Walking the West Highland Way - Day 7

Day 7

Sunday 1st May 2016 It rained all night, but the plus side to rain are the clouds that cover the earth, like a fluffy blanket and keep it warm, well warmer than the last couple of nights at least. It continued to rain all morning. I hoped it would go over for a bit to get the tent down, but no such luck. The ground was squelchy so everything had to be taken out and brought over to the tables under the shelter, before I could take it down. I hung it up in the drying room and got my breakfast and packed up, but it was still drenched, so rolled it up and got on my way.

Short walk through the village to the other side, then up a steep winding path through the trees. Certainly got the heart rate up, some layers also had to come off. Nice view looking back to Kinlochleven from the top.

After this it was just one long walk on a wide old military road through the Glen, past a ruin of a house, on further then round a corner, through some forest, then descending on wide gravel forest roads down to Glen Nevis.

It was raining all day. It was a very monotonous day. The mist was down and the path was nothing special. Even the sight of Ben Nevis wasn't exciting. I just wanted this to be over. My feet were on fire.

After reaching the main road and walking along the footpath toward Fort William, the rain started to lash down. The signage was also very poor, as there was a car park and the WHW symbol on the walking path signs. I followed this and it brought me up a really steep hill above Fort William town and I had to guess where to try and come down to get into the town. Not the end I was hoping for.

Anyway, finally made it into Fort William, checked into the Alexandra Hotel. Thawed out and scrubbed the WHW dirt off me before heading down to the restaurant to have a mighty fine steak and beer.

I got the train back to Glasgow the next morning. Trainers discarded in the hotel room bin, I splashed my way across the wet road in my flipflops to the train station. My feet loved being cool & free!!

NB The train back to Glasgow from Fort William is stunning. Do it!

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Walking the West Highland Way - Day 6

Day 6

Saturday 30th April 2016 BBBBBBBRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!

Coldest night I've ever had in a tent. I ended up having to get up and boil some water at 5am to make a hot drink to warm myself up. The tent would hardly open as it had frozen solid. The ground outside was white and frozen. I was probably just as white and also felt frozen. I had about 7 layers on, in my sleeping bag, in a bivvy bag, in my tent and I was still not warm in the slightest.

Time to get up and on the move. Generate some heat.

Had breakfast, had a couple more cups of coffee and then quickly packed up all my stuff. It was only about 8.30am but already there was a steady flow of cars arriving in the car park. People dressed for a day up the mountain snowboarding on all the fresh snow that had fallen.

Walked away from the ski centre, down to the A82 road, crossed it and headed down toward the Kingshouse Hotel. Few people milling around, went in to see if they served breakfast but couldn't seem to find anyone who worked there, which was odd. After walking up and down a few corridors and looking in different rooms I just left.

Outside was what I had been looking forward too. I had read that there was a herd of dear that hung about the hotel car park, as they got fed scraps from the hotel. Sure enough they were there. A coach load of tourist had just finished taking selfies with the dear and were returning to their bus as I arrived. Amazing how tame they'd become for being nervous animals. Got a couple of pictures and then left them to it.

Thankfully started to warm up a bit now. Walked on the path beside the road. Again lots of traffic noise. Got to the Devil's Staircase and as it was a Saturday, plenty of day walkers were out. They were annoyingly cheery. Half way up the Devil's Staircase, the rain came on. Waterproofs out again.

Too hot, unzip jacket, getting wet, zip up jacket, too hot, unzip jacket, too cold...... Will this uphill path ever end. Everyone is so happy. Irritatingly happy. Bet they slept in a nice warm comfy bed last night.

It was a painful descent on my feet and knees down into Kinlochleven, which just seemed to go on and on forever, as my pace was so slow.

The sound of motorbikes echoing around the mountains accompanied me down the hill. There was a big motorbike trials event on. A load of them came flying past me on a very steep gravel track. Only after they whizzed past, I had thought that I could have thumbed for a lift down into town!

Coming into the town the signage was a little confusing. Only because I had looked longingly for the past hour at the map on my phone at where I was finishing at, I knew the signs were pointing me in the wrong direction.

Blackwater Hostel was my stop for the night. Nice grassy area beside the river to pitch the tents. The town was heaving with bikers. Got my tent up, went for fish and chips for dinner and fell asleep to the sound of the river and the thought that tomorrow was my last day. Yey!

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Walking the West Highland Way - Day 5

Day 5

Friday 29th April 2016. I can't leave my warm little pod this morning. It was so cozy and with the heater on was the first warm nights sleep I've had since starting on Monday. I now have dry clothes again too.

I knew I needed to get going if I was going to get anywhere today. It was nearly 11am before I left Tyndrum. Already missed a good 3 hours of walking.

Although by now the sun had managed to melt a lot of the snow and slush on the ground. Following the train tracks, it was a bit of a climb up the valley out of Tyndrum. Then the path went up alongside the mountain. The scenery was great with some snow still lying higher up on the mountains. Just a pity about the traffic noise coming from the road that runs along the other side of the rail tracks.

Marched on as I was conscious of not having the time to waste today due to the late start. Got to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for lunch. It was nice to sit down inside, my feet still feel like they are on fire when I walk.

Forced myself out to continue on. I had got a little too comfortable in the pub. Outside a group of guys on mountain bikes had just pulled in for their lunch.

Crossed over the actual Bridge of Orchy and started the steady climb up over the hill. Cool views of the surrounding hills covered in snow from half way up. Just as I had reached the very top viewpoint, I could see the guys on bikes coming up the trail just behind me. A little jealous at how much faster they were going on their bikes, compared to my slow plodding.

Took a couple of group photos for them and chatted a bit before we all started off down the hill. Their whoops and yeehaas definitely made it sound like they were having 100% more fun going down the mountain than I was having.

Stopped again for a cuppa tea and slice of carrot cake at Inveroran Hotel. I didn't have the time really to stop again, but it was tough going today due to feet pain issues.

It was now late afternoon by this stage and I still had to cross Rannoch Moor. Chatted to an elderly couple who were staying in their camper van but out for a walk. Watched a heard of dear and the birds in the distance, while the man told me how the areas bird population had changed over the many years they had been coming to visit this same place.

Headed on and marched my way across the moor. I was the only person on the path. It was very desolate. Further on though it was beautiful looking around at the views. Every direction was the perfect photo opportunity.

Had to restrict myself from talking a million photos as the sun was now sinking lower in the sky and I wanted to make it round to Glencoe ski centre, where they had a small area to pitch tents beside the car park, before it got dark.

                                      

Met a couple of guys coming up from Glencoe just as I began to descend. They were running the WHW. Yes running. Nutters.

Just arrived and got the tent up in time to watch the sunset. Glad to be stopped. Ate my bag of expedition food for tea and put on a few extra layers, socks, hat and down jacket to go to bed in, preparing myself for another chilly night.

20 minutes later I got up again after already starting to feel the cold. I had had a great idea. I took the sealable foil bag my dinner was in (boiling water is added to the contents, the bag sealed and left for 10 minutes, before being rehydrated and ready to eat) washed it out in the sink of the toilets and filled it up from the hot water tap.

Got back into my tent with my hot water bottle and felt slightly more cozy now.

Genius.

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Walking the West Highland Way - Day 4

Day 4

Thursday 28th April 2016 Another horrid, cold night. Kept waking up and trying to curl up into a tiny ball to get warm. Getting out of the sleeping bag and then out of the tent required a good 30 minutes of preparation and psyching myself up for it. In the end, the need to pee won over the need to stay in a warm bed.

Oh. What. Freeeeeeezing. No more blue sky. Dark heavy black clouds and a biting Arctic wind. Yuck.

The pub was open for breakfast though. After a long hot breakfast. It was a quick take the tent down and pack up before getting too cold again.

Had everything packed up just as the first few flurries of snow starting falling. Sheltered in the campsite kitchen for a while, drinking tea and looking out the door. Very exciting, as I love snow, it's so pretty.

The snow was getting heavier.

What to do. German girl text her Scottish friend who was in the next town and said they had snow too, but were going to continue on. German girl didn't want to and decided to get a bus to meet her friend where she was going to finish at today.

I put more layers on and all my waterproofs, said my goodbyes and ventured out into the ever whitening landscape.

The whole of today was bleak.

It snowed ALL day. Blizzard like conditions up on the hills across to Inverardran. By this stage there was a good couple of inches lying on the ground and it was a guess where the path was in some places. Coming down to Tyndrum, the path crosses the road then river and then goes across a very exposed area of farmland. This was torture, as by now I had been walking in the snow for about 6 hours, soaked to the skin through my many layers and cold. So very cold in the howling wind and horizontal snow.

Trudge on and on. Stop at Strathfillan Wigwams farm shop for a cup of hot tea to warm myself up and try and get some feeling back in my hands. Would have been nice to be able to have stopped for the night here, but I wasn't for camping tonight and wanted to be nearer town to get some hot food for tea.

I endured the last few kms by imagining being warm and eating food! Stopped at Pine Trees Caravan Park, treated myself to a little camping pod. It had a heater and a kettle, ahhhhh.

Everything was soaking wet. Puddles formed from my dripping clothes and pack when I got inside. I had the internal shivvers. Made the mistake of sitting down on the stool in front of the heater, which was on at high.

Had to force myself out, to walk up the road to get food and stock up on supplies. The Green Welly Stop shop was still open, knew this would be the last shop until Kinlochleven, another 30 miles, so bought some chocolate and a dehydrated expedition meal. Then went next door and ordered a pizza to go.

Devoured the pizza in about 2 minutes when I got back into my pod. Yum. All my clothes were wet, apart from one T-shirt and a pair of cropped leggings. So put them on and in my flip flops, looking like a fool, carefully tip toed my way across the slushy snow path to the showers.

Luxury. So nice to have a hot shower after today. Although my feet didn't get much warmer for a good while after it. I also used the free hair dryer. Pure bliss.

Pranced back across the snow in my flip flops again and mopped up the floor of my pod, turned my wet clothes that were hanging up everywhere and called it a night. (Photo below taken the next day!)

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Walking the West Highland Way - Day 3

Day 3

Wednesday 27th April 2016 After kicking a few rocks yesterday, unintentionally of course and my shoes being on the slightly too small side, my feet were now a mess. Blisters on the bottom and a couple of nails starting to pop up from the base, I was nearly being sick looking at them. Slathered a load of Vaseline over them and quickly put my socks on. Out of sight, out of mind, bleurghh.

Another freezing night and the first thing I did was run inside for a hot shower to thaw out. Got breakfast and then the owner did several car runs back down to the WHW by the Loch. There were a lot of groans as we all contorted our aching bodies and piled into the people carrier.

Another nice bright day, but a noticeable chill in the air. The last bit of the Loch today, which was much like the last couple of days for a while. Passed Rob Roy's cave. Well I presume it was there, there was a sign post for it, but as I was in so much pain and it required so much effort to walk today, I didn't actually go looking for it!

Took a nice photo back down Loch Lomond once I reached the north end.

Walked across some rough pasture, met some hairy black goats and descended down through a open forest type area to reach the fields of Beinglas Farm Campsite.

They had a pretty posh toilet/shower block, a small store of sweets, canned food, dried pasta and various bits of camping equipment and most excitingly, a pub that also served food!! No camping cuisine this evening.

Paid the campsite fee and went and put the tent up. I had planned to walk a bit further today, but the slow injury induced progress and my burning feet meant I wouldn't have enough time to get to the next location, so I called it a day here.

The German girl arrived an hour or two after me. Her blisters were still really bad and her friend had left her to walk on with a couple of guys they had met, as German girl was being too slow. She was on the verge of quitting. Her tent was also broken. She also had forgotten to bring her bank card and only had about £20 to last her the rest of the week.

I shouted her some dinner and a pint and we stayed in the warm pub for as long as possible before having to face the cold sleeping bags. With the rumours of snow being forecast, a couple more layers were put on before going to bed tonight.

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Walking the West Highland Way - Day 2

Day 2

Tuesday 26th April 2016 It was very cold through the night, I kept waking up with the shivers and trying to get back to sleep. So when morning came round I felt I hadn't slept at all.

It was a slow start this morning due to being cold and stiff from yesterdays walking. When I unzipped the tent it was nice to see blue sky and sunshine and hear all the birdies tweeting. Had a feathered visitor when I was getting my breakfast brew on. I think it would've been in the tent beside me if I had let it!

Packed up and ready to go, I was the last of the campers to leave the site. The first few hundred metres where so painful on my feet after yesterday, but it was a lovely bright day and it was great to be on the path again continuing up the shore of Loch Lomond.

The day was mainly following the eastern shore of the Loch northward. It was a mix of quiet country road, forest paths, muddy rooty paths, gravel paths and beach. It mainly stayed right along the shore line. The views were amazing, occasional glimpses of mountains through the trees and you could see up and down the length of the Loch. The rain clouds could be seen approaching, so I knew when to get my jacket out. Thankfully there were only a couple of light showers before the sun made its appearance again. Perfect walking weather.

I made it to Rowardennan Hotel for lunch, just as the wind had started to really pick up, so it was nice to get inside for some heat from the log fire. I sat at a table by the window which had a fantastic view across the lawn and up to the top of the Loch. Nice to look at while munching my way through a big plate of nachos and a pizza. Yum.

Time was ticking on and I had to make a move, I had already stiffened up again from sitting so long. On the way out I chatted with a couple of groups of walkers all in getting their lunch too. It's good that there are plenty of people to chat to along the WHW, but not so many that you feel like you're on a group tour.

Back into the howling wind, along the road, through the carpark and onto a forest road. It then started to gradually climb upwards and this is where my problems started. I had pulled my groin after yesterdays steep staircase descent off Conic Hill. Now it was so painful and I could hardly lift my leg, swing it forward or put weight on it. The going was slow. I did however find the perfect sized stick lying right beside the path to use as a crutch. This helped a lot. Nature always provides.

Today was going to be a long, slow day. I passed two girls later on. One was German the other a Scot. The German girl was going even slower than me as she had blisters on both her heels. We commiserated with each other and I continued on when they sat down for a rest.

A lot of the path now was up and down a well worn muddy trail along the waters edge, stepping over rocks and roots. Sooo painful and I had to be inventive with how I could step over things while not being able to lift my left leg more than an inch off the ground.

A group I had chatted with at lunch caught me up. After checking if I was ok, one of the guys very kindly offered me his walking poles. I declined as it wouldn't be fair to him. He insisted and we agreed to him keeping one and me taking one. So I ended up with a stick and a shinny blue walking pole to stagger my way on for the rest of the day.

Slow going, I walked the last few kms with the German girl as her friend had gone on ahead. Eventually we made it to Inversnaid Hotel. Such a relief to sit down. German girls friend was already there and told us the guy from Inversnaid Bunkhouse was coming back to collect us and drive us up the road. Result.

Lovely place, I chose to camp again, but there were also dorms available and chalet houses. Got my tent up and went inside for a scrumptious dinner. The food was so good here. There were plenty of people staying, so it was good craic the rest of the evening with everyone.

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Walking the West Highland Way - Day 1

Time for another walk. Somewhere a bit closer to home and slightly shorter than the Camino across Spain this time.

The West Highland Way in Scotland is a long distance footpath, stretching for 155km (96miles) from Milngavie on the edge of Glasgow, to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis.

I decided to do this walk and camp each night along the way. So I packed up my tent, sleeping bag, stove and clothes into my tiny 35 litre rucksack. Tight squeeze and no luxuries included, but totally self sufficient for a week's hiking up Scotland.

Day 1

Monday 25th April 2016, I got a flight from Belfast to Glasgow, then a train to Milngavie where the WHW starts. Walking down the high street from the train station, a few drops of rain started to fall, an ominous sign? I got out my jacket then stopped at Subway for a bacon roll and Costa for a coffee, some pre walk nourishment. I also had to buy a gas canister for the camp stove, as they don't allow those on aeroplanes!

Rain shower over, quick photo at the start pillar and sign taken by a Spanish mother and daughter, who were also starting the walk. Several other people had begun their walk while I was getting food too, it's a very popular walking route, so plenty of company.

First part is a walk along a stream through parkland. Great to be back walking and starting another journey. The first short sharp hill and I realised how heavy my pack was, I could also feel the extra weight on my feet, the slightly too small shoes weren't helping. Ah well, too late to do anything about it now.

Nice bright day but very windy, walked and chatted with a few people throughout the day. Across country parks, forests, paths and country lanes. Came off the route and walked into the village of Drymen for some lunch and to stock up on some snacks.

Back on track and into the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park. Through forests and climbing up hill, to the first glimpse of Loch Lomond. The ranger drove past on one of the forest roads and stopped for a chat. What a great job that would be.

I had thought about trying to do the complete walk in 5 days, arriving in Fort William on Friday and then climbing Ben Nevis before coming home. That meant I'd have to do 20 miles a day.

Late afternoon now and I came to the junction where I could stick to the road down to the shore of Loch Lomond, or follow the path up and over Conic Hill. I couldn't see the hill, so thought it wouldn't be that bad a climb up it and the views would be great.

Well, after another couple of kms, the 'hill' came into view. The closer I got, I could see the path going straight up the side. Noooo. That couldn't be the path, it looked so steep.

At this stage, my pack felt twice the weight than it was at the start and my feet were burning. Needless to say it was a very, very slow accent, not helped by the big rock steps I had to keep stepping up with my short legs.

Eventually made it to the top though, kinda exhausted. Extremely windy, great view of the Loch. My phone battery died just as I went to take a photo, argghh. While being battered by the unrelenting wind, I unpacked my bag to get the battery pack to charge the phone, as I did not make all that effort and suffer the pain to get there and not have a photo from the top. Thankfully I was successful in taking a photo, not being blown off the mountain and not letting anything get airborne while unpacking my rucksack.

Coming down the other side was basically straight down on a rock staircase. This was very sore on the knees, while trying not to let gravity topple me down the hill using the weight of my bag.

Walking through Balmaha and the Oak Tree Inn looked very welcoming. Lots of people enjoy food and drink on the tables outside in the evening sun. I resisted. I knew if I stopped that would be it for the day, so kept tramping on.

The path now went along the shore of Loch Lomond. Up and down and round, it seemed to go on forever. The last 2 miles was quite painful. Made it to Milarrochy Bay Caravan and Campsite just as they had closed the office. Luckily they were still inside, handed over £5 and was shown where to pitch my tent. First thing, shoes off, flip flops on. Tent up, dinner on then straight into my sleeping bag. What a day. Shattered.

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