Strasbourg Stresser - Day 30

Sunday 28th September 2014 - Listened to man and his friends yabbing on until after 2am and the music from the restaurant until after 3am. Was cold too, as forgot to get my socks out of bags, before I zipped up the tent last night.

Anyway, went and got my two croissants. Yum.

Back to bed. Snoozed on and off and before I knew it, it was 11.30am. Really dragging my heels today. My body knows its a Sunday = bed day.

Packed up and left about 1pm. Nice and warm again today. Not really in the mood for it though, as need a rest day. So just decided I was out on a leisurely Sunday spin in the sun.

Did the trick, before I knew it 20km done. Into Saverne and there were barricades up around the town. The way to the cycle path along canal was blocked off.

Had heard and seen a lot of motorbikes yesterday and this morning. Just thought it must be the weekenders out. Turns out it was a Dark Dog Moto Tour, whatever that was. Tents and stuff up in the square.
Talked to one of the stewards and she let me slip down through onto cycle path thankfully, so not in the mood today for any diversion nonsense.

On I went, stopped at a bar for a drink  in Waltenheim-sur-Zorn which was nice. Could've just stayed there all day, but no, must go on.

Only about 20km to Strasbourg and had seen campsite and youth hostel beside each other on the map, to the west of the city. So either would do, nice to have a choice.

Nothing much exciting, canal, water, boats, cyclist, trees, grass. Closer into town and more and more people about. Get out of my way you Sunday strollers.

So managed to navigate my way across the city using bike lanes. Through the gypsy camps beside the railway lines.

Stopped at a McDonald's for WiFi and food, thought I'll eat now, just encase there's nothing where I stop.

Spent about an hour there, then headed on. Signs now directing to the campsite. Awesome. 6pm in and get tent up and dried before dark.

Got to where the youth hostel was meant to be and it was a building site. Ha, lucky I had the choice.

On round to where the campsite was, hmm this building site also goes on in the same direction. Yup, get to where it should be and closed, reopening 2015. Bummer.

Battery dead on phone, use power pack which is also on its last light, to charge it up a bit to look at the map.

Right, found another youth hostel. On. The. Complete. Opposite. Side. Of. The. CITY!!!

Started off across the city at 7pm.

8pm arrived in the dark. Must stop this carry on. Haven't even seen anything of Strasbourg, only the whole outskirts.

Grumpy cow on reception. Dump of a hostel. WiFi wouldn't work, as need a code they email to you and I can't get into my emails, as they 'detect something strange' as I've logged in in different countries, I presume. Socket in room doesn't work. Everything about 30 years old. Shithole. Need to wash clothes. Need a rest day. Tent is wringing wet and still wrapped up. Need a shower. Want a nice meal.

Raaawwwrrrrr!!!!!

9pm and I'm gonna just have a good nights sleep (hopefully). Then breakfast is from 7-9am. Considering just sitting there and eating for 2 hours to get my 25 flipping Euros worth.

Day 30 - 28.09.14
Plan Incline to Strasbourg, France
1pm to 8pm
4hr 3min cycling
71.7km
1780 calories
484 metres asc

Getting nowhere, slowly. - Day 29

Saturday 27th September 2014 - Up, packed up, wanted to get away early to try to make Strasbourg. Canal cycle should be all the way there. Slept really well last night, nice warm cozy night in sleeping bag.

Lovely sunny morning again. Just packed up tent wet to get away. About 10km stopped at Mittersheim and got an almond croissant, a white icing custard éclair and some orange juice. Yummy.

Back on the canal. Going up the canal so constant pedalling and passing the locks. Each one had a wee house at it, some were lived in, some were empty. People on boats going up and down. Not many other people on the path though, so I could break the 20kmph speed limit for cyclists.

Not much to say, just a sunny days cycle in the country along a canal. Was lovely and at 1.30pm a sign read 28 degrees. Hot days again.

Imagining how to build a canal. Where do you start? How long would it take to complete miles and miles of a canal? Where do you get the water from? What if there's a leak, how would you ever find it? If all the locks were open at the same time would it drain empty? Plenty of time to think about these things today.

One stage where the canals joined each other, with big lakes at either side, I had to cross over a foot bridge. They had put the guttering up the sides of the steps to wheel the bikes over, but it was so steep and my bike is quite heavy. Bit of an effort and it was also metal grating, so slippy.

Took some photos at the top, but paranoid about dropping something as it would've been plop into the water below.

Wanted some food and a stop about lunchtime. Tried various wee villages just off the canal. Either there was no shop, or as they do in France, they were closed between 12-3pm. Not even any cafes or bars either, so frustrating. We don't know how lucky we are at home being able to buy anything, anytime, anywhere.

Ventured into the bigger town of Sarrebourg. Got a supermarket with millions of people doing their Saturday shop.

Had to then do the annoying task of figure out a route by road, as the next stretch of canal was just a grassy bank each side.

I was following the Canal des Houilleres de la Sarre, now onto the Canal de la Marne au Rhin.

This canal wasn't being used and the wildlife had taken it over. I was also following it downwards which was good! At one stage they had put in a board walk way right down the middle through a lock. I can now say I've cycled in a canal! I stopped at one of the seats here and had some peanuts and water, contemplating what to do next. It was 5pm.

Another 10km or so to Saverne, Strasbourg off the menu for today. Saw a campsite and a restaurant round the corner and decided I'd had enough of today.

Nice small campsite. Camping du Plan Incline. Lady really friendly and offered me a small old caravan to sleep in if I wanted as well. I declined as tent needs up and dried out. It also smelt a bit funny inside.

Went and had a drink at the restaurant, smelling some amazing whafts of food. Thought I'd blow the budget and eat here tonight, maybe get a big juicy steak and all the trimmings.

Went to pay for drink and asked about eating there tonight. Woman said there was no places for this evening. Sigh. Maybe it was cause I smelled perhaps, as there was no one there at all, apart from a few other tables just drinking. I'll be watching later to see if it gets busy, or if she was telling me porkies.

Made do with my last packet of trusty beef jerky instead. Similar to my original idea of dinner, but just ever so slightly lacking.

Some man keeps coming over to talk to me and just been again to invite me over for drinks at their van. He speaks no English, my French is basic, I've got the hunger rage starting and I'm cold. So no. Go away and leave me alone please.

Excited about the two croissants I ordered for the morning...only 12 or so hours to go!!

Day 29 - 27.09.14
Bissert to Plan Incline, France
11am to 5pm
4hr 1min cycling
69.1km
1914 calories
752 metres asc

Finally to Saarbrucken - Day 28

Friday 26th September 2014 - Dawn, but sun not through fog. Away about 7.30am, sat at next picnic table and ate rest of milky way bars for brekkie. Had no other food. Starvo.

Made way along river, watched the fog billowing up from the river like a cauldron. Sun fighting to get seen through it. All the grass along the way heavy with dew and there were tons of spiders webs through it. Looked class. Tried to take photo but not that clear.

Still had all my clothes in, looked like some sort of inflatable chunk of coal as everything is also black. Couldn't feel hands and feet for a good hour or so, had to use nose to take photos on phone touchscreen, as hassle taking waterproof gloves off and on all the time.

Stopped about 2km from a supermarket and derobed. Sun out now, air cool and chilly in the shade still. Supermarket had the heat on.

Hungry but just don't know what to buy as nothing takes my fancy last couple of weeks. Got bars, peanuts, chocolate biscuits, orange fanta, cheese, croissants and pumpkin seed bread. Also deodorant!!

Ate a good feed outside and felt much better. So Saarbrucken you are mine today.

River went through industrial areas. Big factories on one side and then flower farms on the other side.

Not much to tell really. Got to Saarbrucken, lots of cars, just kept pedalling on through. Anticlimax.

Wanted to get as far on as possible today, so I was now onto the canal. Herons every km, loads of the big gangly birds about.

Just after Saarbrucken I went from Germany back into France. What do you know but it was sunny and warm again and into the countryside. Lovely, think I finally thawed out about 2pm.

Just kept going. Had seen next campsite at Bissert. Sat in the sun and had 2 coffees in Sarralbe, which had an awesome big church. The last 10km or so was mind over matter. Started to fad and just wanted to lie down after having not much sleep last night.

Got to campsite, lovely pitch beside a fishing lake. €6.40 for the night. Its gonna be a very early one I think, a few zzzzzzz to catch up on.

Day 28 - 26.09.14
A8, Germany to Bissert, France
8am to 5pm
5hr 3min cycling
88.9km
2208 calories
766 metres asc

Motorway Snoozing - Day 27

Thursday 25th September 2014 -Saarbrucken today??? What a day!
Left tent dry. Rained during night.
Decided to just follow Mosel river then onto Saar river instead of cutting across roads, had enough of route planning and cars for a bit.
Caravans along river, vineyards everywhere. Sunshine getting warm again. Couple cycling with dog in basket on the back of bike, got video.
Cool looking geese. Lots of herons.
German side of river, no villages for food. Nothing since yesterday.
Over bridge to Luxembourg for lunch. Cafe, sausage cheese croissant and chicken salad bap, delicious.
Back over bridge and on round. Got very countrysidey. Nature reserve. Gravel tracks now. Found the smallest chapel ever on top of a hill in a forest. On Saar river.
Starting to get near sunset. Took the river option again. Lovely sunset, but still miles from Saarbrucken.
Found small shop got 1 litre of water and pack of 10 milkyways. Will I ever get there. Map for campsite.
One quite a bit away, pedalled on and on, getting dark. Good concrete and tarmac wide path so ok. Saw a few good spots to put tent up, but kept pushing on. Dark now. Used headtorch to light the way. Lucky no sharp corners as its about 1 candle brightness.
Got to road and it was game over. Not risking it.
What to do. Backtracked and country road on the other side of motorway from the cycle path I was following was. Took bike up a bit and just stayed there until morning. 8.30pm. Had a couple of milkyways. Freezing and foggy as beside river. Car lights all night and noise from lorries and cars zooming on motorway beside me. Couldn't be arsed putting tent up.  So just put on down jacket, waterproof trousers, jacket overshoes, buff on face, wooly hat and gloves. Sat on plastic bag on ground, rested against panniers. Stary Stary night, saw a shooting star, class. Still foundered. About 12.30am saw a collie dog come sniffing up the laneway towards me & thought someone out walking their dog. Then thought that's a very bushy tail for a dog, oh its fantastic Mr Fox. Was massive and literally was 5 foot beside me before I rattled my plastic sheet I was sitting on and scared it away into the grass opposite.
Shivering. Lost feeling in feet now.
Dozed on and off, mainly off. Kept waiting for morning and listening to lorries pass all night. Got very foggy too. Car headlights like laser lights show. My sleeping coordinates for this evening if you want to Google it:
49°23′39.13″N 06°39′53.43″E

Day 27 - 25.09.14
Nenning to A8 near Saarfels
1.30pm to 8.30pm
5hr 20min cycling
93.2km
2551 calories
941 metres asc

Riding in Circles - Day 26

Wednesday 24th September 2014 - Started good out of Luxembourg city then blocked path by road works. Didn't get back onto it. Trying to use brown lines on map. In the end back onto road to Schengen. Signs on bridge took photos. 4pm so decided to just head 10km up river to Nennig as saw campsite there. Passed a lot of cycle signs now wasn't looking for them. Saarbrucken 130km, defo wouldn't have made it tonight. Campsite nice, in Germany now. Grapes everywhere to eat, chef spoke English. Looked at map and just rode a big circle, waste of a day, argh! McDonald's for WiFi and warmth. Rained in evening in tent. Cold but not as freezing as last couple of nights in Wiltz. Scalding hot water from taps in toilet block. Made use of it and filled one of my water bottles before bed. Heated my sleeping bag and was warm for about 3 hours. Ah, nice and cozy listening to rain patter on the tent.

Day 26 - 24.09.14
Luxembourg City to Nenning, Germany
11am to 4pm
3hr 23min cycling
55.2km
1523 calories
725 metres asc

Lovely Day to Luxembourg City - Day 25

Tuesday 23rd September 2014 - Cold cold night again, 3 degrees brrr. Waited until I thawed a bit and got up to blue sky and sunshine.

Went and paid up, €23.80 for 2nights and a wash & dry token. This campsite is great, Camping Kaul in Wiltz if you're ever here. There is a massive pool and waterslides too - I didn't use it though, it was closed now.

Packed up and put clean clothes on, ah! From about the second week now I've been able to smell clean people from about 100 metres away. I hope they can't say they can smell me from that distance too!

Left around 1pm after packing up. It took a while finding the path out of Wiltz. It was a lovely flat fast meadow lane. Winding through the trees with the river and grass beside me. Sunshine dappling through. The air is pretty chilly though. What a change in temperature.

Started going up, and up and up, big climb. Though with the cooler air, I can't believe I'm going to say this, but I actually really enjoyed it!!!!

Amazing view at the top. Lots of hiking paths around as well. Had a few croissants and sat on top of the hill admiring the spectacular scenery. I was on top of Luxembourg.

What goes up, must come down. Fab descent winding down the road to the river again. Passed a woman out watering her garden, I had a mad grin on my face and my eyes were watering with the speed, she must've thought I was crazy as she laughed as I passed!

Had to then pick a route to meet up with another cycle route that would take me Luxembourg City. Left, right or straight on?? Hmm, straight I think. Another long climb again, quite steep in places and switchbacks to the top. Saw a castle tucked into the hill in the distance.

At the top it was time for food. Thoughtfully they had placed a few picnic tables in a nice landscaped area - bacon Tuc crackers, brie, and tinned pineapple - heaven!

Down to valley again. Eventually made my way to Ettlebruck. It was getting late now, around 6pm I think, sun sets at 7.30pm, but I wasn't feeling hurried. The path ran beside the train tracks and it was now a cycle path the whole way to city.

Along the way heard an aeroplane. But it seemed very close, spotted a jet doing some acrobatic flying. Just the one, not sure if Luxembourg have an air force or not. Spotted a hot air balloon as well floating in the evening sky. It kept following me for an hour or so, I felt obligated to take a photo of it, then didn't see it again!

Now had 30km to go and it was 6.30pm. Every so often the path had to cut onto the roads through villages to link up. Saw a calf in a box (alive) on the side of the road, a cool castle and a yard that had loads of bushes of massive trumpet flowers, each about a foot long, in all different colours.

As I was getting closer to the city, the sun set. It was a good one. More road works. Decided not to chance crossing the bridge they were working on and went round it by the road.

Into the suburbs, round playing fields, streets of houses and offices. Dark now. Had my headtorch as a front light. Good but not bright enough to show me where the dog poop was until I was on top if it, grr.

Following the signs which were pretty good. Closer now, in through parks and dark unlit streets. Never felt in any way unsafe though. Into city centre, decided to use the footpaths then, as I had to cut across couple of busy roads in town to get to hostel which was under the bridge. In at 9pm.

Today was an amzing day. Great cycleways, wonderful scenery all around. Around every corner was another magnificent sight. I kept stopping loads throughout the day to enjoy them and took lots of photos.
Just beautiful, kept thinking I was in Switzerland it had that kind of feel to it. It's hard to explain and the photos just don't show how great it was, so I recommended everyone to come to Luxembourg to see it for themselves!

Great sign posting as well, hoping now I can make quicker progress, as I'll not have to plan my own route each day.

Croc Monsieur for tea, bed - up early for Saarbrucken? Not if the girl in the bunk above me keeps snoring the way she does!

Today was a fabulous day.

Day 25 - 23.09.14
Wiltz to Luxembourg City
1pm to 9pm
5hr 7min cycling
78.9km
2691 calories
1499 metres asc

Rest Day in Wiltz - Day 24

Monday 22nd September 2014 - Needed a rest day, as cycled the last seven. Really didn't do much. Campsite is nice and quiet with lovely new clean toilets and showers. Last night was freeeeeezing, so was glad of a nice long hot shower this morning.

Got excited about a wee bag of white powder. All my clothes into to washing machine for it to work its magic on, pretty sure they could've probably walked into it by themselves.

Map of cycleways and mountain bike routes. Tons of them that I never knew existed here. Another time perhaps.

Went to supermarket for some supplies. Spinach tortellini for dinner using the last of my gas.

Prepared myself for another cold night. It was about 4 or 5 degrees last night and to be the same tonight. First time the down jacket has made an appearance from my bag.

Looking forward to getting going again tomorrow.

A Little Moistness Into Luxembourg - Day 23

Sunday 21st September 2014 - Raining this morning when I woke up and overcast grey clouds. Got up and showered, didn't have any breakfast, bread and cheese just wasn't exciting me this morning. No one else was in the hostel, only the owner guy which was a bit weird too. So got my bike, packed up and left.

It had stopped raining and I made my way to the nearest petrol station, only a couple of km away. It was on the N4 at Tenneville and I'd thought of maybe just blasting down it, even though there's not much room on the edge of the road for me and the cars are speeding along beside.

Got a waffle and coffee and just as I was tucking into it, the rain started again, noooo.

Watched the rain get heavier, enjoyed my waffle, watched it continue as I drank the last of my coffee. The spray from the cars on the main road was mad. Not riding on it, decision made.

After waiting for a break, which wasn't happening, I dug out my waterproof trousers, jacket and overshoes. Ready to do battle with the elements, fully prepared this time!

I didn't put the covers on the bags though, as didn't want them sitting in a puddle of water all day again!

So, look at map, plan out a criss cross across the quiet country roads, thankfully it was now only a bit mizzley.

At one stage there was a brown line on the map beside where I had stopped. It looked ok, gravelly type track and it had a sign post for hikers. Looked interesting and cut across to where I was going to, Wyompont. So I ventured down it.

Turned a bit more rocky and I had to keep reminding myself to go slow as I wasn't on mountain bike tyres. Really didn't need a puncture today.

Rain started to get heavy again. Bit of a climb to Givroulle, small roads to Givry, Roulette, then straight mainish road to Champs, Hemroulle and Bastogne.

I was ok in my waterproofs, bit damp though from sweating up the climb on the inside, but warm enough.

Passing the houses and villages along the way I could smell Sunday dinners and wood fires burning. Sob, had contemplated knocking on someones door and seeing if they would invite me in, doubtful though really.

Into Bastogne, main road, car spray.

Stopped for a last beer and burger and frites before leaving Belgium and a really good coffee (Andrea, you would've loved it I reckon). €9 bill.

Sat outside as I was dripping wet. People inside in their Sunday best.

Couple of men came and sat beside me. Got talking and they were from the Netherlands. They'd been in France with work and were heading back after getting a bite to eat. They were also saying that in Belgium on a Sunday the roads are dangerous, as they drink beer and drive. Lucky I was done with the roads today!

Onto the cycle path I had found yesterday while waiting at the hostel.

Oh my word, it was amazing. Straight to Wiltz in about an hour. Think it was an old railway line, through tunnels, smooth tarmac, no one else on it, awesome.

I knew I was coming up to the border and was waiting for the sign. I did stop at a metal archway, but there wasn't a sign on it. Looked at map and I was still a km or so off the border.

When I still hadn't seen any border sign I stopped again. Turns out I has going so fast (for a change!) that the map, the first time I look at it at the mental arch, hadn't caught up with me. Bummer.

Into Wiltz and the sun was starting to come through. Smiles.

Found the campsite. Tent up & relax. Rain on again and today has been noticeably cooler too.

I hope the rest of Luxembourg is like the past hour, fingers crossed!

Day 23 - 21.09.14
Champlon, Belgium to Wiltz, Luxembourg
11am to 4pm
3hr 6min cycling
46km
1502 calories
892 metres asc

Box of Chocolates, Forests, No Running - Day 22

Saturday 20th September 2014 - Owner was right, he picked the best spot to watch the sunrise. Beautiful. Great start to the day.

As I had planned a rest day, but didnt want to stay in smelly hostel and didn't make it to Champlon hostel last night, I decided I would pedal over there this morning and stay two nights there.

It was a short day to Champlon, only 12km.

But what a lovely 12km forest ride. I followed the road and it took me up through the forest I watched the sun rise over earlier in the morning. I actually didn't leave until about 1pm as I was enjoying the peacefulness and the sunshine and knew checking in probably wouldn't be until the afternoon anyway.

The sun was out, the smell of forest, birds singing, buzzards squawking up in the clouds above, pigs rolled in mud in the fields, it was great.

Passed a massive spiders web between two trees glistening in the sun, with the spider sitting in the middle waiting for lunch. Maybe it was a she and her name was Charlotte?

Every few hundred metres on both sides of the road were wooden boxes on stilts, with a wooden ladder up to them. Kind of like little rustic tennis umpire boxes. I guess it was to do with hunting as the forest had barriers at the fire track roads going into it and signs, not sure though.

Got to Champlon and the hostel was not open until 5pm. It was about 2pm. Sat outside in the sun on a bench, used their WiFi and route planned.

Decided to go down to the shop in the village about 4.30pm for supplies, after seeing there was a small Spar shop on Google streetview.

Got there and it had closed down! There was a bakery open beside it, so I just got an apple pastry thing, bottle of juice & box of €6 Belgian chocolates to treat myself, as I'd be leaving the country soon.

Back up the hill to the hostel, legs felt a bit tired, rest day ready!

Not many people in hostel. Guy was friendly enough. Bike locked up in a garage outside. Building a bit dated. Another big dorm to myself. Was weird place. No one staying there and only the man, his wife and friend downstairs.

Checked out routes and campsites and hostels on the internet for next few days. Caught up facebook and ate some chocolate for tea, felt sick after. Give me a bag of giant Cadburys buttons any day over the fancy chocolates.

Lay on the bed and watched the lightening and torrential rain and listened to the thunder for about 3 hours. Not really a camping night.

Felt something bite my leg and when I looked it had already swollen up. Then another couple on my feet. Uh oh, bed bugs came to mind.

Took off the quilt and just used the clean sheets and didn't get bitten any more. Had the irritating feeling of things crawling over me for the rest of the even though! Gross out.

Tomorrow won't be a rest day after all, not paying to stay here another night to be eaten alive.

Day 22 - 20.09.14
Nassogne to Champlon, Belgium
1pm to 2pm
1hr cycling
12.3km
287 metres asc

Its Alright in the Ardennes - Day 21

Friday 19th September 2014 - Woke up. Room stinks. Everything still wet.

Go to get breakfast. Eat lots.

It's this hostel that stinks. Some weird smell, like a mixture of cheap cleaning products and wee.

Okay, my room kinda stinks as well with all the damp, cow poo slashed clothes. But, it still smells better than the hostel smell.

Lady on reception a bit offish last night and this morning. Therefore, not staying another night. Two things I detest are rudeness and smellyness.
Spoke to a nice Dutch couple from Gouda who were packing up their bikes in the courtyard. They were going to Rome.

Nasty woman said you MUST be out of your room by 10.30am. So just carted all my gear out into the courtyard. Hoped the sun would dry off some stuff while I packed up.

Everything was damp and dirty. The clothes I put on were still damp too, yuck.

Nothing was drying so packed up and went on. Found another cash machine on way out of town, it gave me some money.

Headed out the N4. Bored of cycling with so much traffic. Hills started to appear. Lots of dead animals on the road too.

Time to cut onto the country roads.

Far better. Scenery getting better, less cars, quieter. Nice. On the busy roads I also felt I had to push on as the cars were going to fast beside me. Now I can cycle tour again, leisurely. Things are all good again.

Lots of cows around this part. Lots of cow poo on the roads.

Hot humid again. Gears stopped changing in the front. Stuck in big ring. Have to stop, get off, find a twig (don't want oil/dirt on my hands or gloves) and manually change it down to a lower chainring for the hills.

One stage saw a hairy white caterpillar, with a red pointy up tail, crossing the road in front of me. Stopped, took a picture, decided not to interfere with nature and help it across the road, and cycled on.

Seconds later a car came past. Not sure if it survived.

Saw a field of peas, I think, in between the corn fields! Also a long row of mesh satellite dishes in another field too, odd!

Stopped at a lidl again. Got some nice floury white baps and some cheese slices. Made a couple and saved a couple for later. Some cereal bars too.

Hills were becoming frequent again, but the countryside was lovely. Nearly like home. I was cycling through the Ardennes.

Anyway, 7pm came around. I was tired, hot and knew it'd be getting dark through the trees to Champlon where there was a hostel I was planning to stay at.

Campsite a few km away in next village, Nassogne, so aimed for there. Barrier was down. No sign of life. Sign in French (the language they speak in this part of Belgium) said it was open until November 2014.

Pressed the buzzer on the barrier, which had a prerecorded message in French. All I got from it was hello!

An elderly man walked past and a man in a car stopped as well. I said I didn't understand the message. He pressed the buzzer. This time the owner answered. So once he'd finished, he told me to go on in and the owner will come in 10 minutes.

Deserted site. Bit sad looking, all the poor wee caravans left on their own. There was actually a couple staying in one of the caravans.

Sat and waited for the owner. Ate a cheese bap from earlier. Really lovely site, great views, only the sound of the country. Watched the sun setting while I waited.

So the owner and his wife turn up. Speaks no English, but basically shows me where to put the tent up for the best view of the sun rise in the morning. He was kind of a mix of Del Boy and Jimmy Saville (white hair part). He only wanted €5 though which was good.

Listened to the dogs and people in the forest on the opposite side of the valley to me, presumably hunting.

Someone was also randomly playing the trumpet somewhere too, which was slightly surreal.

Then later and through the night the owls and the stags mooing? Definitely not cows anyway.

Day 21 - 19.09.14
Namur to Nassogne, Belgium
12pm to 7pm
5hrs 10min cycling
66.4km
2554calories
1675 metres asc

A River Runs Through It - Day 20

Thursday 18th September 2014 - Up and out of room for 10am. Listened to two Aussie girls have a screaming match with each other in the room while I packed. One was sick, was in bed all day yesterday, the other didn't care and she was having a go at her.

Anyway, when I went downstairs to check out and get my bike I saw her and went over to see if she was ok.

Basically, they were friends and had lived and worked together, but the other one has turned a bit nasty now they're travelling together. She said she wasn't enjoying herself and that her friend has been bitching at her the last couple of weeks and hasn't got to do or see the things she wanted to see, as her friend didn't want to do them. She was in tears and wanted to go home. Told her to just go on herself, there's always people to talk to etc but she was too afraid of what might happen if she was alone.

I do enjoy travelling by myself, rather than with others, for the above reasons!

Waited to bring bike up from the depths of the building. No puncture, yey!

Cycled away around 11am, into the headache of the streets of Brussels.

Traffic, people, police, cycle lanes, directions, stop start sprinting, cobble stones, short sharp hills....

Arrrrggghhhhh.........not pleasant. Take me back to the country.

Stayed on the N4 out of the city. Hit a McDonald's just outside Overijse and stopped. For a long while. They had WiFi too.

It was hot. The dark clouds were forming in the distance.

Got my act together and headed toward Wavre, destination was Namur.

Cycle lanes just randomly stop now with no signs to where they restarted.

Had just gone down through an underpass and out the other side. 200 metres later the heavens opened.

I am not exaggerating when I say I was soaked to the skin in 30 seconds.

Quickly back to under the road, the tree I was under wasn't doing a good sheltering job at all.

Well it poured down. I was wet. My panniers were wet. I was cold.

Standing looking out at it, the thunder then started. The water started running into the tunnel from the other end.

Waited and hoped it would stop. Waited. Hoped.

Nope.

Nothing for it but to get wrapped up. Covers on panniers and go. There was a little river now formed along the length of the tunnel. Time to go.

Well, it continued to pish down and thunder. I was damp, and the wind was making me colder. Spray from the passing cars, spray from the puddles and water on the ground, flicking up from the bike tyres.

Maybe mudguards would've been good?!

Once I got over the fact everything was soaked through already, I just beat on as hard as I could. Cycle lanes now becoming a distant memory. No hard shoulder, cars flying past and I only had a few inches of the road.

Mud and cow poo from the fields were washed onto the road as well as the dirt off the road, flicking up over me and the bike. Hurmph!!

Anyway just tried to keep going as hard as I could so this day would be over.

Got caught twice more in the downpours. Grrrr.

Into Namur just as another heavy burst began, cycled through the dark rivered streets under the thunder & lightening looking for the hostel, for a refuge.

Found it. Dripping wet went in to get a room. Hostel room to myself €23, including brekkie.

Those covers for my panniers, well they had puddles of water on the inside where the bags were sitting in.
Everything was soaked through.

Got a shower and unpacked all my stuff to hang it round the room to try and dry off. Think I'll have to stay another night for them to be dry and for myself to recover!!

Used most of my cash to pay for room, so only had €5 left. Walked into town to get money out and some food. There was big music festival on in town. Lots of people all dolled up for a good night out, drinking. Music sounded good. Found a cash machine. They aren't as common in towns here as at home. Only at the banks, not at shops or petrol stations. Stood in the queue with the revellers for 20mins, hungry, waiting ... My turn. 'We cannot process your transaction at this time.' Rage.

Thats enough for today I think and just head back to hostel. On the way back near get run over at a crossing.  Bad street lighting, crap or no footpaths, so went along the river which was a walk nice.

3 mile round trip and still hungry.

Into bed. Tomorrow is a new day.

Day 20 - 18.09.14
Brussels to Namur, Belgium
11am to 7.30pm
4hrs 36min cycling
70.5km
2160calories
1225 metres asc

Battling to Brussels - Day 19

Wednesday 17th September 2014 - Got up to find little creatures had been eating my face during the night. Urgh. Went to reception to pay, then the shop for food.

Not much choice as end of season really, they had some fresh bread. Got a Danish pastry, er, wrong country, croissant, hmm and some bread pudding stuff which is a local thing.

Very heavy slice of dough like pastry made from eggs and cinnamon. It was ok, but very heavy and I couldn't eat it all. It, like the Danish, had rasins in it. Boke. I may consider stopping in Brussels to get the EU leaders to make a legislation banning rasins being put in any other foods. The birds got them, after I picked them out. Some oj for the vitamins too.

Tent dried out, showered, packed and away at 12.30pm. Another baking hot day again.

Easy enough to get out of Ghent. Was along a busy road though, cars and lorries are very loud. The cycle lanes were good, but really need to concentrate at junctions so that you're following the right ones. Very easy to just keep on going and not get to where you want to be. Stopped loads to check the map. Really don't want to have to back track at any stage.

Onto the N9 the whole way to Brussels. Busy enough road but cycle lane was of varying quality the whole way.

Not much to write about really. I took this main road to get to Brussels quicker than the country roads. It's boring though and busy. Hence not many photos of that day. Kinda like riding on an extended Lisburn Road out of Belfast all day, with a few countryside breaks in between.

So hot, at 5.30pm saw a temperature sign that said 32degrees! Dear knows what it was early afternoon.

No where really to stop. No benches parks etc. At one point where there were loadsa trees by the road side (near the wibdmill) there were about six dead doves in one 10 metres stretch. A couple of other, live ones, were jay walking, so I guess its the dove equivalent to an extreme sports area.

Stopped at lidl for some cheap food supplies. Lady said it was never this hot, it is unusual.

On to Brussels. Stayed on same road whole way in. Cycle lane in middle of tram lines and cars. Bit hectic through the Asian quarter, traffic, cars double parked, pulling out, people walking out in front of me, motorbikes whizzing by......

Right turn and straight to hostel/hotel. €28 for 10 bed dorm. Eh, what?? Said €15 dorm on internet, liars.

Washed myself and my clothes in the shower to save €5! Worked out pretty good. 50cents for the tumble dryer, but it worked without the coin anyway.

There was also a hairdryer in the room, ahhhh yessss!!

Place was pretty mad. Lots of people staying and milling about. Groups of friends, youth groups, travelers etc. Massive wide corridor, cool carpet with grey doors each side, felt a bit like a weird type of prison.

Kitchen was minging.

Cycle stored in cellar, down steep stairs, which was a bit of a tasks with heavy bags on it and slippy steps in SPD shoes ... broken glass all over floor. Please don't puncture.

Chatted to a couple of the Aussie lads in my dorm, then did drying and went to bar.

Then bed. Too hot!

Day 19 - 17.09.14
Ghent to Brussels, Belgium
1pm to 7pm
3hrs 56min cycling
61.2km
1576 calories
753 metres asc

'In Bruges'  - Day 18

Tuesday 16th September 2014 - So breakfast included in the costs of a night, great free(ish) food!!

Down to the usual continental brekkie spread of bread, meat, cheese etc. Had a couple of cheese sandwiches, first cup of tea since I left too, ahhhh so nice, but was only in one of those pretend cups that hold two mouthfuls. Pocketed a few cereal and cake bars for later too!

Checked out at 10am and had a ride round Oostende. It is really nice. It was sunny, then all of a sudden you could see the sea fog coming in.

Whilst stopped to check map on way out of town, I saw out of the corner of my eye that someone had also stopped just behind me. They were hovering. I looked up and smiled at the man who had stopped and was also on his bike.

He said something I didn't understand, so I asked if he spoke English. Anyway, he was interested to know what I was doing. Where I was from and going to. He would've been maybe in his late 50s I reckon. He said he'd always wanted to go on a tour by bicycle, but he was too afraid and his wife said it was too dangerous! Also, turns out his daughter married an Irish man and she lives and is the principle of a school in Cavan. Ha, small world!

Anyway, found the canal to Brugge. It was cyclist, runners etc only on both sides, no cars, all the way. Awesome!

So quiet and peaceful being in the countryside again and no traffic whizzing by. Nice smooth flat tarmac too.

Saw a dead cow in a field so had to stop and go back. The squeaking of my bike as I wheeled it back down the path disturbed it. It was just sleeping, flat out in the field. It did look like it'd died, as there was only it there. It kinda looked at me in disgust for waking it up.

Had those bars from breakfast too, mmm some local cake thing they have. It was cinnamony and yummy.

Into Brugge, nice. Love the film too, if you haven't seen it, it's very funny.

Caught a glimpse of the tower through the streets which looked class. Into the main square - people, bikes, cars, horses, everywhere.

Madness and mayhem compared to the tranquil canal path I'd just come from.

Had planned to go up the tower, sit at a cafe etc, but in the end I just took a few pics and got going again. Too much going on.

On to Ghent. Along another canal, nice.

Was getting a bit thirsty, as I didn't stop in Brugge. Low and behold a vision appeared in front of me. Randomly, on the side of the path was a vending machine! Oddness, but very welcome. Nice chilled bottled of orange fanta €1.60, next bench along the path, sit down quench my thirst, relax and listen to the birds and the bees for a while!

They were doing some roadworks along part of the path, so had to detour to the other side of the canal. Which then turned from tarmac into gravel. Then into a grass track!!

I just kept on going though, flicked the suspension forks on and merrily pedalled along. It eventually came back to tarmac.

This meant though I was on the wrong side of the water coming into Ghent for the campsite.

Took a while to find bridge to cross. Then crossed the town through some nice park, nature reserve place. Lots of green areas in the towns.

Found the campsite. It was in a massive sports area. Rowing lake, velodrome, bmx track, squash, climbing wall etc etc

Nice enough. Cheap enough. Shop closed. No food. Tired. Hot. Its been really stuffy and hot and humid last couple of days too, which takes its toll on me. I am used to the cooler climates of home for cycling in.

Lay down after putting tent up and didn't, couldn't, move until morning!

Thought the group of lads next to me were throwing things at my tent in the middle of the night - but it was just the oak trees dropping their nuts on top of me!

I also fell asleep with tent door open and only realised in the morning there was a gap between the two zips on the fly screen inner tent part as well.

That would explain the hideous collection of bites on my face the next morning then!!

Day 18 - 16.09.14
Oostende to Ghent, Belgium
11am to 6pm
4hrs 29min cycling
76.6km
1868calories
612 metres asc

Into Belgium - Day 17

Monday 15th September 2014 - Eventually left the campsite. Wanted to wait and make sure tent was completely dry before packing up as I'd be staying in a hostel tonight. Probably for next few nights too. Not many campsites I could see on the map and apparently 'wild' camping isn't allowed either.

Passed the poor goats and hens on the way out. They really did live in a bit of a dump, literally beside the bins area. No grass or water.

Found a quieter inland road that ran beside a river/canal. It was straight and smooth and sunny with only a bit of headwind.

Got excited when I could see the blue sign in the distance for Belgium border. Stopped and got the obligatory photo as I crossed. Yey, out of France finally!!

New country and nearly instantly onto really good proper cycle lanes. They were everywhere. So were the cyclists. Not just people out exercising, but lots of people just going about their daily business, by bike! Most were in their 40s and 50s as well.

Followed a road for a while that the tram ran down the centre, cars either side and cycle lanes on the side of the roads. Anytime the cycle lanes crossed a road, there were either bike traffic lights, or the cars had to give way. Wow. All very ordered and neat and tidy. My OCD was happy.

So this part of Belgium they speak Flemish. Its kinda like Dutch, but slightly different and impossible to understand a word of it!

I also hadn't downloaded a map of Belgium, so was just following signs to Oostende, as I knew there was a hostel there I was aiming for.

Main road into Oostende was along the coast. The amount of sand swirling about and big patches on the cycle lane was a bit gritty on the eyes. Onto the promenade about 5pm and rode along it in the evening sun.

Loads of people about. All the bars and restaurants all packed and everyone drinking beer. Its true then!

Didn't have a clue where I was meant to go. Signs in Flemish. Found a billboard map, but was all in Flemish. Argh. Right ride round town a few times....

Eventually find the tourist info centre and go in to ask where hostel is. Fab, it's just 200 metres down the street beside it!!

Nice hostel, modern, new, clean and bike storage. Ended up with a big dorm to myself.

Hadn't eaten much all day soooo.... new country, must be pizza night! Didn't want to walk far so saw a Pizza Hut and plonked myself down for a feed. Beer of course too, lovely!!

Id noticed the people didnt really smile much, or look that friendly. However, once you started talking they all spoke great English and were really friendly and chatty. Asked the waitress a few Flemish words, hello, please and thank you, as I think its a bit rude being in a country and not at least trying to speak their language!

Back to hostel for first night in a bed, indoors, since I left. Aleady a bit trapped feeling, especially as the window only opened a teeny tiny bit.

Another lady came into dorm later. We chatted for a good bit and I found out Ian Paisley died. That's the thing with travelling, you never hear any news. Which kinda makes the world a better place when you aren't constantly bombarded with all the bad things in it!!

Day 17 - 15.09.14
Dunkerque to Oostende, Belgium
12.30pm to 6pm
4hrs 2min cycling
55.2km
1268calories
572 metres asc

Rest Day Dunkerque - Day 16

Sunday 14th September 2014 - Was in two minds last night whether to go to Belgium this morning.

Woke up and really didn't want to get out of my sleeping bag - it is Sunday after all, I think. I lost track of days a while ago.

Just went and paid for two nights. €8 a night, so why not.

Back to tent to lie down again.

Went to supermarket, 15 minute walk away. Only had a handful of jelly beans and some chewing gum left. Big bag of food for €9.

Back to tent to lie down again.

Has some lunch in tent.

Lie down again.

Went and did some clothes washing and charged phone while I waited.

Back to tent to lie down again.

First major disaster of the trip - broke a flip flop. Rage.

Fed the goats and hens.

Back to tent to lie down again.

Went a walk along the seafront for an hour and a half. Wore pumps I wasn't going to bring, but jammed them in last minute before leaving. Now have blisters on my feet.

Back to tent to lie down again.

Still windy.

Early night and hopefully feel more energetic in the morning....

Fighting the Wind Head On to Calais and Dunkerque - Day 15

Saturday 13th September 2014 - BANG, BANG-BANG, BANG! Look at watch, urgh 7.30am and they're out shooting. Roll over for another hours snooze, with the random shots being fired, I presume on the lake, a few hundred metres away.

8am Actually, earphones in to listen to a bit of Disclosure.

9am Write up blog. Put power pack on charge. Usually takes overnight to fully charge, but got to take the opportunity of electricity when I can.

10am Wind starts up again, bringing some big dark clouds. Hopefully they'll just keep getting blown on by.

11am Half packed up. Waiting on tent drying while watching the toilet block where battery is charging. Phone now down to 25%.

Time is ticking away.

Tick tock tick tock.

Hurry. Up.

I don't like waiting on things. Hence why I'm always bang on time, or a little late for things, as then you never have to wait on anyone else.

Dislikeage of the phaffage.

Eventually leave at 12.30pm. Lots of people everywhere, cars parked all through town and several fields after it too, must have been lots of marathon competitors this morning.

As per usual, climb out of town, into next village, and up and out of it again. Excellent views mind you, but the wind, waowee!! Even the seagulls were lying in the fields like flocks of sheep.

Along the climbs were some signs for the marathoners - Go For It, Don't Wobble, Just Wiggle, Last Climb until the Next One. Mildly entertaining.

At the top of the last climb there was a group of many mopeds. They all went off at one time, got some video. Something nice to watch as I recharged.

Down into Calais. Pedal down the hill into the wind, along the flat, into the wind. Sigh.

Nothing much interesting in Calais. Took a photo of the lighthouse. Cycled past the ferry terminals with the high fences everywhere. Lots of people 'hanging around'! It was easy enough to get through and had a few cycle lanes.

Out the other side. Through the dock/industrial area and I took a turn early, before I should have. Passed a dog agility training centre, which the dogs seemed to be loving.

There were lots of people now milling about here. The further I went down the road the more of them there were. Got to a bit were there were trees and bushes and they seemed to be living in them and washing at a standpipe. I smiled at a couple of the ladies who smiled back and ignored the shouts from the guys.

I don't think I was going slow enough to inherit any extra unknown passengers?!

The next bit was horrible. All I'm gonna say is I don't like cycling into a head wind, all day. Its tiring, like grinding continually up a hill, all day. The noise of the wind is deafening, can't hear traffic coming until its beside you, therefore can't relax, all day.

Got to Gravelines and stopped at tourist info, as didn't look like a simple way across to Dunkerque. She said by bike you have to go out to Bourbourg and follow canal to Dunkerque. Detour alert!

Anyway, windy, slow, boring, will I ever get there, was the next several hours. Today was meant to be an easy few km along the coast. Into campsite mid afternoon, do some washing, chill out etc, but no.

Dunkerque didn't impress upon me. It was 7.30pm. There are lots of tower blocks. Eventually found campsite. Tent up for 8pm. Bust.

Down to bar onsite. Hot chips and tuna and mayo sandwich. Then went to bed. The tent was flapping furiously in the wind. Just no getting away from it today at all.

Earphones in, Egypt by Air - 3 Cities (thanks Neil) up full blast to block out the noise. Feel asleep a few tracks in.

**Lots of photos on the Facebook page - https://m.facebook.com/jojourneystheworld

Day 15 - 13.09.14
Wissant to Dunkerque
12.30pm to 7.30pm
4hrs 58min cycling
74.6km
1786calories
580 metres asc

Last day in France? - Day 14

Friday 12th September 2014 - Up, packed away ringing wet tent and rolled out at 7.30am. Another free nights camping, awesome!

Cycling this time of morning the sun was only coming up, giant red fireball in the sky. All the fields with low lying mist being burnt off. Was beautiful start to the day. It was very cold though, brrrr.

With such an early start, I was thinking I could aim for Calais or even Dunkirk today. Then this would be the last day in France, woohoo!

Cycled through the morning chillyness to Etaples and stopped for brekkie.

Then on to Boulogne sur Mer. Nice cycle path into town, along the river. Had loads of cool outdoor seating areas made out of wood. Massive picnic tables, sun loungers, dining tables and chairs.

Up past the harbour, then the beach, then the climb out of town.

Wind again.

Slow going for next while through Wimereux, Ambleteuse etc. Still on the D940.

Eventually about 2pm I'd decided I'd had enough of being blown sideways and fighting to keep the bike straight and pedalling down the hills. I'll stop at Wissant. Municipal camping by a lake there looks nice.

Got there at 3pm, reception didn't open until 5pm. I could cycle for another two hours.....

Manager came up to me and said to go and put up tent anywhere and come back at 5pm to pay.

Decision made.

Bit of a scrapy site. Loads of old caravans about, some look like they've not been used in a while. Was ok though, found a quiet spot and got the tent up to dry in the sun. Water was still running off it when I unrolled it.

Power pack needs charged. Used the last bit to charge up Garmin to 27%, hopefully should last me for tomorrow. Phone at 11%. Will ask manager if he can charge it, as only the big round electrics for campervans here.

5pm went to pay and head into town to pick up some food. Manger guy was a bit of a crazy! He only charged me €5 for the night though, which was fab. Into town, powerkites out on the water, yes its that windy on the roads too!

Lots of buzz and people about, expo being set up in main square. Marathon on tomorrow, maybe I'll give it a whirl...oh wait, I've no trainers with me, ah shame!

Back at tent. Phone still needs charged. Hmm...maybe I could stick plug into shaver socket in the bogs, if they have any.....

They did and I did and it worked. Although the 230v side charges your phone in half the time as the 120v!

That's me happy. Dry tent, food in my belly and a charged phone. Wind starting to die down too. That is all. Goodnight!

Day 14 - 12.09.14
Stella-Plage to Wissant
7.30am to 3pm
3hrs 59min cycling
58km
1695calories
846 metres asc

Lovin It - Day 13

Thursday 11th September 2014 - Eventually left campsite at 12pm. Let the tent dry out before packing it up for a change. Nice day, cool enough breeze though thankfully. Legs liked being back spinning again. The walk into town yesterday, they felt a bit mushy.

As usual, steady long climb out if Le Treport. After about 20km there was a cycle path. Separate from road by trees. It was lovely. Smooth wide, quite sheltered. Passed a few other cyclists out on their fold up bikes from the various campsite close by.

This lane went on for a good while. Its beside the D940 road toward Pinchefalise.

Was merrily cycling along think this is great, but you don't really pass any shops. I could be doing with a boulangerie stop soon. Then from behind the trees the golden arches appeared. This is probably only the second one I've seen since being in France.

So I did it. I stopped and had a dirty McDonalds. Although, to be fair as it wasn't busy, they had to make my order fresh and then brought it out to me. Ashamed to say, it tasted like real food!

Finished off the Chicken Mystic and fries (with ketchup and mayo - its Europe), washed down with orange fanta.

Feeling full and happy, jumped back on the bike for a few more km of cycleways. One part was set below the road beside a river, which was lovely. Quite a few cyclists here too pottering up and down.

Headed through Rue. Lovely old town, with big stone church in center. Stopped on way through to get some cash out. The €7 for McDonalds was tonights campsite money.

Took a few back roads as had spied camping on the map just outside Conchil-le-Temple. Passed through some marshland area with lots of birds. Then two lovely horses in a field.

Great day on bike, not too many hills, easy cycle paths, cooler weather. I've been wearing my arm warmers now, to cut the wind chill and cover up from the sun.

On target for stopping at 6pm, I rolled in to the reception to pay for a pitch.

The lady behind the counter said no. They don't have tent camping. Argh...

So, restart Garmin and for the next hour and a half I cycled 26km looking for a campsite that allowed tents, not just mobile homes.

After trying the closest 3 and no joy, I decided to go to Camping de la mer in Stella-Plage. I had seen the town on the map and looked pretty cool the way the roads were laid out. The sun was setting. Just coming down to the sea and it was straight in front of me. Lovely end to the day.

This Stella place was weird. Proper ghost town. Houses and apartments everywhere, but all closed up, no one to be seen. Only a few people in the only open restaurant.

Heading to the campsite, usual campervans all parked up on the road to it.

Thought, perfect end to the day, just get in before dark, right beside the sea......the gates were locked and it was being taken over by the looming sand dunes.

What?!! Argghh.... Stopped and talked to some Germans at one of their campers. Had a bit if banter with them and got told there was a campsite a few streets away.

Back up the road I went in search. 6th campsite tonight. Reception closed. Mobile homes. Very deadly quiet.

Went to use their toilets and also fill up bottles with water, all prepared to go back and camp in the dunes.

A lady walked past, English woman. Said she hasn't seen any tents on site and reception doesn't open to 9am.

There were a couple of empty plots and there was one beside her and her husband's caravan, so just stuck the tent up there. Sculked about the laundry room charging phone from the iron socket. Then into bed for 9pm....so many mobile homes, so few people, so weird, so quiet, so lovely!

Day 13 - 11.09.14
Le Treport to Stella-Plage
12pm to 8pm
5hrs 10min cycling
85.4km
2121calories
743 metres asc

Le Treport Rest Day - Day 12

Wednesday 10th September 2014
Washing
Walk
WiFi
Water
Wasted
Weak
Windy
Wonderful
Westful (?!)

Garmin Says You're Too Slow - Day 11

Tuesday 9th September 2014 - Up early as wanted to be packed up before it was light. Everything was soaking with that mist. Ready and pushed bike back to carpark about 7.15am, just as the farmer came into the field beside me in his tractor to spray his cabbages.

Ate the rest of the chocolate biscuits from yesterday in the car park, while watching my surroundings reveal themselves in the light on a new day.

A man in his late 50s maybe, with a white handlebar mustache, bald head and Harley Davidson hoodie came up past me from the beach. He was walking a blue Staffordshire terrier.

I said the usual bonjour, then so did he. I said hello to his dog and then he realised I wasn't French. We stood and chatted for about 45 minutes. He was here with his wife along with about 40 others in their campervans. He'd just been walking the dog on the beach, which apparently has a wreck of a ship at it. His dog was lovely. I miss my dogs.

Cycled off into the chilly morning air. Stopped at a boulangerie for a ham and cheese baguette with a tin of oj. Loved it, nom nom.

On and on and on.
Up down up down.
Village farm land village farm land.

My Garmin cycle computer auto pauses whenever I stop at any time. Today it was auto pausing when I was climbing several hills.

Computer says no - too slow.

Eventually decided to just get onto the D road. A lot busy but faster. You know its windy when the place is covered with enormous wind turbines everywhere.

Cycled through Criel-sur-Mer. Didn't like their campsites and headed on to Le Treport.

Looked like coast road on the map, in actually fact it was straight up the side of the cliff. Had a fab marker post at the top with amazing views. Then fun descent down the other side into the town.

Municipal camping in the centre of town for €7 a night & €5 bag of food in super market opposite. Bargain city.

And relax.

Day 11 - 09.09.14
Veules-les-Roses to Le Treport
8.30am to 3.30pm
4hrs 38min cycling
60.5km
1819calories
929 metres asc

Crossing La Seine (Not in Paris) - Day 10

Monday 8th September 2014 - Apparently ducks and their other feathered friends don't actually sleep at night. Heard them bickering with each other at various stages through the night.

Opened the tent to a think mist, but followed my nose to the reception to pick up my bread order. Came back, got the stove on and ate them wrapped up in my sleeping bag, with a cup of instant coffee.

Today I would cross the river Seine. Don't know how and don't know when.

There was a bridge just north from where I was, about 15km away on a D road. Which is kinda like a major road, just below a dual carriageway.

Bit of a steep wee climb before getting onto it, then blasted as hard as I could toward the bridge. As I got closer, it looked bigger. Way bigger than a bridge that would allow bicycles across.

Yep, got to the junction and it became a motorway. No! Looked at map and the next crossing was about a 30km detour. Bummer, sun was starting to get hot.

Nothing for it but go. Next several hours slogging it out through the relentless heat, past fields and fields with only the odd house. Then came the hills again, thankfully under the shade of trees now, as I followed along the river. Some amazing big beautiful houses too along the banks.
Got to Pont de Brotonne and again from a distance looked a bit mental. Like an upsidedown U - steep up and steep down.

Stopped and asked a French woman on a bike if bicycles were allowed to cross and she babbled away to me, but essentially the answer was yes.

Right, gotta go for it. Coming up to the bridge was a cycle lane. Good sign. It then actually continued the whole way over the bridge. One lane for cars and lorries and one for tractors and bikes. Awesome. Don't have to detour to Paris to cross after all.

Rest of day was long and slow and hot. Keep reminding myself I'm not in a race, I can go slow if I want to.

But I wanted to get back to the coast. Aiming for Yvetot then on to Veules-les-Roses.

In Yvetot, I stopped at a supermarket for food, as hadn't eaten or drunk enough water all day again. Got some chocolate biscuits, water and a bottle of yogurt drink.

Once I'd downed the yogurt drink and had half the packet of biscuits, I was off again. Chasing the sun.

Worked out if I put the foot down I could make V-l-Roses about 8.30pm, just before dark. I had lights with me, wee dopey ones, but didn't plan on cycling at night anyway. Pressure was on.

A few km later, my tummy started gurgling. Then I got a wave of chills. Then goosebumps.

Oh shit!

Not sure if it was the dodgy water from campsite, over exertion, heat exhaustion, too much sun or that yogurt drink, but a crisis was emerging.

Flat open countryside. Farmers ploughing fields. Clump of trees in the distance. Pedal pedal pedal. Gurgle, shiver.

I made the trees, scrambled up the bank through the brambles, not worrying about the cuts to my legs and arms, to relief.

I love wet wipes.

So, sun was going down fast, another 10km to go. Eventually I had to use my head torch on front bag and turned rear red light on just outside the town.

Into Veules-les-Roses in the dark at 9pm. More one way streets. Then steep climb to campsite. I actually had to get off and push this time.

Campsite closed for night. Hmmm

Other side of the road was a car park on the cliff, presumably for viewing the view. I didn't view it.

What to do. Well there's no one in the car park. Looked at map and there was a coastal walking path along the cliff. So followed it a good distance from the car park and put up my tent. Sleeping bag out and went to bed.

It was awesome. I could see the lights from the town below and the red flashing lights of the 6 wind turbines above on the other side. I could hear the owls and the booming of the waves below, I eventually got some kip as a thick sea mist began to creep in over me.

Free camping at its best.

Day 10 - 08.09.14
Pont-Audemer to Veules-les-Roses
12pm to 9pm
6hrs 34min cycling
103.8km
3091calories
1327 metres asc

Hot Sun and HILLS - Day 9

Sunday 7th September 2014 - First item on agenda today is shower. Found a wee green dude on my pannier covers this morning, must be into yellow, left him there to chill out while I scrubbed.

Quick internet use at reception where the WiFi only was, then pedalled off at 11am.

3km later stopped at a boulangerie and had my first croissant. Yummy yummy in my tummy.

Back on the road and the plan was to head inland, as the closest bridge at Honfleur was a motorway, so planned to aim for Lisieux, then cross bridge north of Pont-Audemer.

So it was pedal village to village. Each having a nice downhill into it, then a straight up climb out of it. Again and again and again. I was lovely countryside though. Hardly any traffic, great scenery and all.

It was hot. I know I've said the last few days were hot, but inland it was oven hot. You know when you open the oven door and you get that hot whaft of air in your face - that was what day 9 was all about.

Best village I went through was Beuvron-en-Auge. Out of nowhere, turned a corner and was in the middle of an amazing wee village, with lots of flowers, stripy house and people having lunch outside at various restaurants and cafes. It was only one street and the hum of French chatter echoing around was nice.

If I was clean and appropriately dressed, it would've been nice to stop and pretend to be a civilised person for an hour or two!

But I was sweaty, in cycle clothes and had heat rash down both arms and hands, so I went on.

Lots more big stripy houses, farmhouses and barns. Lots of fields with horses and foals. Then passed a horse reproduction unit....

So anyway the rest of the day was the same....hiiilllllsssss. They'd be fine on a cool day at home on a light well oiled road bike. But hauling the bags, the full suspension mountain bike (even when both are locked out, still have some give), a wobbly back wheel, which is like trying to control a wild snake and no water (argh, again), it was slow going.

High point of the day though was when my cleavage saved a butterfly. There aren't any hedgerows and the fields come up to the roads. There are lots of cabbage white butterflies everywhere. They are a bit kamikaze and tend to fly out in front of me just as I pass.

On a straight fast downhill part, one did just that, smashed its face into my glasses and knocked itself out. I thought it might have gone down my open cycle top. Quick look as lots of traffic but didn't see it. Felt like a murderer. A few km later, felt a flutter in my chest, thought I could possibly be having a heart attack - or heat stroke. Pulled over, and the butterfly had resurrected itself, crawled up and out if my top and flew off to freedom (or to be hit and killed by a car). Awww....I'm not a butterfly murderer after all. Feel good.

Through Lisieux. Cobblestones, urgh. Cobblestone steep climb outta town, double urgh.

Stopped at Cormeilles for food, as had nothing since croissant and pain au chocolate in the morning. Saw. A. Sign. For. PIZZA!! Waaaahay.

Walked in and man says non. They start at 6pm. It was 5pm. Well don't flipping put your sign out and open your shop mister until 6pm then, sigh.

Had another croissant from the boulangarie next door and a can of coke.

That got me to Pont-Audemer. Campsite was beside a nature reserve and lake with lots of ducks and geese and birds. It was lovely. Ordered bread again for the morning when checking in.

Another night of tuna and pasta and into bed to let nature lull me to sleep.

I keep forgetting to mention that with all the sun I get during the day (even with wearing factor 15) my arms are like my own natural electric blanket. Nothing like a bit of radiation whilst camping to keep me toasty warm all night.

Day 9 - 07.09.14
Ouistreham to Pont-Audemer
11am to 7pm
5hrs 40min cycling
92.6km
2713calories
1071 metres asc

Normandie Coast Sightseeing - Day 8

Saturday 6th September 2014 - Up and packed stuff away. Wet tent, yuck! Left at 10.30am.

First stop of the day was the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-mer. Up a long smooth flat boulevard, with trees on both sides creating nice dappled shade.

Bike lane right round to beside the entrance and visitor centre. Finding this is the great thing about cycling places, you literally can park at the door of shops, pull in at side of road to take photos and sometimes get your own traffic free smooth lane.

Anyway locked up the bike at the bike parking area and headed in. By passed the visitor center. On the rules board it said about being respectful, no eating, being quiet etc.

So on I walked....click-crunch, click-crunch, click-crunch on the pathway that had a covering of small gravel. Trying to walk on the sides of my shoes past all the other people. No SPD cycling shoes maybe should be added to that list.

Anyway, it was a lovely tranquil setting, but when you walk up towards all the white crosses in the grass, its really striking. Just imagining each on a person. Quite sad really.

Had a mooch about, then the bus loads started arriving so I left. As I was unlocking bike, two guys that had just arrived by bike came over.

Turns out they were cycling from London to Barcelona. They had also done the Mongol Rally, something I've always had an eye on doing, so it was good to hear their experience of that too. A good half hour or so later, we said our goodbyes. They said they'd been told it was €9 entry, I said I'd just walked in and to do the same and enjoy their visit - as much as you can in a cemetery, hmm.

On the bike and next stop was Longues-sur-mer for the gun battery. The following is plagiarism....

Longues-sur-Mer is the only coastal defence battery on theLanding Beaches to be classed as a Historical Monument.

A major construction in the Atlantic Wall, this battery had an artillery command post and four bunkers, each with a 150mm gun permanently in place. Located in the middle of the assault sector and on top of a cliff overlooking the Channel, it played a strategic part in the Allied Landings of 6th June 1944.

Today, it is the only battery still to retain its original guns. Located between Arromanches and Omaha Beach, it affords a panoramic view over the Landing Beaches.

It was pretty cool and hot at the same time.

Right sight seeing done, I want to try and get as far along the coast as I could.

It was hot, I had no water (again), my bike still has its wobbly wheel, it was hot, kept stopping every few km to look at map, hoping I'd magically got further than I had. There were cars, lots of close fast cars. It was hot. Motorbikes. On I went.

I did stop at a supermarche and got two packets of ham&cheese sandwiches for €1 each and a bottle of water for 22cents, last of the big spenders me.

Then I got to Courseulles-sur-mer. Head melt of a seaside town. Couldn't get out of it with all its stupid one way streets and circular roads. It also stank of fish. Not fresh fish, but rancid old rotting fish and smelly sea. Don't know how all the people sitting outside at the cafes could eat their baguettes without vomiting.

Finally made a successful escape and kept going on down the road to Colleville-Montgomery, just beside Ouistreham.

Campsite was okay. Mainly mobile homes, camping pitches were on the sites that there were no mobile homes any more. I felt like a gypo among the houses. Men were playing boules beside reception.

Wee kids kept cycling past all evening. Then, as I was in my tent, they cycled right up to my bike and sat staring at it. I looked out of tent and they fled. Clearly the lack of use of a mirror I've had may be having an effect on people, or just small children.

So settled in for a nights sleep, listening to the cackles of a woman who had had a little to much vino and the snuffles of a dog at my tent, while the man owner tried to call it away quietly shouting at it in French.

I must shower in the morning if the dogs are getting interested in me!

Day 8 - 06.09.14
Omaha Beach to Ouistreham
10.30pm to 5pm
3hrs 30min cycling
58.5km (maybe more as forgot to start garmin after cemetery stop)
1560calories
582 metres asc

Elephants Roam Free In France - Day 7

Friday 5th September 2014 - Sometime in the early morning. It's dark and quiet. I'm fast asleep, tucked up in my sleeping bag, in my little tent.

Bam! Then wide awake.

What was that that just ran past my head??!! Lie still. Listen. Don't breathe too loud. Don't move.

Thunder thunder thunder. An actual elephant is stomping round my tent. Its actually inside, running around outside the inner tent part that I'm securely zipped into.

Ok, so everything that happens in the dark, at night, is always grossly exaggerated! It was only a little mouse I reckon, looking for more pizza. I listened to it biz round for a while and tapped the tent where I heard it stop, it squeaked and ran off. I went to sleep. It came back a few times again, but I let it do its mousey thing and caught up on my zzzzzzs.

So anyway, morning came, time to get back on le velo. Eventually left about 12.30pm! It was a hazy cloudy morning and I was thinking it'd be perfect cycling weather, not too hot.

As soon as I cycled away from the campsite, what do ya know, the sun came out, full on!

Was lovely cycle for first few hours, quiet country flat roads, sea breeze, beautiful. A thought that had occurred to me last night, as I lay in bed, came into my mind again this morning....I wonder how many dead bodies are in the fields I'm sleeping on/passing by?

Along the route today there were loadsa museums of WW history. They also had massive banner sized photos of buildings then, what they looked like when destroyed, and they were hung in front of the buildings now they are rebuilt. Thought it was quite a good visual way of seeing the past, there was one particularly good one of a church.

Stopped at Utah Beach, one of the landing sites of the Americans. Saw a few tanks and guns and stuff. Quite busy. Didn't go into museum, although it looked pretty new.

On down the road for a while longer. Onto a busier road. There are lots and lots of motorbikers. Usually a group of 6-10 come past on their big Harleys or fast racing type bikes. They're pretty good as I can hear them well before they come past me, especially the blupblupblupblup of the Harleys. The first biker will usually do swerves and then the last one will do them too. Happened a few times, so not sure if its some sort of secret biker signal I'm not in the know about?

Shortish day. Got to campsite at Omaha Beach at 4.30pm. There was a place at the end of the road that had all the old guns and boats and stuff as well.

A guy came up to me when I arrived and in the few words of English he had, I made out I could camp anywhere and reception wasn't open until 5pm. He also wanted my passport. As I went to cycle off he was a like 'Non non non!' I stopped and laughed and he tried to explain he needed my passport. I knew what he was meaning, but he was getting very annoyed with himself that he couldn't find the right English words. It was quite funny. I gave him my passport and said, 'now you run off with it?!' and laughed. He laughed and said it'd be in reception at 5pm (in French of course).

Weirdness continued. Strange campsite. Pretty big. Hedges round each pitch. Quite empty. Some mobile homes. Heard of miniature goats grazing in a pitch and their pen seemed to be an old bunker. Clouds came back and was really really eerily calm and quiet.

Anyway got sorted. Listened to a French couple in their 60's have a domestic, hehe. Then later listened to my old next door neighbours French TV game show, at top volume!

Went to shop and first night I cooked dinner. 3 minute pasta and a tin of tuna with mayo and vegetables. Lovely!

Was also able to charge my power pack, put it in dry bag and left it out all night, worked grand and stayed dry even with the sea mist.

Its working out really well. Can charge my phone about 5 times and my Garmin a couple of times from it, before it needs recharged.

At about 10pm it was so very quiet. I had a great nights sleep.

Day 7 - 05.09.14
Saint Hubert to Omaha Beach
12.30pm to 4.30pm
3hrs 20min cycling
57.7km
1539calories
469 metres asc

Dilemma Day - Day 6

Thursday 4th September 2014 - Woke up this morning feeling fine, oh what a great trip this is of mine!

Hmm....should I stay or should I go?

The soaking dewed up tent and the pile of wet clothes I'd washed the night before told me to stay for the day.

Breakfast next. Oh, that pizza from the night before. Opened the lid of the box and something had been having a midnight feast of it and just left the crusts. Clearly a straight haired, smooth chested being.

Ah well, down to the shop and got my favourite pain au lait and ate the whole bag of them with a litre of oj. Nice way to start the day.

Didn't really do much the rest of the day, did this blog and a bit of Facebooking. Had a wee cycle down the road to Ravenoville. How speedy was I on my none bagged bike...it is still making that odd noise. I think it might be the rear wheel.

Looked at the map to see where I'll head the next few days. Defo going to stop at some of the historic sites along the coast.

Packed my gear up and planning an earlyish start, well as soon as the tent dries that is. Going to have to wear gloves tomorrow though, as I have got that irritating itchy prickly heat rash on the backs of my hands due to too much sun.

Sun has set now and its getting chilly, so going to hit the hay soon.

The Perfect Cycling Day - Day 5

Wednesday 3rd September 2014 - Up early, had some scrambled egg and toast and went up outside on the top of the ship to watch as we came into Cherbourg port.

11.30am and down to the car deck, repacked my stuff and then decided to wait until the millions of campers and caravans went off the boat, before getting on my way. I didn't want to be responsible for holding them all up on the road out of Cherbourg!

At the passport hut, I saw some other cyclists. They had left the boat before me and one was wheeling two bicycles off. Then a few minutes later, a lost looking cyclist was wandering around. I asked if he'd lost his bike and that the others had left with it, so he went on to catch them up.

I stoped and showed my passport, while the French policeman looked at me, then my passport, then at me, then my passport.... he did let me into the country thankfully.

I pulled over to chat to the guys, as they'd been there all the time I was in the queue. Apparently one of the guys left his passport in their backup car, still on the ship, so had to run back to get it.

Turns out there were eight of them from Belfast. They had also cycled down to Rosslare and were planning on cycling to Paris. None of them were cyclists, but they were doing about 70miles a day and seemed to be enjoying it. They were doing it in aid of a Northern Ireland Cancer charity, to raise money and remember their friend who had died of cancer last year. They were young fellas in their early twentys. I wished them luck and reminded them (and myself) to cycle on the right hand side of the road.

So, imagine the perfect cycling day....blue sky, sunshine, warm air, cool breeze in the shade, green fields, rolling hills, trees, rivers, zipping through the countryside on two wheels. That's what the next couple of hours was like. It was bliss. Corn fields, big stone French farmhouses with French shutters and perfect French gardens, cows, probably also French, chilling in their sunny fields, ahhh it was lovely.

It was hot. I also saw my first EuroVelo sign.

I stopped at a little picnic area in a wee village beside a small river. I was down to half a bottle of water and needed to eat something. The free popcorn from Rosslare hit the spot. They were yummy, Lemon's Sour Cream and Black Pepper yum, I'll be getting them again when I'm home.

Just as I was getting ready to go I saw the Belfast boys pass, in the opposite direction toward Cherbourg. Hmm...I'm not sure if they were lost.

On I went thinking I'll just stop and get water at the next place I see. I didn't pass anywhere or any houses and had a steep climb for 40 minutes in the blazing sun.

Quick look at map and I thought another 10km to a petrol station, I'll stop there.

Got there and thought its not that far to the campsite, I'll just keep going. Going on a busy wide road with no shade. Things aren't going so great when you enjoy licking the sweat off your own face for the salt.

Anyway I hit the coast. Strong wind coming off the sea, but it was nice. Made the campsite at 4pm.

No shops around, but they had a takeaway pizza bar opening at 6pm and a small convenience store. Score!

Tent up, lay down for a snooze, then up to get fooooood.

Ham & mushroom pizza and two tins of beer for dinner. However, shockingly, I couldnt eat all the pizza and left half a tin of beer. Seriously what is the matter with me??? Well that's breakfast sorted anyway!!

Day 5 - 03.09.14
Cherbourg to Saint Hubert
11.30am to 4.00pm
3hrs 23min cycling
50km
1441 calories
643 asc
632 des