The Way of St. James, Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances, or just a very long walk.
As usual for me, it was a kind of last minute decision to go and do this. I was wanting to do another long distance journey, but something other than cycling. I also wanted to do it in February, wintertime in Europe, therefore camping every night for an extended period was kinda ruled out. Walking seemed plausible and after a bit of Google searching, this route stood out as it is well set up due to its popularity and is a good distance for a challenge.
A couple of weeks later, after a €30 flight had been booked from Dublin to Madrid, rucksack purchased and minimally packed, one practice walk of 10km done (resulting in a blister) and I was off.
I got a train from Madrid airport up to San Sebastian and walked through the pouring rain to the hostel I had booked. Drenched and dripping wet I was glad I wasn't having to set up a tent for the night!
Next day I got a train to the end of the Spanish line, walked across the border (a car park) into France and caught another train then a bus up into the hills. Arriving in St. Jean Pied de Port, my starting point, in a torrent of hail stones. Awesome.
Found my way to the pilgrims office, collected my credential that would allow me to stay in the Albergues (hostels) along the way, as well as picking up the obligatory scallop shell to tie to my pack, marking me out as a pilgrim.
Couple of doors up, check in to an Albergue for the first time. They're basically just hostels, but only for people walking the Camino and who have a credential that gets stamped each night, to show where you've stayed at. They also vary greatly in cleanliness and homeliness and usually cost between €5-10 per night. This one was grand, and only five of us staying the night in the room of about 20 beds. It was also very clean.
Day 1 - Had a cup of tea and bread and jam for breakfast before leaving. It was still raining. Time to do this. Time to walk 500miles..... Down the desserted cobble street to the edge of town, I could see the snow on the mountains around me. The ladies in the pilgrim office had instructed me not to go over the mountain, as it was covered in snow and would be too dangerous.
So it was by the road all day in the rain and snow. Climbing uphill constantly. Stopped for some lunch at Valcarlos, then continued on UPHILL to my bed for the night in the monastery at Roncesvalles. Freezing day, snow, fog, cold, uphill road walking and an hours wait to get let in to the Albergue, which was the other end of the scale. Think prison cell-esque.
Day 2 - Next day more of the same, but walking down the other side of the mountains. Again all on the road. Feet burning. Stayed in brand new place in Zubiri. Very nice. Comfy beds, room to myself, leather sofas, food made to order....warm.
Day 3 - Snowed overnight again. Feet totally aching. Shoes still wet. Destination today Pamplona. Within 5minutes of leaving, I was soaked through and cold. Wet snow falling, combined with the spray of the traffic from the slush covered roads was the theme of the day. Nothing for it but to just keep walking to try and stay warm. Walked part of the trail off the road, some of it had crumbled away due to the rain.
Thought my day was finished and was excited for a hot hot shower when I arrived at the hostel in Villava. But no. They were still closed for winter. Another 5km into the municipal one in Pamplona centre, great. Sat and tried to put my gloves back on for about 10minutes. Hands were swollen from walking all day, shaking and numb from the cold. I looked a bit like a crazy woman for a while. Snow came on again to accompany me on the last stage of the day. Lucky me.
The last couple of km I was seriously freezing and uncontrollably shaking, think this may have been the coldest I have ever been for the longest length of time. Think hypothermia. No one to help me. On my own. Nothing for it but grit the chattering teeth and force myself to put one foot in front of another until I got there, while chanting 'nothing lasts forever' and thinking of hot showers and food!!
Day 4 to 14 - Quite a few people starting their Camino from Pamplona. Out of the city into the country again. Rain. Cold. Wet shoes. Few people to chat with now when walking. Albergues have more and more people in them each night.
Still raining lots, a lot of rivers flooded their banks, especially in Estella. Had to wade through flood waters twice. One of them it was up to my knees. An easy way to wash my shoes and cool my burning feet I suppose.
Couple of nice days through countryside and small rural villages on the way to Burgos. Met some nice people walking and a group of us, from several different countries across the globe, seemed to stick together, stopping at the same place each night.
Some crazy hospitalarios, including a very OCD German man, who had to have everything done his way. He was pretty funny, while still being on the slightly unhinged side. Quite a few villages had nothing open, so some days were all about finding some food to eat (and sometimes water too). Great views, old ruins, nice villages. Climbing up mountains, with metal pilgrims and donkeys to great at the top. Fountains of free wine. Walking beside roads for miles in rain and hail. Eating in truck stop cafes. Sleeping, or trying to sleep, above the stinking Spanish drain cover in a horrid Albergue, worried I'd die from inhaling the filthy fumes overnight. Facing the torture every morning that was stepping out of bed, or worse, climbing down from a top bunk.
Sun started to show itself and the day walking to Burgos was beautiful. Blue sky, warm sunshine and great views from the top of the hill, looking down to Burgos.
Get to Burgos, stay first night in a military compound, or the municipal Albergue, one and the same. Then a treat for the second night and a day off, first in 14 days, in a plush hotel with a banquet breakfast, result.
Day 15 to 25 - After a luxurious break at the hotel, it was time to start walking again. Sun out now and hot. This part of the Camino is very flat. Through miles of farmland. Some people bypass this 'boring' part and bus on ahead. I really enjoyed the scenery and big skies.
It was at this stage peoples feet really started to suffer and were literally falling apart, toenails falling off, blisters and the like. I thankfully only had one blister, it wasn't sore, but I womaned up and burst it, bluerrrgghhh.
On a very hot sunny day, I was sizzling and there was no shade for miles. Then in the distance, on a little rise I spied a few trees, shade! A few of us sat under the trees watching fellow pilgrims walk past, it was so nice, one of those times you wouldn't want to be anywhere else.
We also acquired the company of Camino Dog. It had followed some people all day, then slept outside the Albergue and resumed it's journey with us the following day. It was taken by a woman coming into the next town, hopefully back home.
Keep meeting more new people along the way. Some with pretty interesting ideas and theories and ways they live their lives. Although at this stage, some peoples real personalities also started to show through, which was be a bit challenging if they are of a general negative persuasion.
Had a few days of walking by myself which was also great for some thinking time. Some of it into Astorga was along the side of a busy road for half a day. It brought back a lot of memories of cycling to Istanbul, which kept the boredom away.
Into Astorga, first night in Albergue then second day off and into a hotel with a balcony view over the lovely town square. Really liked this wee town.
Day 26 to 36 - Slept in the morning of leaving Astorga, very unlike me, ha! Back into the rain and the trail took up into the hills. It was a really great view from the top though, so that made it worth while. Some excellent rocky paths near the top that would've been so much fun to blast down on the mountain bike. Stayed in a farmhouse, got fed an amazing meal by the owners in front of an open fire.
Next morning I went outside to watch the world wake up from the top of the mountains and made some friends with a cute wee puppy, a donkey and some ponies and a big gruff mountain dog. The latter definitely having a bark well worse than its nonexistent bite.
This was also the morning of the solar eclipse. Weird daylight accompanied the short climb up to the Cruz de Ferro. Couple of sun gazers at the top kindly let me peer at it from their very large and powerful telescope. Few group shots at the cross and headed on.
I think this day was probably one of my best days on the Camino. Walking along the top of the mountains, amazing scenery all around, sunshine and blue sky and great conversation. Pure happiness. Loved it.
Next up was a bit of climbing again. Up the valley then a climb through the countryside and forest toward O Cebrerio. I stayed the night just below the summit, wanting to see the sunrise from the top the next morning.
I never got what I wanted, as usual. Left very early in darkness. Just a couple of kms below the top, just before sunrise, the clouds came rolling over and down the valley. It was actually quite spectacular with the added feeling like I was the only person left in the world to view it.
The fog and snow then accompanied me down the other side. This was my longest days walk so far, 47km. Beat and dragging my feet by the time I made it into Sarria.
Next section Galicia. Think typical Irish countryside and weather. Mizzly rain, damp, green fields, rolling hills, stone walls and cows (including their associated odour!).
Stayed the night a few kms outside Santiago and walked to the cathedral on Easter Sunday morning. Took a wee pit stop to watch the F1 Grand Prix at a bar a few hundred metres before the finish.
Arrived in time to watch the Palm Sunday parade through the town to the cathedral which was interesting, as the drummers were all wearing high pointed hoods over their heads.
Great evening out that night with the majority of the people who had all walked together.
Day 37 to 39 - Finisterre or Portugal? Tough decision. Kinda wanted to go with the others. Hard to leave. Just forced myself to walk south. Followed arrows backward. Lost half the time and walked along the busy road. Shit mood. Hot. Sunburnt. Pizza. Albergue full. Crap nights sleep. Over coffee the next morning decide to just keep walking until Portugal - 90km. Get it done.
Hot long day, hard staying on route. Every km seemed to take forever. 10pm stop or go. Dark. Stopped in cafe beside hostel. Easy to stay, therefore choose to go. Up a mountain, through forest. Cars creeping in forest. Nearly a full moon. Weird animals running out of the dark in front of me. Drunk people outside bars in towns. Rest for an hour in a bus stop. Watch the boy racers speeding up and down past me. 4am petrol station hot chocolate. Steep hill climb with great views of lights below from the top. Stop and rest in a forest just before dawn. Going weird. Near sleeping while walking, wow, new sensation. Dozed 20mins on a park bench while recharging Garmin. Dawn. Hot again. Sunburnt the day before so have to keep long sleeve top on. Melted. Industrial road. Straight for 5km. No shade. Torture. Hide out in a bar. Best tortilla ever provided. Nice forest walk. Lost in forest. Someone drawing random arrows, grrr. No water. Boiling. Dehydrated. Water at church from builders barrel. 3km to bridge across to Portugal. Effort of the major variety. Photos crossing bridge. Yey. Made it. Finally. Hell climb up to fort of a touristy town. Coffee. Albergue. Crash out. 87km. Done.
Day 40 - Wake the next morning. It's all over. Feet sore. Everyone leaves early. I take my time. Last one to leave. Close the door to the Albergue behind me on the way out. Kinda feel a bit sad. Find a bus that takes me to Porto where my family are waiting for me to spend a few days on the coast, with no walking involved!
Trainers were deposited in a bin.
It's been one amazing journey.
The end.
Stats...
February 20th to April 1st 2015
Distance over 850km
37 walking days
2 days off
7.8km shortest day
87km longest day
Total cost less than €1000 / £850
(including flights, transport, accommodation, food, etc)
Memories to last a lifetime - priceless!
No comments:
Post a Comment