bumper in both directions. Stop start sprinting to keep up with traffic and hold my place.

Go left after a few kms, down some side streets and it takes me straight to river, aahhhh.

Along river on cycle path, past the floating bars and hostels.

Dark now, use the footpath over Brankos Bridge into Belgrade city centre. Nice view of the old town and city lights.

Lots of traffic, push bike on pavement through a few streets. Another car crash, big hold up, I just push past.

Find route through city streets to the hostel.

Room is in another building. So have to go out onto street and into building next door to the main hostel. I can't remember how to get out again from my room. I can cycle myself across Europe, but can't remember if I came in from upstairs or downstairs haha!! These big old buildings are like a maze, or a rabbit warren inside.

Cool hostel (Hedonists Hostel) with an outdoor common area, kitchen and dining room. Lots of people, USA, Belgium, Poland, Aussie, French, chat for while in the kitchen with everyone before most of them head out for a pub crawl.

I have a shower and go to bed. Hungry.

Day 62 - 30.10.14
Novi Sad to Belgrade, Serbia
11am to 4.30pm
5h 22min cycling
96.3km
2739 calories
824 metres asc

Cycling Into Serbia - Day 61

Wednesday 29th October 2014 - Feel all shaky this morning. Think it may be because I didn't have any food for my usual 2am snack time.

Go down for breakfast, don't eat much. Get charged for a second cup of coffee! Give the girl a good tip anyway, as she was really nice and very helpful, reading the menu and all last night.

Stop at shop on way out of town for munchie supplies. Woman doing her shopping gave me a bun!

Also stop at a chemist to see if I can get an inhaler, as the cold air is cutting me. €11 or 80 Kuna, hmmm she took ages looking it up in her book and computer. Don't buy it.

Sunny day and more hills.

Cross border into Serbia. Again uneventful. First village is Nestin.

Stay on the same road all day. Nice quiet country road to begin with.

Pass lots of little villages of farmhouses. See a man standing in a ploughed field. Then he starts running and jumping about. Think he's chasing a mouse!

See a cat curled up on top of a dogs back. At least the dog isn't likely to chase me. Good cat.

Lots of farms, fields and mountains in the hazy distance.

Get a few fleeting glimpses of the river every so often.

Road now begins to get busier at Beocin.

Trucks.

Find a cycle/dirt path that goes under Liberty Bridge, which gets me off the road. Leads on round the river on a quiet road with quite nice riverside houses. See an air plane parked on the water.

Castle comes into view then cycle round under it and cross Varadin Bridge into city centre.

Centre is nice, church with colourful spire and big buildings round the square.

Find hostel after first walking into a restaurant, a travel agency and right into someones house!! All are in the same building. 1400 Serbian Dinar for the night.

Need money as again into a new country with no money. First bank I go into I wait for ages, then the grumpy counter woman points me to another desk - with no one at it. Wait few minutes, another lady comes, types on her computer, ignores me. I walk out.

Find the next bank, change some Euros, but they won't change my Hungarian money.

Day 61 - 29.10.14
Ilok, Croatia to Novi Sad, Serbia
11am to 4pm
3h 00min cycling
48.5km
1375 calories
550 metres asc

A Peachy Pear in Vukovar - Day 60

Tuesday 28th October 2014 - Great sleep and up for a great breakfast. Lots of other people staying. Had a chat with owner as I was packing up to leave. She was been to Belfast with her previous job, doing cross community work in relation to Serb/Croats. Definitely recommend this place to stay when in Osijek.

Cold, but sunny morning. Out along road from Osijek.

Road road road.

Traffic traffic traffic.

Run off the road by a lorry.

Arrive into Vukovar. War torn buildings and the famous water tower, which has been left as a memorial.

Looking at my map in town and an old man cycles up to me asking if I speak German. Nope, but he understands where I'm from and going too. He cycles off. Comes back a minute or two later and gives me a pear he just bought for me. So nice!!

My feet are cold. Pedal on and on, on the road.

Nowhere really to stop, as just field right up to the roadside. So just stopped on the side of road, standing in a field, to eat my pear with the trucks and cars whizzing by!

More rolling hills, then big dips into villages and climbs back out. Hills in Croatia are signposted and seem to be either 6%, 8%, or 11% gradient up.

Dogs chasing me.

In Ilok stop at a bakery and get a slice of pizza type stuff. It's warm.

Find a guest house. Really nice place, Villa Iva. Lovely warm room. Girl reads out the whole menu to me as it's in Croatian. Just decide I want more pizza, but have a Croatian beer, in their restaurant.

Really cold outside.

Heater on in room at 30 degrees, ahhh...

Day 60 - 28.10.14
Osijek to Ilok, Croatia
10.30am to 4.30pm
4h 24min cycling
80.1km
2167 calories
507 metres asc

Cycling Into Croatia - Day 59

Monday 27th October 2014 - Cold misty morning, stopped at a small shop for food. Lots of pastries, not sure what they all were, even though the lady tried explaining in Hungarian. Just got a selection bag. She was laughing at me, it was funny. They were good though. Cheese, coconut, chocolate, chicken pastry, yum!

Out of town along river. Right turn a km or two later and see a horse and cart coming down the street toward me.

Saw an EuroVelo sign, gravel path, so stayed on road. Through several small villages. All the same, wide street lined with mostly one storey brick houses.

After a while, ride up onto the EV path, which is now smooth tarmac. The mist was swirling up off the ground in the sun which looked cool.

Got to where there was a ferry crossing. Next boat wasn't until another hour, so kept going on to Dunafalva.

Loads of cats about. Just see two wee ears above the grass they hide in. Played spot the cat for a few miles.

So all day yesterday there were signs along the road for miles and miles warning of deer. Now, on the cycle path, there aren't any signs. Then what do I see...a squished deer, oh dear!!

Got the ferry at the next crossing to Mohács.

Short cycle to the border with Croatia. At Udvar stopped at the petrol station to try and use up some of my money. Lots and lots of trucks stopped here.

Still have loads of HUF and no Luna.

Cross border. Quite uneventful.

First thing that greats me is a sign for a hill at 8%.

Stick to roads as 2pm and 60km to Osijek...

Lots of lorries going past, I get sucked in and blown about. Helmet blows off at one stage!

Opt for longer route on quieter country (bumpy) roads.

Hilllssss. Stop to move chain down to middle ring, as gears not working and have been in big chainring for last few weeks. A dog sits down and barks at me from the other side of the road while I look for a stick and then poke the chain off. Shut up!

Slow up, down hill fast and fun.

Metal balls on poles in each town, water towers, are good as you can see them in the distance and know where the next village is.

Through Podolje, K. Vinogradi, Grabovac, Lug, Bilje, to Osijek.

Race against daylight, whilst pedalling I spend some time trying to figure out currency exchange rates in my head. Puts in quite a bit of time!!

Bilje, some road works. Luckily the last 5km is a cycle path and I'm on time to see the sun setting over Osijek.

Into the old town to a guest house. Big wooden door on the side of street which is closed. No bell, no lights, argh ..... look on map for other places to stay. Getting really cold now.

Decide to just try the door handle before I cycle off.

Ah ha, it opens into a courtyard, with a staircase up to reception. B&B 300 Kuna. Nice!

No money so go to bank machine. Always entering new countries with no money! Now have a mixture of Pounds, Euros, Swiss Francs, Hungarian Forints and now Croatian Kuna!

Go out to town for food, into a bar restaurant place round the corner, look at menu, decide I want pizza, they don't do pizza, leave. Too cold to walk anywhere. Bakery on the corner, so get two big slices of pizza for £1.50. Have them with some 'English breakfast tea' in guest house, Two cups, mmm tea, warms me up, nice!!

Really warm comfy bed too! Great guest house - Maksimilian Guest House it's called.

Day 59 - 27.10.14
Baja, Hungary to Osijek, Croatia
10.30am to 4.30pm
5h 10min cycling
101.4km
2723 calories
472 metres asc

Cycling Down Through Hungary - Day 58

Sunday 26th October 2014 - Up early, misty cool morning. Reckon on leaving about 9.30am. Have shower, pack up and its 10.30am. Urgh, where does the time go in the morning.

Shoes and socks thoroughly dried out overnight, so feet not too cold this morning.

Back onto the road. Bit of sun trying to peek through. Mist all around in the distance.

Basically stayed on road 51 for most of the day, through Dunavecse, Solt, Kalocsa to Baja.

Need food. Only had a snickers and packet of chocolate biscuits for tea last night and a cereal bar this morning.

First town shops are all closed. Oh yeah, it's Sunday. Petrol stations are open, so buy a mars, bounty, kitkat, peanuts and a bag of fruit and nut mix.

Find the Eurovelo sign just beside the road after Solt and chance it. Nice smooth tarmac running parallel to the road. Great.

Through a couple of villages. Single storey houses along the roads, all with a yard or garden. Most with dogs in them. Shops all closed.

EV route then goes off back toward the river. I don't. Stay on road as it's straight and direct and I don't know what the EV route will be like. Don't want more gravel or massive detour.

Road is mainly flat and very long. Mostly pretty decent, but then there are sections that are really bumpy and full of holes. Concentration levels high to avoid the pot holes and the cars. Although, not sure if it is because it's a Sunday, but traffic isn't actually too busy. Most people give me plenty of room when passing too.

The speed the cars go on the badly surfaced parts of road, I think being a car mechanic in Hungary would be a good job to do, I'm sure they have plenty of work fixing suspension.

Also there are loads of Suzuki Swift cars here, I think they're built in Hungary. It was the first car I bought, with my student loan whilst at uni, so it's funny to see so many of them here.

There are also a lot of signs for deer every km or so. For miles and miles. Have no eye deer where they'd be living though, as it's all open flat farmland. Saw a fox run across the field beside me at one stage. It was doing about 25kmph. Not much other wildlife about.

100km of straight flat road, with only the odd town or bend. Black clouds following me, but it stays dry. Long day.

See some paprika factories and lots of it hanging up drying around houses. They like their paprika here.

Into Baja. Some great looking buildings. As I had stopped, taking photos and looking at map, a girl with a baby on her back approached me.

She asked if she could help. I said I was either going to the hotel or the camping. She said the camping was open. Decision made. Chatted with her, really nice girl with brilliant English. Said she has a few friends in Istanbul as well she could put me in contact with if I needed. She also offered to show me where the campsite was and if I was staying to meet for lunch tomorrow. I declined, as didn't want to put her out of her way tonight and I need an early start tomorrow, but it was nice of her.

Got her email address, but since I've been blocked out of my emails, for logging in from so many different countries, I'm not sure I'll be able to contact her before (if) I get there.

Camping was 1800HUF, a room was 3300HUF. Worked out about £8 for sleeping indoors, in the warm.

Worryingly there is only one clean sheet for the bed. The pillow case and duvet cover are already on them. I wonder how long they've been on for? Think I'll use a sheet from the other beds to protect me from the duvet and one to go over the pillow!

Went out to the restaurant next door. Had a slap up meal of duck, cabbage, potatoes, salad, beer and coffee for a tenner. Fab!!

I also realised, two days later, that the clocks went back. Coming out of Budapest I saw a clock on the street and it was a hour behind. Just thought it was an old clock. Then this morning, I couldn't believe it took me over an hour to get ready. Plus I thought it was bright really early this morning as well.

My watch was still on old time, but my phone had changed by itself when on WiFi in Budapest. Haha, took a while, but I figured it out!

The only important times of each day for me though are sunrise and sunset - time to go and time to stop.

Day 58 - 26.10.14
Szalkszentmárton to Baja, Hungary
9.30am to 4.30pm
4h 51min cycling
102.2km
2749 calories
376 metres asc

Hungry In Hungary - Day 57

Saturday 25th October 2014 - Bed about 1.30am, wake at 5.30am, up at 7am, away at 11am.

From here on now is like cycling into the unknown. Not sure of route, signs seem to be sparse, conditions of path varies and my maps I've downloaded don't really have much information on them (shops, hostels, hotels, bakeries, landmarks etc) like in the previous countries.

Plus, I've been to most countries or cities I've passed through, the next few I haven't and I have no knowledge of the language either. Different money too, proper border crossings and need a visa for Turkey.

Fun times ahead.

Not too bad cycling out of the city. Along the waterfront to the end of the cycle path, then along beside a road on a well marked cycle lane.

It sometimes then ends, cycle on the road, then it begins again.

McDonalds stop in town of highrise tower blocks. I'm now on the large island in the middle of the Danube. Banked up sides enclosing a vast area of flat farmland.

No signs, so just stayed on roads. Really straight roads.

Crossed the bridge in a nice town called Ráckeve.

Then down along bank of the river for a while, on a horrendous bumpy pot holed road. The whole way along this there are lots and lots of fishing platforms on the edge.

The horrendous road then turns into a muddy dirt track. I am now being held up by a car tentatively making its way down it.

Pass a house with 3 Labrador dogs pulling the feathers out of a freshly caught hen. When I stop to look, the dogs look up at me, the hen makes a run for it (I thought it was already dead), then the dogs chase after it, resulting in mad squawking from the bushes. Poor hen.

Saw a Eurovelo sign on a bank....with a gravel path. N. O.

Went on the road. Just kept turning the pedals round and round and round.

5.30pm, sun setting. Looking at map and I happened to be stopped beside a motel on the opposite side of road.

Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, so to speak, I went over to it.

Walked in and there's a big family dinner party going on. No one else in the restaurant.

5500 HUF, about £14, for a room in  Szalki Fogadó Motel, just outside Szalkszentmárton. Basic, but warm with hot water and a very comfy bed.

Snickers and some mini chocolate biscuits for tea.

Day 57 - 25.10.14
Budapest to Szalkszentmárton, Hungary
11am to 5.30pm
4h 12min cycling
76.8km
1935 calories
490 metres asc

Into Budapest - Day 56

Friday 24th October 2014 - Great buffet breakfast. Even had crispy proper bacon. First bacon butty since leaving, yum. All that was missing was a proper big mug of tea.

Packing up and the hotel man that unlocked the garage, so I could get my bike out, was laughing at me when he asked where I had cycled from and where I was going. He also told me to put a coat on, as it was too cold to cycle without one.

Quick stop at the Tourist Info centre, checked if it was all on road to Budapest. Girl gave me detailed information of where the road bits were and were the cycle paths started and ended. Walked out and promptly forget it all.

Anyway, first bit was back onto the road from last night. 8km in and the rain started. Just put on rain jacket, didn't bother with trousers.

Found cycle path, bumpy with broken tarmac and the trees roots. Covered in leaves and mud too. Nothing is going to be clean after today again.

Had to stop a few times to remove twigs and leaves caught up in the gears.

Wet, cold feet, rain pouring off helmet. Hard to look at map on phone in the rain too, as the touchscreen goes a wee bit mad with the raindrops hitting it.

EV6 signage very bad. Some really dodgy paths into Budapest as well. Pot holes, broken tarmac and a muddy forest section kept things interesting.

Into the city and the paths start to get better. Still had to do a bit of guess work though, as it wound its way through the streets. Not really much fun in the rain. Starting to get really cold now too.

Pass a sculpture of several people holding umbrellas, very fitting for today!

Through a tram stop, guards stopped me and told me to get off and walk the bike through. Feet too cold, can't walk right, kind of like after when you've had pins and needles in your feet, when the feeling is coming back to them. Must've looked like a weirdo, didn't care though, just kept thinking of getting to a warm hostel.

Round a corner and see the city in the distance.

Down to opposite the parliament building, Hungarys largest building, built in a neogothic style. Cycle diversion. Arrgggghhhh.......too cold for this.

Up to the Chain bridge, few quick snaps and across it. First permanent bridge in Budapest, built in 1849. Stayed on a main road for a bit. Roads through Budapest are mental. 4 lanes of traffic and tram line in the middle. Pot holes and puddles. Fast cars. People. Traffic lights. Big city. Don't know where I am, or going. Cold.

Find the hostel, check in, wheel the bike through inside, to the back garage.

Soaked through. Enjoy a really hot shower.

Meet up with my friend Alex, who I met snowboarding in Bulgaria earlier this year, for dinner and drinks. First person I know that I've seen in 55 days. Enjoyed a big plate of beef stew and dumplings and a couple of drinks at a quirky bar called Szimpla Kert, a ruin bar. Good nights craic.

Cold night out though.

Day 56 - 24.10.14
Visegrad to Budapest, Hungary
11am to 4.30pm
3h 02min cycling
48.5km
1190 calories
487 metres asc

Eurovelo 6 Komarno to Visegrad, Hungary - Day 55

Thursday 23rd October 2014 - Survived a windy cold wet night, just! Still cold. Up about 8.30am, pack everything up, too cold to hang about.

Out of campsite and round to the hotel to hand in the keys. Come out to cycle off and realise I don't have my Garmin cycle computer. Hmmm

Last I saw it was in my tent last night. End up unpacking my tent at the hotel entrance, to see if its in the inner section. No it's not.

Look in my bags again, then have to go in to ask for the keys, to go back and look in the campsite. This took ages as the lady didn't understand and phoned someone who spoke English to come to the reception.

Good bye nice early start.

Back in to where I had tent up, looked around, looked in toilet block. Nothing to be found. The man that came with me looked really upset too lol.

Anyway, I knew if it wasn't left there it'd be hiding in my stuff somewhere. Just annoyed I wouldn't be able to records the days cycle.

10.30am finally go.

100 metres down the road stop again. Unpack my sleeping bag on the pavement, clunck, out it drops. Yey!!!!

Celebrate by getting a hot slice of pizza thing from Lidl on way out of town. I also made the fizzy water mistake again, sigh.

Hands and feet still cold.

Round the town, nice old buildings and across the bridge.

Nice smooth new tarmac for a few kms. Also new shelters and bike racks and seating too. The plastic was even still on one of the benches. They are definitely upgrading the tracks.

Didn't last though. Back to the gravel marble track again. Gravel gravel gravel. I really can't believe someone would think and decide it is a great idea to put gravel on a cycle path. Why would you do it?!

No signs again.

Cold. Think feet are still on the end of my legs, haven't been able to feel them since I left.

Rain.

Get to a km or two from Sturovo on the gravel path and it is blocked. No entry sign beside a factory. Went up the field beside it, no paths. Argghhh back 3 or 4km to a path up through the previous village.

Strange place, dance music is being played out of speakers throughout the place. Every 100 metres there's a speaker on a pole, odd. No one around either, just one old lady pushing a cart of flowers up the street.

Takes absolutely forever to reach Sturovo. Was beginning to think that it was just a fictional place.

Eventually off the gravel onto road and cross a bridge over the Danube into Hungary. 10th country I have now cycled in.

Bridge brought me into Esztergom. Lovely town, amazing buildings and big castle up on the hill.

Need to change money, but the banks were closed. Credit card at ATM instead. Have no idea how much the HUF exchange rate is and the ATM didn't tell me either, so took out 50000huf, hoping it wasn't going to be hundreds of pounds!

Decided to just stay on the road after a bit of cycle path out of Esztergom. Starting to get dark, lights on. Really dodgy road. Pot holes and cracks and bumps and a drop off the edge of tarmac. Momentary blindness each time a car passes. Pedalling fast to get as far as possible. It was a bit risky to say the least, not big or smart, but managed another 20km down the road.

Tried a campsite at Domos, but it's only open until September. End up in Visegrad. Today is also a national holiday, so after trying all the accommodation places in the town, to no avail, its a room in Visegrad Hotel for €60.

It's warm. Takes a while to thaw out. Really comfy bed too. Breakfast and use of the swimming pool and spa facilities included. Out on the balcony I can see the castle up on the hill all lit up too.

I do avail of the mini bar in my room.

Day 55 - 23.10.14
Komárno, Slovakia to Visegrad, Hungary
10.30am to 8.30pm
5h 13min cycling
91.9km
2368 calories
604 metres asc

Leaving Bratislava on Eurovelo 6 - Day 54

Wednesday 22nd October 2014 - Back on the road today. Looked at forecast and there was a weather warning about Gonzalo. It was really windy through the night too. Woke up to windows banging.

Cold, windy and raining this morning. Packed up bags. My bike was outside in the terrace, not under cover, so had to scoop out the water that had collected inside of them overnight, before packing.

Back into hostel for breakfast. Bread dipped in egg and fried, with cheese on top and pancakes with cream, chocolate and jam. Hopefully keep the legs turning for a good bit this morning.

Man in the bar with his dog. It came over to me while I was waiting on my food coming. It was really soft and fluffy. It then lay down and feel asleep over my feet.

Brought bike through, down steps, through bar, up steps. Quite a task. Outside and it is sooo cold. Wind is really chilly.

Stopped for more cash on way out of town, then back over the UFO bridge.

Minor detour just after as they look like they were re-building one of the bridges across the river.

Bit of a cycle path, then onto the road for ages. Quiet road though, only me and the rain on it. The Danube was canalised during the Stalin years, so the road was along the dam edge. Flat and slightly sheltered from the wind, I managed 50km in under 2 hours, including coming out of the city. Pretty good, it also kept me warm.

Cold wet feet though.

Crossed the dam onto an island part and there is an outdoor sculpture art museum. Looked good, took few photos, but no time to go in.

Also they use the dammed water for a whitewater kayak course. Looked great, also explains why Slovakia is good during the Olympics etc, the force of the water down the course looked really strong.

On along the edge of the dam. Seagulls and ducks flying away when they eventually realise I'm approaching them.

Stop just before I cross to the other side. Really really windy here and cold. Lots of waves and spray coming off the water too.

Down the other side and along the bank. The smooth tarmac then turned into gravel paths. These were so slow and seemed to suck the wheels in like quicksand. Really monotonous. Nothing to look at either, for miles. The path was on top of a bank, trees on one side, flat farmland on the other. For ages.

Was also keeping an eye on the massive black clouds that seemed to be following me, hoping they wouldn't burst. Kept me motivated to pedal on through the slushy gravel.

This scene repeated over and over for the next couple of hours. Really slow, annoying and boring. Kept switching sides of the track to see if one was better than the other. Neither were.

Every so often there is also a metal barrier across the track. They have a dip in the middle for cyclist to go over. Some have a ramp over the round barrier, some don't. Some also swing when you roll your front wheel over them. Never know which type you'll find at each one, it also means stop starting in the gravel, arrrgghhh.

Slooooooooow. Especially after my really fast morning section.

First person I also pass is a man and his dog out running at 98km.

Also, there are hardly any signs. The ones that are there also seem to be broken, sprayed over, or on the ground, which is a pity. It could have been someone that was tipped over the edge of sanity by the gravel paths, taking their frustration out perhaps?

Into the town of Komarno in the dark. Looked like nice buildings. Still can't feel my feet, or hands now. Really cold.

Found the campsite which is owned by the adjacent hotel. Panorama Hotel, just near the centre. €6.80 for the night.

Round into the site. Windy, cold, rainy, cold, damp, cold, hands don't work. Makes putting the tent up a bit of a challenge.

No food left, only one corny cereal bar (love these) and some peanuts. Not going back into town either.

Hot water in a water bottle and zipped up into tent to try and warm up and sleep.

Brrrr

Day 54 - 22.10.14
Bratislava to Komárno, Slovakia
11.30am to 6.30pm
4h 53min cycling
107.4km
3200 calories
380 metres asc

Rest Day Bratislava - Day 53

Tuesday 21st October 2014
Slept.
All clothes washed and dried.
Wandered round town.
Couldn't find any camping gas.
Love this city - would be lovely in the snow.
McDonald's for lunch.
Bryndzové halušky for dinner.
Sunny, 23 degrees.
Downloaded film on phone to watch.
Jazz band playing in bar in evening.
Raining.
Ready for the road again

          

Beautiful Bratislava - Day 52

Monday 20th October 2014 - Slept well wrapped up like a sausage roll in the silk covered duvet. It was cold last night again, had to have a hot shower before bed to warm up. I've been cold for past couple of days now.

Down for breakfast and away at 10.30am. Liked this place, nice indoor bit with loads of plants. More of those massive trumpet flowers, these ones were white and smelled like jasmine.

Stopped to get cash and restock of cereal bars and some water.

Back out of town to the cycle path. Stopped to check signs and heard a hiss. Nooooo. Looked closer trying to locate its origin, thinking it would be the first puncture of the trip. Realised it was coming from my water bottle.

That bottle of water I bought definitely said 'still' water. Opened the spout, took a sip, sparkling. Really, what is the point in fizzy water, tastes like plastic, but suppose it's a change for a day.

Back to cycling along on a straight bank. Grass each side with trees. Nothing really to see for 20km. Every so often I'd cycle through a warm pocket of air though, which was weird.

Stopped to empty the gravel out of my shoes just before going onto the road. Noticed the last couple of weeks I'm having to pull the velcro tabs of my shoes more and more. Surely my feet can't be shrinking and if so, does that mean I had fat feet before??! Surely not!

Over a big long bridge and round under it to Hainburg an der Donau. Old town with castle and walls, with another big castle up on the hill behind it. Wee ladybird landed on my knee whilst cycling through. I carried her about 5km before she flew off. Doing my bit to help the biodiversity of the banks of the Danube.

The path led up to the train tracks. As I was coming up to the tracks a train was coming. No barriers on the crossing, train driver kept honking his horn. Yes, I can see and hear your big metal tube and I'm miles away and not even going to cross the tracks, as the path turned to go alongside the railway line.

Could see Bratislava way off in the distance, with the distinct shape of Bratislava castle up on the hill. Quite exciting.

Up to the border, no stopping now Slovakia is in the EU. The old border area slowly being taking over by vegetation.

I'm now into eastern Europe, can't read any of the signs. Also each new country has different cycle signage, so have to recognise what your looking for quickly, or you're away in the wrong direction.

Past a bunker museum, didn't look like there was much there, so just cycled on.

Back to the river and coming up to the city, the castle appeared again, as did the UFO bridge (Most SNP bridge). It is a one cable-stayed bridge with only one pylon, on top of which is a flying saucer shaped structure, known as the UFO Outlook Tower. This part is also a restaurant and an observation deck. Looks really fab.

Actually crossed this bridge, the cycle and pedestrian crossing is under the road on it.

Straight into the old town. Really like the feel of eastern European cities. Not sure what it is. Up through the pedestrianised old town streets with all the lovely buildings, street cafes and restaurants, people coming and going.

Out at the top under Michaels Gate, built in the 13th century and one of Bratislavas oldest buildings. Then up to the Presidential Palace.

Just as I had got there, police were stopping traffic and a calvacade of police motorbikes and cars lead out a black car with a flag on it. I presume it must've been the president going for a pint of milk and loaf of bread.

Hostel was just down the street beside the palace. I stopped to admire a nice building, looked at the map and that building was the hostel.

Two nights for €29. Free washing machine and €1 for powder. 8 bed dorm to myself. Bike out in the back terrace.

Had a big feed of chicken pasta, salad, beer and a coffee for €11 in the restaurant/bar downstairs of the hostel. Cool inside. Typical building, big shallow staircase with really high ceilings, wooden floors, double windows. Nicely decorated, really homely feel to it. Kitchen and living room with a piano too.

Think I might do the touristy stuff tomorrow, if the rain stops that is!

Day 52 - 20.10.14
Orth an der Donau, Austria to Bratislava, Slovakia
10.30am to 3.30pm (I think)
2hr 27min cycling
40.2km
1022 calories
306 metres asc

Sunday Stollers in Vienna - Day 51

Sunday 19th October 2014 - Really cold, not as cold as Wiltz, but still foundering last night.

Gas ran out this morning as well, about 45 seconds after lighting it. So got up and luckily there was a stocked kitchen, no kettle, but pans and a cooker...ahhh heat.

One of the cats came in while I was waiting on the water boiling. I scooped it up and cuddled it to try and extract some of its furry warmth. It actually feel asleep in my arms.

Yes, I hadn't turned the cooker up to full heat, after wondering why it was taking so long to boil. Brain obviously froze overnight too.

After planning to leave early, I left at 12pm, argh. It's going to be a big day too. Hoping to make Bratislava, about 120km from here, Traismauer.

Blasted to McDonald's 30km away in Tulln, with the help of Pure Heroine (Lorde album), for food. Sundays the shops are closed.

On my way I saw a group of cyclists with panniers in the distance. Got closer and saw it was the New Zealand family from the Grein campsite, on the rainy day.

Caught up to them and pedalled a bit with them chatting. They are doing eight months world tour and have cycled through Italy, Switzerland and Austria. The girls, I think about 8 and 12 years old, both had their own bags on their bikes. They are finishing in Vienna today and then going to Budapest to sightsee, before flying to Asia to tour around for another couple of months, not on bikes though. Really nice family.

Headed on to McDonalds. Just as I was finishing up, they arrived in.

Today has also been really cold. The misty river fog hadn't lifted and the air was quite cold when cycling along. Still just wearing three quarter length Endura baggies though. Toes frozen for most of day, as socks and shoes still damp.

Finally the sun did manage to put in an appearance about 2pm. So did all the Sunday day out people.

Into Vienna along the river. Have been in the city before, so just followed the signs on past. It went through various roads and paths and was like a race track. Road bikers in full Lycra dodging in and out and round all the other cyclists and walkers at speed, had to really keep an eye out.

Route took me over to the other side of Danube. I didn't want to be on that side, as Bratislava is reached by the right bank, but looking at map couldn't see an easy way without going into the city, so just followed the signs.

The path went on for ages. It was along the grassy banks and lots of people out walking, roller blading, skate boarding, cycling, bbqing, playing football, wrestling.....

On and on and on. Every so often when passing a drain getting a vomit inducing whiff of the stench coming up from them too.

5.30pm and it was about 20km to Orth an der Donau. Knew I wouldn't make Bratislava in daylight, so just decided I'd stay there and go to Slovakia in the morning, as I really want to see the UFO bridge and the castle on the hill on the way in.

So, finally pulled off the grass bank and went through a stunningly beautiful Shell oil refinery (I think that's what it was), for a good bit.

Then it turned into a nature reserve. Sun now setting and there was a lovely red sky (didn't come out too well in photos though).

Stopping for photos was a nightmare, as a plague of hungry mossies decended to eat me each time.

Into Orth in the dark. Saw a few signs coming off the cycle route, before the town, for various types of accommodations.

Into town, cycled round. One of the pensions (like a b&b) was being rebuilt, one was in darkness and there was a nice looking hotel. Really fancied it, but only €39 in my pocket.

Last pension at top of town, so decided I'd go and look at it and then have the hotel as a last resort option.

Pension Sabine, €35 for bed and buffet breakfast. Nice courtyard with big pond. Lady said you can swim in it, I said maybe not tonight thanks. Bike parked in a secure garage.

Only about 20-30km from Bratislava, so will get up have breakfast and a short day tomorrow (hopefully).

Still cold.

Day 51 - 19.10.14
Traismauer to Orth an der Donau, Austria
12pm to 6.30pm
4hr 45min cycling
97.9km
2699 calories
577 metres asc

The Danube Wine Cycle Route - Day 50

Saturday 18th October 2014 - Paid at 8am when the man turned up, €6.20.

Putting on wet socks and shoes, yuk!

Vislof had made me breakfast again. Choice of coffee or tea, cheese sandwich and chocolate bars. After finishing it, I said good bye, all my stuff was already packed up and headed off.

11am and back up and over the bridge to the right side of the river. It was a very misty morning.

4km on and I'd just stopped to take a photo when a guy on a bike stopped to talk to me. Asked where I was going to, coming from blah blah. He was on a road bike with only one small saddled bag. Travelling from Munich to Vienna. I commented he didn't have much stuff, he said he was staying in hotels. Well for some! I said I'd be too slow, suggestively telling him to go on, as I didn't want to cycle with anyone today!

Bit of a climb, round a corner to SUNSHINE!!!! Woohoo!!!

Great feeling the warmth and actually seeing what the view was like. Lovely cycle along the river in the sun with no cars or rain.

On through a few villages. The steep banks of the river now become covered with vines not trees.

Stopped at a Billa for some food. Then when I got back onto the road, someone had clearly stolen all the signs I was following.

The road went up, up and up. Not a cycle sign to be seen. Had seen a great big monestry or castle high on a hill in the distance. Now I was coming up to its height by road. Do the legs good to remind them how to climb after a few days of flat river cycling.

The view from the top was amazing. Looking down on the Danube from a height gave it a completely different look. Great to see it from above as well.

Managed then to somehow find myself on the wine cycle route. That would be a good summer one, cycle from wine house to wine house, sampling the goods!!

Dropped back down to Traismauer and located a campsite. Another short day, but wanted to get all my damp gear from yesterday thoroughly dried out in the sun, before it disappeared at about 6pm.

My sleeping bag is absolutely stinking, as I think it's got packed away too many mornings when the cold damp air had still been on it.

Debating whether to wash it or not. It says hand wash, no tumble dry. Obviously I'd need to machine wash and tumble dry it, but it might end up in a less than fluffy state. Hmmm.

Campsite is in the back garden of a family's house, which is kinda weird but kinda homely too. Only person here.

Day 50 - 18.10.14
Melk to Traismauer, Austria
11am to 4.30pm
3hr 07min cycling
53.2km
1495 calories

560 metres asc

Drenched - Day 49

Friday 17th October 2014 - Rained all night. Up to have a look out in daylight. Coming in and putting up tent in the dark and rain, not sure what the surroundings are like. It's like a surprise for the morning.

Camped under the castle of Grein.

Rain rain rain.

Showered.

Still raining heavily. Puddles everywhere. Tent nearly floating. Ducks now wandering around the campingplatz.

Vislof suggested going to tour the castle, as he didn't want to ride in rain and it was something to do rather than sit in a restaurant. I said I was going to pack up and head on. Only water after all. Everything was soaked anyway and no point wasting a day sitting looking at the rain.

He decided he was coming then too. He said he was going to remember this day for the next 20 years!!

Lots of layers and the waterproofs on and off we went. Waved at the family as we left Grein, they were staying put for the day.

It continued to pour down. The cycle path was beside the road so we were getting the spray from the passing cars and lorries as well.

Foamy knees on my waterproof trousers from spilled washing liquid a couple of weeks ago and the repetitive turning of the pedals made me chuckle.

Vislof was in front and I couldn't stop laughing at how ridiculous we must've looked and how much he probably wished he hadn't have come. We swaped at 10km.

Coming through Weins 15km later I lost him. Waited. 10 minutes past, so I turned back and found him in a bus shelter. Needed a rest, high blood pressure at 270 two years ago, so he needs to take things easy. We chatted for about half an hour. So funny because he sometimes gives completely random answers to some questions I ask him, as he doesn't understand me. So I've simplified my speaking to sentences of only a few keys words!

He rides a 20 year old bike, nothing fancy, with a bit of blue plastic covering his computer and his water bottle is an empty bottle of shop bought water filled with tea, coffee and sugar!

2km later I had passed the 3000km mark, yeow!!

Another stop at a shop in the next town. Sheltered in trolley bay. He spoke German so was able to have the banter with everyone coming to do their shopping. They all said tomorrow will be sunny!

On we went. Crossed the Danube and saw the massive impressive monestry at Melk. A lot of tour boats also docked here.

No camping. So crossed the bridge and found a camp ground in Emmersdorf, on the other side.

5.30pm. Reception was meant to be open from 7-8pm. Vislof went to see prices for rooms at hotel beside campsite. €66 cheapest. Not a chance. Pitched tents then went into the town to the local gasthof for dinner. Beef, gravy and potatoes mmmm. I love these gasthofs. The reception person never turned up.

Mentioned I'd push on tomorrow, as we only did less than 50km today and I need to do more than that each day.

Will see where I get to tomorrow, hopefully to a campsite just before Vienna.

Day 49 - 17.10.14
Grein to Melk, Austria
12.30pm to 5.30pm
2hr 47min cycling
48.7km
1202 calories
293 metres asc