Cycling Down Through Hungary - Day 58

Sunday 26th October 2014 - Up early, misty cool morning. Reckon on leaving about 9.30am. Have shower, pack up and its 10.30am. Urgh, where does the time go in the morning.

Shoes and socks thoroughly dried out overnight, so feet not too cold this morning.

Back onto the road. Bit of sun trying to peek through. Mist all around in the distance.

Basically stayed on road 51 for most of the day, through Dunavecse, Solt, Kalocsa to Baja.

Need food. Only had a snickers and packet of chocolate biscuits for tea last night and a cereal bar this morning.

First town shops are all closed. Oh yeah, it's Sunday. Petrol stations are open, so buy a mars, bounty, kitkat, peanuts and a bag of fruit and nut mix.

Find the Eurovelo sign just beside the road after Solt and chance it. Nice smooth tarmac running parallel to the road. Great.

Through a couple of villages. Single storey houses along the roads, all with a yard or garden. Most with dogs in them. Shops all closed.

EV route then goes off back toward the river. I don't. Stay on road as it's straight and direct and I don't know what the EV route will be like. Don't want more gravel or massive detour.

Road is mainly flat and very long. Mostly pretty decent, but then there are sections that are really bumpy and full of holes. Concentration levels high to avoid the pot holes and the cars. Although, not sure if it is because it's a Sunday, but traffic isn't actually too busy. Most people give me plenty of room when passing too.

The speed the cars go on the badly surfaced parts of road, I think being a car mechanic in Hungary would be a good job to do, I'm sure they have plenty of work fixing suspension.

Also there are loads of Suzuki Swift cars here, I think they're built in Hungary. It was the first car I bought, with my student loan whilst at uni, so it's funny to see so many of them here.

There are also a lot of signs for deer every km or so. For miles and miles. Have no eye deer where they'd be living though, as it's all open flat farmland. Saw a fox run across the field beside me at one stage. It was doing about 25kmph. Not much other wildlife about.

100km of straight flat road, with only the odd town or bend. Black clouds following me, but it stays dry. Long day.

See some paprika factories and lots of it hanging up drying around houses. They like their paprika here.

Into Baja. Some great looking buildings. As I had stopped, taking photos and looking at map, a girl with a baby on her back approached me.

She asked if she could help. I said I was either going to the hotel or the camping. She said the camping was open. Decision made. Chatted with her, really nice girl with brilliant English. Said she has a few friends in Istanbul as well she could put me in contact with if I needed. She also offered to show me where the campsite was and if I was staying to meet for lunch tomorrow. I declined, as didn't want to put her out of her way tonight and I need an early start tomorrow, but it was nice of her.

Got her email address, but since I've been blocked out of my emails, for logging in from so many different countries, I'm not sure I'll be able to contact her before (if) I get there.

Camping was 1800HUF, a room was 3300HUF. Worked out about £8 for sleeping indoors, in the warm.

Worryingly there is only one clean sheet for the bed. The pillow case and duvet cover are already on them. I wonder how long they've been on for? Think I'll use a sheet from the other beds to protect me from the duvet and one to go over the pillow!

Went out to the restaurant next door. Had a slap up meal of duck, cabbage, potatoes, salad, beer and coffee for a tenner. Fab!!

I also realised, two days later, that the clocks went back. Coming out of Budapest I saw a clock on the street and it was a hour behind. Just thought it was an old clock. Then this morning, I couldn't believe it took me over an hour to get ready. Plus I thought it was bright really early this morning as well.

My watch was still on old time, but my phone had changed by itself when on WiFi in Budapest. Haha, took a while, but I figured it out!

The only important times of each day for me though are sunrise and sunset - time to go and time to stop.

Day 58 - 26.10.14
Szalkszentmárton to Baja, Hungary
9.30am to 4.30pm
4h 51min cycling
102.2km
2749 calories
376 metres asc

Hungry In Hungary - Day 57

Saturday 25th October 2014 - Bed about 1.30am, wake at 5.30am, up at 7am, away at 11am.

From here on now is like cycling into the unknown. Not sure of route, signs seem to be sparse, conditions of path varies and my maps I've downloaded don't really have much information on them (shops, hostels, hotels, bakeries, landmarks etc) like in the previous countries.

Plus, I've been to most countries or cities I've passed through, the next few I haven't and I have no knowledge of the language either. Different money too, proper border crossings and need a visa for Turkey.

Fun times ahead.

Not too bad cycling out of the city. Along the waterfront to the end of the cycle path, then along beside a road on a well marked cycle lane.

It sometimes then ends, cycle on the road, then it begins again.

McDonalds stop in town of highrise tower blocks. I'm now on the large island in the middle of the Danube. Banked up sides enclosing a vast area of flat farmland.

No signs, so just stayed on roads. Really straight roads.

Crossed the bridge in a nice town called Ráckeve.

Then down along bank of the river for a while, on a horrendous bumpy pot holed road. The whole way along this there are lots and lots of fishing platforms on the edge.

The horrendous road then turns into a muddy dirt track. I am now being held up by a car tentatively making its way down it.

Pass a house with 3 Labrador dogs pulling the feathers out of a freshly caught hen. When I stop to look, the dogs look up at me, the hen makes a run for it (I thought it was already dead), then the dogs chase after it, resulting in mad squawking from the bushes. Poor hen.

Saw a Eurovelo sign on a bank....with a gravel path. N. O.

Went on the road. Just kept turning the pedals round and round and round.

5.30pm, sun setting. Looking at map and I happened to be stopped beside a motel on the opposite side of road.

Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, so to speak, I went over to it.

Walked in and there's a big family dinner party going on. No one else in the restaurant.

5500 HUF, about £14, for a room in  Szalki Fogadó Motel, just outside Szalkszentmárton. Basic, but warm with hot water and a very comfy bed.

Snickers and some mini chocolate biscuits for tea.

Day 57 - 25.10.14
Budapest to Szalkszentmárton, Hungary
11am to 5.30pm
4h 12min cycling
76.8km
1935 calories
490 metres asc

Into Budapest - Day 56

Friday 24th October 2014 - Great buffet breakfast. Even had crispy proper bacon. First bacon butty since leaving, yum. All that was missing was a proper big mug of tea.

Packing up and the hotel man that unlocked the garage, so I could get my bike out, was laughing at me when he asked where I had cycled from and where I was going. He also told me to put a coat on, as it was too cold to cycle without one.

Quick stop at the Tourist Info centre, checked if it was all on road to Budapest. Girl gave me detailed information of where the road bits were and were the cycle paths started and ended. Walked out and promptly forget it all.

Anyway, first bit was back onto the road from last night. 8km in and the rain started. Just put on rain jacket, didn't bother with trousers.

Found cycle path, bumpy with broken tarmac and the trees roots. Covered in leaves and mud too. Nothing is going to be clean after today again.

Had to stop a few times to remove twigs and leaves caught up in the gears.

Wet, cold feet, rain pouring off helmet. Hard to look at map on phone in the rain too, as the touchscreen goes a wee bit mad with the raindrops hitting it.

EV6 signage very bad. Some really dodgy paths into Budapest as well. Pot holes, broken tarmac and a muddy forest section kept things interesting.

Into the city and the paths start to get better. Still had to do a bit of guess work though, as it wound its way through the streets. Not really much fun in the rain. Starting to get really cold now too.

Pass a sculpture of several people holding umbrellas, very fitting for today!

Through a tram stop, guards stopped me and told me to get off and walk the bike through. Feet too cold, can't walk right, kind of like after when you've had pins and needles in your feet, when the feeling is coming back to them. Must've looked like a weirdo, didn't care though, just kept thinking of getting to a warm hostel.

Round a corner and see the city in the distance.

Down to opposite the parliament building, Hungarys largest building, built in a neogothic style. Cycle diversion. Arrgggghhhh.......too cold for this.

Up to the Chain bridge, few quick snaps and across it. First permanent bridge in Budapest, built in 1849. Stayed on a main road for a bit. Roads through Budapest are mental. 4 lanes of traffic and tram line in the middle. Pot holes and puddles. Fast cars. People. Traffic lights. Big city. Don't know where I am, or going. Cold.

Find the hostel, check in, wheel the bike through inside, to the back garage.

Soaked through. Enjoy a really hot shower.

Meet up with my friend Alex, who I met snowboarding in Bulgaria earlier this year, for dinner and drinks. First person I know that I've seen in 55 days. Enjoyed a big plate of beef stew and dumplings and a couple of drinks at a quirky bar called Szimpla Kert, a ruin bar. Good nights craic.

Cold night out though.

Day 56 - 24.10.14
Visegrad to Budapest, Hungary
11am to 4.30pm
3h 02min cycling
48.5km
1190 calories
487 metres asc

Eurovelo 6 Komarno to Visegrad, Hungary - Day 55

Thursday 23rd October 2014 - Survived a windy cold wet night, just! Still cold. Up about 8.30am, pack everything up, too cold to hang about.

Out of campsite and round to the hotel to hand in the keys. Come out to cycle off and realise I don't have my Garmin cycle computer. Hmmm

Last I saw it was in my tent last night. End up unpacking my tent at the hotel entrance, to see if its in the inner section. No it's not.

Look in my bags again, then have to go in to ask for the keys, to go back and look in the campsite. This took ages as the lady didn't understand and phoned someone who spoke English to come to the reception.

Good bye nice early start.

Back in to where I had tent up, looked around, looked in toilet block. Nothing to be found. The man that came with me looked really upset too lol.

Anyway, I knew if it wasn't left there it'd be hiding in my stuff somewhere. Just annoyed I wouldn't be able to records the days cycle.

10.30am finally go.

100 metres down the road stop again. Unpack my sleeping bag on the pavement, clunck, out it drops. Yey!!!!

Celebrate by getting a hot slice of pizza thing from Lidl on way out of town. I also made the fizzy water mistake again, sigh.

Hands and feet still cold.

Round the town, nice old buildings and across the bridge.

Nice smooth new tarmac for a few kms. Also new shelters and bike racks and seating too. The plastic was even still on one of the benches. They are definitely upgrading the tracks.

Didn't last though. Back to the gravel marble track again. Gravel gravel gravel. I really can't believe someone would think and decide it is a great idea to put gravel on a cycle path. Why would you do it?!

No signs again.

Cold. Think feet are still on the end of my legs, haven't been able to feel them since I left.

Rain.

Get to a km or two from Sturovo on the gravel path and it is blocked. No entry sign beside a factory. Went up the field beside it, no paths. Argghhh back 3 or 4km to a path up through the previous village.

Strange place, dance music is being played out of speakers throughout the place. Every 100 metres there's a speaker on a pole, odd. No one around either, just one old lady pushing a cart of flowers up the street.

Takes absolutely forever to reach Sturovo. Was beginning to think that it was just a fictional place.

Eventually off the gravel onto road and cross a bridge over the Danube into Hungary. 10th country I have now cycled in.

Bridge brought me into Esztergom. Lovely town, amazing buildings and big castle up on the hill.

Need to change money, but the banks were closed. Credit card at ATM instead. Have no idea how much the HUF exchange rate is and the ATM didn't tell me either, so took out 50000huf, hoping it wasn't going to be hundreds of pounds!

Decided to just stay on the road after a bit of cycle path out of Esztergom. Starting to get dark, lights on. Really dodgy road. Pot holes and cracks and bumps and a drop off the edge of tarmac. Momentary blindness each time a car passes. Pedalling fast to get as far as possible. It was a bit risky to say the least, not big or smart, but managed another 20km down the road.

Tried a campsite at Domos, but it's only open until September. End up in Visegrad. Today is also a national holiday, so after trying all the accommodation places in the town, to no avail, its a room in Visegrad Hotel for €60.

It's warm. Takes a while to thaw out. Really comfy bed too. Breakfast and use of the swimming pool and spa facilities included. Out on the balcony I can see the castle up on the hill all lit up too.

I do avail of the mini bar in my room.

Day 55 - 23.10.14
Komárno, Slovakia to Visegrad, Hungary
10.30am to 8.30pm
5h 13min cycling
91.9km
2368 calories
604 metres asc

Leaving Bratislava on Eurovelo 6 - Day 54

Wednesday 22nd October 2014 - Back on the road today. Looked at forecast and there was a weather warning about Gonzalo. It was really windy through the night too. Woke up to windows banging.

Cold, windy and raining this morning. Packed up bags. My bike was outside in the terrace, not under cover, so had to scoop out the water that had collected inside of them overnight, before packing.

Back into hostel for breakfast. Bread dipped in egg and fried, with cheese on top and pancakes with cream, chocolate and jam. Hopefully keep the legs turning for a good bit this morning.

Man in the bar with his dog. It came over to me while I was waiting on my food coming. It was really soft and fluffy. It then lay down and feel asleep over my feet.

Brought bike through, down steps, through bar, up steps. Quite a task. Outside and it is sooo cold. Wind is really chilly.

Stopped for more cash on way out of town, then back over the UFO bridge.

Minor detour just after as they look like they were re-building one of the bridges across the river.

Bit of a cycle path, then onto the road for ages. Quiet road though, only me and the rain on it. The Danube was canalised during the Stalin years, so the road was along the dam edge. Flat and slightly sheltered from the wind, I managed 50km in under 2 hours, including coming out of the city. Pretty good, it also kept me warm.

Cold wet feet though.

Crossed the dam onto an island part and there is an outdoor sculpture art museum. Looked good, took few photos, but no time to go in.

Also they use the dammed water for a whitewater kayak course. Looked great, also explains why Slovakia is good during the Olympics etc, the force of the water down the course looked really strong.

On along the edge of the dam. Seagulls and ducks flying away when they eventually realise I'm approaching them.

Stop just before I cross to the other side. Really really windy here and cold. Lots of waves and spray coming off the water too.

Down the other side and along the bank. The smooth tarmac then turned into gravel paths. These were so slow and seemed to suck the wheels in like quicksand. Really monotonous. Nothing to look at either, for miles. The path was on top of a bank, trees on one side, flat farmland on the other. For ages.

Was also keeping an eye on the massive black clouds that seemed to be following me, hoping they wouldn't burst. Kept me motivated to pedal on through the slushy gravel.

This scene repeated over and over for the next couple of hours. Really slow, annoying and boring. Kept switching sides of the track to see if one was better than the other. Neither were.

Every so often there is also a metal barrier across the track. They have a dip in the middle for cyclist to go over. Some have a ramp over the round barrier, some don't. Some also swing when you roll your front wheel over them. Never know which type you'll find at each one, it also means stop starting in the gravel, arrrgghhh.

Slooooooooow. Especially after my really fast morning section.

First person I also pass is a man and his dog out running at 98km.

Also, there are hardly any signs. The ones that are there also seem to be broken, sprayed over, or on the ground, which is a pity. It could have been someone that was tipped over the edge of sanity by the gravel paths, taking their frustration out perhaps?

Into the town of Komarno in the dark. Looked like nice buildings. Still can't feel my feet, or hands now. Really cold.

Found the campsite which is owned by the adjacent hotel. Panorama Hotel, just near the centre. €6.80 for the night.

Round into the site. Windy, cold, rainy, cold, damp, cold, hands don't work. Makes putting the tent up a bit of a challenge.

No food left, only one corny cereal bar (love these) and some peanuts. Not going back into town either.

Hot water in a water bottle and zipped up into tent to try and warm up and sleep.

Brrrr

Day 54 - 22.10.14
Bratislava to Komárno, Slovakia
11.30am to 6.30pm
4h 53min cycling
107.4km
3200 calories
380 metres asc

Rest Day Bratislava - Day 53

Tuesday 21st October 2014
Slept.
All clothes washed and dried.
Wandered round town.
Couldn't find any camping gas.
Love this city - would be lovely in the snow.
McDonald's for lunch.
Bryndzové halušky for dinner.
Sunny, 23 degrees.
Downloaded film on phone to watch.
Jazz band playing in bar in evening.
Raining.
Ready for the road again

          

Beautiful Bratislava - Day 52

Monday 20th October 2014 - Slept well wrapped up like a sausage roll in the silk covered duvet. It was cold last night again, had to have a hot shower before bed to warm up. I've been cold for past couple of days now.

Down for breakfast and away at 10.30am. Liked this place, nice indoor bit with loads of plants. More of those massive trumpet flowers, these ones were white and smelled like jasmine.

Stopped to get cash and restock of cereal bars and some water.

Back out of town to the cycle path. Stopped to check signs and heard a hiss. Nooooo. Looked closer trying to locate its origin, thinking it would be the first puncture of the trip. Realised it was coming from my water bottle.

That bottle of water I bought definitely said 'still' water. Opened the spout, took a sip, sparkling. Really, what is the point in fizzy water, tastes like plastic, but suppose it's a change for a day.

Back to cycling along on a straight bank. Grass each side with trees. Nothing really to see for 20km. Every so often I'd cycle through a warm pocket of air though, which was weird.

Stopped to empty the gravel out of my shoes just before going onto the road. Noticed the last couple of weeks I'm having to pull the velcro tabs of my shoes more and more. Surely my feet can't be shrinking and if so, does that mean I had fat feet before??! Surely not!

Over a big long bridge and round under it to Hainburg an der Donau. Old town with castle and walls, with another big castle up on the hill behind it. Wee ladybird landed on my knee whilst cycling through. I carried her about 5km before she flew off. Doing my bit to help the biodiversity of the banks of the Danube.

The path led up to the train tracks. As I was coming up to the tracks a train was coming. No barriers on the crossing, train driver kept honking his horn. Yes, I can see and hear your big metal tube and I'm miles away and not even going to cross the tracks, as the path turned to go alongside the railway line.

Could see Bratislava way off in the distance, with the distinct shape of Bratislava castle up on the hill. Quite exciting.

Up to the border, no stopping now Slovakia is in the EU. The old border area slowly being taking over by vegetation.

I'm now into eastern Europe, can't read any of the signs. Also each new country has different cycle signage, so have to recognise what your looking for quickly, or you're away in the wrong direction.

Past a bunker museum, didn't look like there was much there, so just cycled on.

Back to the river and coming up to the city, the castle appeared again, as did the UFO bridge (Most SNP bridge). It is a one cable-stayed bridge with only one pylon, on top of which is a flying saucer shaped structure, known as the UFO Outlook Tower. This part is also a restaurant and an observation deck. Looks really fab.

Actually crossed this bridge, the cycle and pedestrian crossing is under the road on it.

Straight into the old town. Really like the feel of eastern European cities. Not sure what it is. Up through the pedestrianised old town streets with all the lovely buildings, street cafes and restaurants, people coming and going.

Out at the top under Michaels Gate, built in the 13th century and one of Bratislavas oldest buildings. Then up to the Presidential Palace.

Just as I had got there, police were stopping traffic and a calvacade of police motorbikes and cars lead out a black car with a flag on it. I presume it must've been the president going for a pint of milk and loaf of bread.

Hostel was just down the street beside the palace. I stopped to admire a nice building, looked at the map and that building was the hostel.

Two nights for €29. Free washing machine and €1 for powder. 8 bed dorm to myself. Bike out in the back terrace.

Had a big feed of chicken pasta, salad, beer and a coffee for €11 in the restaurant/bar downstairs of the hostel. Cool inside. Typical building, big shallow staircase with really high ceilings, wooden floors, double windows. Nicely decorated, really homely feel to it. Kitchen and living room with a piano too.

Think I might do the touristy stuff tomorrow, if the rain stops that is!

Day 52 - 20.10.14
Orth an der Donau, Austria to Bratislava, Slovakia
10.30am to 3.30pm (I think)
2hr 27min cycling
40.2km
1022 calories
306 metres asc

Sunday Stollers in Vienna - Day 51

Sunday 19th October 2014 - Really cold, not as cold as Wiltz, but still foundering last night.

Gas ran out this morning as well, about 45 seconds after lighting it. So got up and luckily there was a stocked kitchen, no kettle, but pans and a cooker...ahhh heat.

One of the cats came in while I was waiting on the water boiling. I scooped it up and cuddled it to try and extract some of its furry warmth. It actually feel asleep in my arms.

Yes, I hadn't turned the cooker up to full heat, after wondering why it was taking so long to boil. Brain obviously froze overnight too.

After planning to leave early, I left at 12pm, argh. It's going to be a big day too. Hoping to make Bratislava, about 120km from here, Traismauer.

Blasted to McDonald's 30km away in Tulln, with the help of Pure Heroine (Lorde album), for food. Sundays the shops are closed.

On my way I saw a group of cyclists with panniers in the distance. Got closer and saw it was the New Zealand family from the Grein campsite, on the rainy day.

Caught up to them and pedalled a bit with them chatting. They are doing eight months world tour and have cycled through Italy, Switzerland and Austria. The girls, I think about 8 and 12 years old, both had their own bags on their bikes. They are finishing in Vienna today and then going to Budapest to sightsee, before flying to Asia to tour around for another couple of months, not on bikes though. Really nice family.

Headed on to McDonalds. Just as I was finishing up, they arrived in.

Today has also been really cold. The misty river fog hadn't lifted and the air was quite cold when cycling along. Still just wearing three quarter length Endura baggies though. Toes frozen for most of day, as socks and shoes still damp.

Finally the sun did manage to put in an appearance about 2pm. So did all the Sunday day out people.

Into Vienna along the river. Have been in the city before, so just followed the signs on past. It went through various roads and paths and was like a race track. Road bikers in full Lycra dodging in and out and round all the other cyclists and walkers at speed, had to really keep an eye out.

Route took me over to the other side of Danube. I didn't want to be on that side, as Bratislava is reached by the right bank, but looking at map couldn't see an easy way without going into the city, so just followed the signs.

The path went on for ages. It was along the grassy banks and lots of people out walking, roller blading, skate boarding, cycling, bbqing, playing football, wrestling.....

On and on and on. Every so often when passing a drain getting a vomit inducing whiff of the stench coming up from them too.

5.30pm and it was about 20km to Orth an der Donau. Knew I wouldn't make Bratislava in daylight, so just decided I'd stay there and go to Slovakia in the morning, as I really want to see the UFO bridge and the castle on the hill on the way in.

So, finally pulled off the grass bank and went through a stunningly beautiful Shell oil refinery (I think that's what it was), for a good bit.

Then it turned into a nature reserve. Sun now setting and there was a lovely red sky (didn't come out too well in photos though).

Stopping for photos was a nightmare, as a plague of hungry mossies decended to eat me each time.

Into Orth in the dark. Saw a few signs coming off the cycle route, before the town, for various types of accommodations.

Into town, cycled round. One of the pensions (like a b&b) was being rebuilt, one was in darkness and there was a nice looking hotel. Really fancied it, but only €39 in my pocket.

Last pension at top of town, so decided I'd go and look at it and then have the hotel as a last resort option.

Pension Sabine, €35 for bed and buffet breakfast. Nice courtyard with big pond. Lady said you can swim in it, I said maybe not tonight thanks. Bike parked in a secure garage.

Only about 20-30km from Bratislava, so will get up have breakfast and a short day tomorrow (hopefully).

Still cold.

Day 51 - 19.10.14
Traismauer to Orth an der Donau, Austria
12pm to 6.30pm
4hr 45min cycling
97.9km
2699 calories
577 metres asc

The Danube Wine Cycle Route - Day 50

Saturday 18th October 2014 - Paid at 8am when the man turned up, €6.20.

Putting on wet socks and shoes, yuk!

Vislof had made me breakfast again. Choice of coffee or tea, cheese sandwich and chocolate bars. After finishing it, I said good bye, all my stuff was already packed up and headed off.

11am and back up and over the bridge to the right side of the river. It was a very misty morning.

4km on and I'd just stopped to take a photo when a guy on a bike stopped to talk to me. Asked where I was going to, coming from blah blah. He was on a road bike with only one small saddled bag. Travelling from Munich to Vienna. I commented he didn't have much stuff, he said he was staying in hotels. Well for some! I said I'd be too slow, suggestively telling him to go on, as I didn't want to cycle with anyone today!

Bit of a climb, round a corner to SUNSHINE!!!! Woohoo!!!

Great feeling the warmth and actually seeing what the view was like. Lovely cycle along the river in the sun with no cars or rain.

On through a few villages. The steep banks of the river now become covered with vines not trees.

Stopped at a Billa for some food. Then when I got back onto the road, someone had clearly stolen all the signs I was following.

The road went up, up and up. Not a cycle sign to be seen. Had seen a great big monestry or castle high on a hill in the distance. Now I was coming up to its height by road. Do the legs good to remind them how to climb after a few days of flat river cycling.

The view from the top was amazing. Looking down on the Danube from a height gave it a completely different look. Great to see it from above as well.

Managed then to somehow find myself on the wine cycle route. That would be a good summer one, cycle from wine house to wine house, sampling the goods!!

Dropped back down to Traismauer and located a campsite. Another short day, but wanted to get all my damp gear from yesterday thoroughly dried out in the sun, before it disappeared at about 6pm.

My sleeping bag is absolutely stinking, as I think it's got packed away too many mornings when the cold damp air had still been on it.

Debating whether to wash it or not. It says hand wash, no tumble dry. Obviously I'd need to machine wash and tumble dry it, but it might end up in a less than fluffy state. Hmmm.

Campsite is in the back garden of a family's house, which is kinda weird but kinda homely too. Only person here.

Day 50 - 18.10.14
Melk to Traismauer, Austria
11am to 4.30pm
3hr 07min cycling
53.2km
1495 calories

560 metres asc

Drenched - Day 49

Friday 17th October 2014 - Rained all night. Up to have a look out in daylight. Coming in and putting up tent in the dark and rain, not sure what the surroundings are like. It's like a surprise for the morning.

Camped under the castle of Grein.

Rain rain rain.

Showered.

Still raining heavily. Puddles everywhere. Tent nearly floating. Ducks now wandering around the campingplatz.

Vislof suggested going to tour the castle, as he didn't want to ride in rain and it was something to do rather than sit in a restaurant. I said I was going to pack up and head on. Only water after all. Everything was soaked anyway and no point wasting a day sitting looking at the rain.

He decided he was coming then too. He said he was going to remember this day for the next 20 years!!

Lots of layers and the waterproofs on and off we went. Waved at the family as we left Grein, they were staying put for the day.

It continued to pour down. The cycle path was beside the road so we were getting the spray from the passing cars and lorries as well.

Foamy knees on my waterproof trousers from spilled washing liquid a couple of weeks ago and the repetitive turning of the pedals made me chuckle.

Vislof was in front and I couldn't stop laughing at how ridiculous we must've looked and how much he probably wished he hadn't have come. We swaped at 10km.

Coming through Weins 15km later I lost him. Waited. 10 minutes past, so I turned back and found him in a bus shelter. Needed a rest, high blood pressure at 270 two years ago, so he needs to take things easy. We chatted for about half an hour. So funny because he sometimes gives completely random answers to some questions I ask him, as he doesn't understand me. So I've simplified my speaking to sentences of only a few keys words!

He rides a 20 year old bike, nothing fancy, with a bit of blue plastic covering his computer and his water bottle is an empty bottle of shop bought water filled with tea, coffee and sugar!

2km later I had passed the 3000km mark, yeow!!

Another stop at a shop in the next town. Sheltered in trolley bay. He spoke German so was able to have the banter with everyone coming to do their shopping. They all said tomorrow will be sunny!

On we went. Crossed the Danube and saw the massive impressive monestry at Melk. A lot of tour boats also docked here.

No camping. So crossed the bridge and found a camp ground in Emmersdorf, on the other side.

5.30pm. Reception was meant to be open from 7-8pm. Vislof went to see prices for rooms at hotel beside campsite. €66 cheapest. Not a chance. Pitched tents then went into the town to the local gasthof for dinner. Beef, gravy and potatoes mmmm. I love these gasthofs. The reception person never turned up.

Mentioned I'd push on tomorrow, as we only did less than 50km today and I need to do more than that each day.

Will see where I get to tomorrow, hopefully to a campsite just before Vienna.

Day 49 - 17.10.14
Grein to Melk, Austria
12.30pm to 5.30pm
2hr 47min cycling
48.7km
1202 calories
293 metres asc

Sun and Rain, Lots of Rain - Day 48

Thursday 16th October 2014 - Rain in the morning. Packed up wet tent, away 11.30am. Stopped at Spar, swirly baps, cheese and salami.

Cycled on past Linz. Stopped in a park and had lunch, also got on Linz WiFi. Sun out, sat for ages. Dogs came over looking share of my food. Their owners shouting at them. I didn't give them any.

Went on. Saw two swans sleeping with their heads on their backs and their noses under their wings, they'll have a crick in their necks when they wake up. Also saw a 1km conveyer belt of stones and a funny coloured duck, red and orange, lurking in the bushes at the side of the river.

Crossed power station bridge. Wasn't sure if I was allowed, as metal automatic security gates, CCTV, big signs. Another cyclist came past and went on through, as they opened automatically, so I just followed him.

Thought I'd go in to Enns, see the oldest town in Austria.

Through industrial areas, past railway lines and factories. No signs to the centre. Round town, then found way into the centre, up a hill. One old tower, that was it. Expected old buildings etc. Totally not worth the effort.

Route out of town was another road closed, due to being dug up. Went the other way to get the ferry over the river, but it had stopped on the 1st October, as I was kindly informed by a passing jogger, just as I read the sign saying the same thing.

Back into town, 4pm. Bakery stop, pretzel wasn't nice either. Wasted so much time in this (bleeping) town. Found road out and over the bridge, then the rain came on. Another trip down metal stairs off the bridge, in the wet, with a steep bike gutter, arrgghhh.

Campsite only 5km in Au an der Donau. Get there. It's actually shut until 2015 now. Looked at signs for hotels. What to do. Next campsite in Grein 30km away, it was now 6pm. Still raining.

Just decided to do it. Back cycling along river. 10km in, starting to get dark and see a guy on a bike on the grass. He came over to the path as I was coming by. Asked where the next camping was.

Vislof (actually spelt Wieslaw) from Poland. Works for a tool company and he designs the machines that make fizzy drink cans. Son lives in Scotland working for BP and is getting married next year. He drove to Passau and parked, is cycling to Vienna and then getting a special bike train back to Passau for only €25. Turns out he was at the campsite I stayed at last night too.

Dark now. He cycled with me. Lights on for a bit of road, then country roads back to riverside. He said I was very strong after the road section, lol, I just wanted off it.

Hard to see the edge of path, hoping I wouldn't miss a corner and take a swim. Very dark, lights from the waterways were bright green and red, very bright, hard to focus on the upcoming ground. Under a bridge and round a corner and eventually see lights of the town Grein in the distance. Still raining. Made it to campsite 8.30pm.

Pitched tents in the pouring rain. There was also a family of cyclists there too. Mum, dad and two girls of about 8 and 12. They are cycling round Europe. The kids were loving it.

Into sleeping bag to listen to the rain and wind all night.

Day 48 - 16.10.14
Ottensheim to Grein, Austria
11.30am to 8.30pm
5hr 03min cycling
89.1km
2344 calories
680 metres asc

Ahhhh Austria - Day 47

Wednesday 15th October 2014 - Up and went for breakfast, which was in a different part of the castle, so had to go outside. It was raining.

Checkout 9.30am, haha!! So hung around a while, waiting for rain to stop and to download an Austria map, which took forever.

Away about 11.30am. Pretzel stop 2km later.

Out along the left bank of the Danube, toward Linz in Austria. Nice wide smooth tarmac path separated from the road.

Rain had stopped and the whisps of clouds were slowly lifting from the trees on either side of the river.

About 20km on, the path went down beside the river away from the road. It was lovely and there wasn't really anyone around. It was my own private Danube highway!

Crossed the border into Austria, woohoo!! But no sign, boooo!!

Nice steady pedal to 40km where the road stopped at Au. Here you got a wee wooden boat across to Schlogen on the opposite side to continue on the route. This is where the Danube does 180 degrees turn, as its path is blocked by a mass of granite.

Wee munchy break after getting off the boat, then another 20km beside the river. Both sides were really steep and covered in trees, all shades of colours. No cars or houses, was very nice. Sun out now and blue sky.

There were a couple of boats coming up the river behind me, so used them as a pacer and kept in front of them the whole way to the road.

Stopped at Aschach an der Donau for a bite to eat and get some money out. Some weird sandwich from the Spar, think it had egg, ham, green stuff, salami and cream cheese with green bits. Filled a hole though.

Also had to buy a new bar of soap and bottle of shampoo. 46 days out of the last ones, not too bad.... clearly they weren't used every day!! I'm on my third bottle of deodorant though.

Some of the bike racks at shops don't work with suspension forks or disc brakes. The one at this Spar was one of them. I just wheeled it round the side and propped it up against the wall. Started a trend, as 5 minutes later there were five other bikes with mine.

Getting cold as had stopped, so got on the move again. Linz about 25km I think from here.

Didn't really fancy having to go into a city again, so spied a campsite in the town before Linz. To get to it involved another boat trip across the Danube, €2.80.

While I was waiting for the boat to come across, I was looking on the tourist info map. There was another campsite marked about 2km away from the map I use. Hmmm.

So across the Danube, sun setting behind the castle of Ottensheim. My map campsite was closed. Man walking his dog said the other one is open.

Up the road, found the campsite and went to pay at the pub on the other side of road. €5, bargain, beside a corn field with a little babbling stream beside me, better than €30 for a hostel any day. Cold though, think the layers will have to be put on before getting in the sleeping bag tonight.

Day 47 - 15.10.14
Passau, Germany to Ottensheim, Austria
11.30am to 6pm
3hr 59min cycling
85.7km
2411 calories
685 metres asc

Passau, At Last! - Day 46

Tuesday 14th October 2014 - Pelted down with rain all night and was really really windy. Just keep thinking, please do it all now and not during the daytime too!

Packed up and away at 10.30am. Really dark and cloudy still, everything soaked.

Stopped at lidl for breakfast and as I was getting ready to cycle off the blue sky appeared with the sun. Happy.

Today was a day of roadwork diversions. About 4 of them. Digging up the paths, resurfacing the paths, or completely building a new road. Squeezed one of them by riding along ontop of a grassy bank and then down onto the path they had finished.

Couple other ones I had to go back and find alternative route.

I just want to get to Passau, pleeeease!!!

One of the roadworks, I asked a couple of passing cyclists if the cycle path was still open on up. They said yes and on I went.

Coming into Vilshofen an der Donau about 20km later I bumped into them again, so we chatted for a while. As much as you can when their English is rusty and my German is nonexistent.

Along the cycle path into Vilshofen were rocks with silver models of the planets and an info board. Then at the start of the path was a big giant sun. Think it was all done to scale, both planet sizes and distance from each other/the sun. Was pretty cool.

Also all the way along the river were lots of mini spaceships. Took a pic. Think its maybe lights for shipping in the river perhaps.

Into Passau. Crossed the Danube at another giant power station or lock thing. Then round the town, back across the river, to climb climb climb to the hostel, which is in the old castle at the top. Pretty amazing views too.

Met a Swiss guy, travelling by bike too. He is on his way home after 5 months doing a loop up through and around Scandinavia and Germany.

Check out is at 9.30am!!! Seriously, these hostel times are getting earlier and earlier! Breakfast from 7.30am.

Hopefully, maybe, perhaps, I might actually make it to Austria tomorrow :-)

Day 46 - 14.10.14
Deggendorf to Passau, Germany
10.30am to 6.30pm
4hr 14min cycling
66.5km
1744 calories
731 metres asc

Just Still Cycling Along in Germany - Day 45

Monday 13th October 2014 - Away at 11am.

No one on paths now being a Monday morning!

Regensburg is the most northern point of the Danube. It also has the oldest stone bridge across the Danube. Looking forward to seeing it, but the route didn't take me there. The GPS also takes about 10-20km in the morning to waken up and catch up.

Bakery stop. Pretzel, croissant and a  sweet nutty pastry thing.

Out of town along river.

Stopped at Worth an der Donau. Nice place. Gasthof Butz for lunch. What a feed. Mega chicken salad for €5 odd, it was beautiful!

Cycled on.

Campsite in Straubing closed.

Lidl for munchies stock up. Someones dog was waiting for them outside. It was lying down in roadway, cars a people had to go round it. Watched it as I scoffed some food and it never moved a muscle.

On to Deggendorf.

Good flat tarmaced cycle road for most of way. Could see the outline of mountains in distance.

Saw lots of geese I think up in the air. Flying away maybe? Wintertime is here then if they are!!

6.30pm, campsite beside the railway bridge, by river.

No one answered buzzer. Young lad said to just put tent up and owner would be back later.

Paid €8, when I went an hour or so later to see if he was back. Lucky he said it was okay, as tent and all was up and it was dark!

Rain just coming on. Trains rattling and thundering past.

Day 45 - 13.10.14
Regensburg to Deggendorf, Germany
11am to 6.30pm
4hr 44min cycling
92.2km
2468 calories
798 metres asc

Schnitzelishous - Day 44

Sunday 12th October 2014 - Up at 8am, dank misty morning, back to bed, then up at 10am, away 11.30am.

Stopped in the next town for food.

Passed many fields with pole and wire structures. Not sure for what exactly, vines of some sort maybe?

More road side cycling today.

Round by the river to Weltham. Oldest monastery in Bavaria. People eating at restaurants in the court yard.

Paid €7.90 for the boat to Keilham. It goes along the Danube through a gorge. Bike comes too of course. Last boat of the day is 4.15pm, so wouldn't have made it yesterday.

Off at Keilham and the sun came out, yey!

Now back to the white gravel pathway along the river, bar a few excursions through villages, it brought me into Regensburg.

It was another sunny Sunday, in a town park, everyone out walking and cycling. Being annoying and getting in my way. The path was quite narrow and yet people still walked side by side, even when they could see cyclists coming toward them.

After about half an hour my nice pleasant nature wore thin. I gave up slowing down or using my bell and just blattered on past.

Got into the town part about 4pm and saw a sign for camping, so just decide I'd had enough and I'd finish for the day.

I know that if it had of been a week day, there would've been hardly anyone using the path.

€13 for the night. Got a wash token for machine. No powder, so a hot water wash was as good as my manky clothes were gonna get.

Beer garden and gasthof just beside reception. I was the invisible person. Sat for ages and ended up having to go inside and order. Then another half hour before my drink appeared. Wouldn't need to be starving or anything!

A traditional band were playing and signing beside me as I ate my schnitzel (2 pork chops perfectly done, topped with mushrooms in cream sauce and all covered in melted cheese, plus 3 hash browns and a plate of salad) and drank my beer, so all ended well!

I have bunny rabbits for neighbours tonight too.

Day 44 - 12.10.14
Bad Gogging to Regensburg, Germany
11.30am to 4pm
2hr 59min cycling
52.2km
1402 calories
455 metres asc

Head Down and Pedal - Day 43

Saturday 11th October 2014 - Had breakfast at the hostel then had a bakery stop a couple of km down the road. Loving these giant pretzels.

Didn't fill my water bottles and the bakery didn't have water so the first 40km of the day was done dry.

Nothing too spectacular. Just more of cycle paths beside the roads. Hills this morning too. Bit of a misty murky day.

Don't think I was following the EV route, but kept going in the right general direction and as long as I wasn't cycling on the road with the cars, I was happy enough to just pedal on.

Finally stopped at a petrol station just coming into Neuburg an der Donau and got water.

On to Ingolstadt - nice town. Didn't stop, kept pedalling on through. Out the other side via a park along the river. Had to weave my way through a crowd of ones drinking, wearing white boiler suits, chanting and shouting, who were sitting in the middle of the path randomly.

Stopped at Vohburg an dear Donau - it was a ghost town. Only 4pm and everything closed. No people about.

Found a toilet, probably the most grim smelliest toilet in the world too.

Got sandwich & pretzel at an Edeka (supermarket). It was lovely. Now about 5pm and looked at map. Next campsite (if its real) was just outside  Bad Gogging and headed there by the country roads.

Site just on the side of the main road. Caravans there and people so keeping my fingers crossed rolled in.

Reception porta-cabin closed. However the farmer, on rickity, rattly bike appeared, showed me to a grassy plot and asked for €10. Nice new toilet block. Could hear the bells from the two villages the site was between throughout the night.

Early to bed as a 96km day. I did waken a few times throughout the night to eat though!

Not an exciting day, just followed signs and kinda was oblivious if I was passing anything interesting, but just wanted to get the miles done.

Day 43 - 11.10.14
Donauworth to Bad Gogging, Germany
10.30am to 5.30pm
4hr 58min cycling
96.5km
2873 calories
866 metres asc

Giant Pretzel Day - Day 42

Friday 10th October 2014 - A hedgehog came to visit last night. Thought it was a dog sniffing round my tent, but as I stepped out to go to the loo about 11pm, I saw a dark ball like shape beside my tent. Trying to figure out what I'd left lying outside, I looked closer, with the help of a full moon.

He was still there when I came back, so I offered him the only food I had, a paprika flavoured crisp.

He didn't eat it and shuffled off.

Went and got my bread order about 9am. Giant pretzel and two croissants.

Rained a bit earlier in the morning. But just packed up and rolled out about 11am.

Had watched the black clouds and rain showers off in the distance as I was packing up. Now the black clouds were to my left, and sunshine to my right. It was also muggy warm.

First 10km was through a forest, nice start to the day, birds flitting past, red squirrels bounding across the path in front of me.

Stopped at a Norma (like Lidl) and had my second giant pretzel of the morning and got some food supplies.

As I was standing outside eating, I woman putting her trolley back made a comment to me. Obviously I didn't understand and with a mouthful of food, I couldn't really speak.

Anyway, she spoke good English and was saying about the bites on my legs. We had a good chat and she was telling me about her daughter, who is training to be a teacher and is taking a group of kids to York next week.

It was really nice to have a chat with her and that she was able to understand all of what I was saying.

So, onwards. Sign for Legoland, only 5km..... nooo. Although I reckon I probably would've enjoyed it, if there were no children in it, which would be highly unlikely.

Cycled along the river for a bit. The flies are so annoying these past couple of weeks. Expected really cycling beside a river though.

I also have got loads of bites on the legs from a day or two ago. So itchy. Have one on the thumb part of my left palm. It's the worst as it is where I rest my hand on the handlebars, so got pretty sore and swollen today.

At one stage a massive digger blocked my path. He was scraping away all the top of the pathway. I waited behind until he realised I was there, didn't want squished. Eventually he saw me and moved over. Then over the rough bit he'd just dug up and onto a nice newly laid smooth path.

I've seen a few times now work being carried out. Good to see them maintaining the cycle paths. I guess its the off season for cyclists really now and the time to do it. I wonder how busy it gets during the summer with people cycling up and down.

Through some industrial areas again. Passed a big yard full of rows and rows of headstones and other stone furniture, like statues, tables, benches animals and a massive elephant which was fab looking.

Lost the Eurovelo signs coming into one town, not sure where exactly, as the cycle signs are all green writing on white boards. The EV route just has a small square hanging off the bottom of the sign.

Anyway just kept going in the right general direction. Through nice towns, with lovely colourful buildings. A farmers market on in the  square of one of them. I didn't stop.

I did stop at a Subway in Lauingen. It was next door to McDonald's. I ordered a foot length of veggies. It was nice to get some fresh vegetables into me for a change!

Stopped in Tapfheim, got money out and rhubard cake thing from a bakery. She didn't know what the English was and it looked good, so I went for it. Not a huge fan of rhubarb, but it was actually really nice.

Into Donauworth, again no camping where it said there was on the map. It was in fact a dog club!

Up to the youth hostel, €32 including breakfast, in my own room. Great view out over town, as my room is right at the top of the building.

Spent some time on WiFi trying to look for real live campsites that are still open, as I really do prefer it to being inside. Not many options, so I look for a hostel too as backup.

Quite difficult to predict where I think I'll end each day though.

Breakfast starts at 7am - I'm going to try and get up and go early tomorrow, as I read somewhere that part of the next bit of the route is a boat trip, so want to make sure I have enough time for that.

Really want to push on now and try and make Austria in a few days.

Day 42 - 10.10.14
Leipheim to Donauworth, Germany
11am to 6pm
3hr 45min cycling
68.1km
1812 calories
558 metres asc

Nice Sunny Cycle through Blaubeuren to Ulm - Day 41

Thursday 9th October 2014 - Slept so well! Up and down for breakfast just after 8am. Range of different types of bread rolls, different meats, cheese, tomato (?!), jams, etc, boiled egg, coffee (good coffee Andrea, I'm slowly being turned!).

Clothes had dried, got a shower and went down to pay up about 9.45am. The lady was so nice, she also recommended a slight detour to Ulm. She said it was about 10km more, but very nice.

The name of the place I stayed was Cafe Knebel - Hotel Garni, in Munderingen. Definitely recommend this place.

Out to a perfect blue sky and sunshine. Awesome!

I decided to take that detour.

Out along the road from town. Cycle path beside the road, so was okay.

Saw in the distance something lying on the side of the path. Got closer and oh dear, poor deer! The other side, which I refrained from taking a picture of, was like an anatomy lesson of a deer's insides.

Through a few villages. In one a tractor towing a trailer piled high with apples pulled out just ahead of me. There was a bend in the road and it was downhill. A few apples rolled off onto the road and kept rolling. I just about was able to out manoeuvre the rolling apples by slaloming through them. Today's challenge passed.

Lots more field roads, past industrial areas, then into the forest. Such a beautiful warm sunny day. The birds of prey were just catching the warm air and gliding above me in circles.

Also saw more of the spiders webs and took a photo. Some odd red and black bugs as well on a bench I nearly sat on. They were like ladybirds, but squashed.

Into Blaubeuren and it was a lovely old town, with old buildings. I stopped at a cafe beside a working waterwheel and had a bite to eat. So nice.

On to Ulm.

Coming into the city was pretty straight forward, obviously, as it was daytime and not nighttime in the rain!

Cycled along beside the railway lines for a while and they had lots and lots of allotments. All well tended.

Into the centre. Ulm Minster tower, the highest church spire in the world, a cool clock and a glass triangle library. Nice town, good feel about it too.

Easy to get out of the city again too, another thumbs up for Ulm.

Another 20km or so to the campsite I had looked up on the internet. It should be open as their dates ran from January to December and it was on a working farm.

Dying for a wee, so pushed on fast and got there around 5pm I think. Should've stopped to get food supplies on my way, but just didn't think I could!

Still really hot and sunny, quick, get the tent up, it's been festering damp in the heat now for two days.

Witnesses some kind of weird animal cruelty by kids. Three small ponies in the sand arena, loose and the kids were running after them cracking the long lunging whips at them, to make them run around. Was seriously hoping one or two of the kids would get trampled or kicked. Really don't know what was going on.

€10 for the night and ordered my bread for the morning. Got WiFi, but only the left end of my (6foot) tent gets it, should've put tent up a couple of metres to the left!

Mushroom soup and paprika crisps for tea.

Bed.

Day 41 - 09.10.14
Munderingen to Leipheim, Germany
10.30am to 5pm
4hr cycling
74.8km
1214 calories
1169 metres asc

Sleeping in a Chocolate Bedroom - Day 40

Wednesday 8th October 2014 - So it continued to rain all night. Heavy rain. Thankfully my little tent did me proud and kept me dry.

Unlike the pile of washing from yesterday. Also the tent.

Just packed it all up and got on my way, nothing I could do about it.

Went to McDonald's. Still couldn't get on their WiFi, grr.

Got going about 1pm I think it was, great view of castle on way out of town.

Pretty boring day today, roads through flat fields and farmland and grass areas.

Vaguely following river, just cycling from village to village. All have a distinct church tower that you can see off in the distance before you reach the village.

One village had large sundial on the wall of one of the houses which was class.

Riedlingen was a nice town, cool houses.

More of the dreaded gravel tracks, flicking up the mud after all the rain last night, dirt over everything. Mudguards!!

At one stage I had to cross a dodgy bridge beside a railway line. It was metal grating and not very wide, with a gap under the railings that looked like it could eat a wheel pretty easy. I made it across though safe and sound.

Then onto the forest tracks, couldn't see them for amount of leaves on ground now.

Since my first day in France I've been riding over mother natures produce that has fallen to the ground. Such a variety of things, beech nuts, chestnuts, acorns, oak apples, leaves, grapes, apples, pears....

Now though, its all starting to decay and mulch up. I can smell the apples on the ground fermenting before I reach them.

Have also noticed lots of the houses and shops have their Halloween decorations out. Its strange as the weather is still warm, it doesn't feel like October, the way it does back home.

As becoming usual now, the couple of campsites on the route that I'd seen, weren't there or closed.

I kept on going on and into Munderingen, again the campsite locked and empty. No one around.

7pm, starting to get dark and I just decided to go back up into the town and try the hotel I'd seen on the previous few info boards.

They have information boards about the upcoming route and towns and places to eat and stay. Its all in German though, so I don't really understand much. Zimmer means room I think though!

Lights off and closed.

Rang the buzzer and a smiling friendly German woman answered.

€42 for bed & breakfast and a secure bike shed. The place is a cafe as well, so I was allocated the chocolate theme bedroom. It was brown and cream and had a bar of chocolate and pieces of chocolate stuck on the ceiling and walls!

First item of business, washing out to try and get it dried for tomorrow. Radiator turned on full.

Got €8 worth of junk food from the snack stand in hallway. Couldn't be bothered going out.

Sky News, only English channel, listened to the IS and Ebola fears on repeat.

Shower and into a big comfy warm bed, ahhh!!

Looking forward to seeing what breakfast is in the morning!

Day 40 - 08.10.14
Sigmaringen to Munderingen, Germany
1pm to 7pm
3hr 35min cycling
62.8km
1744 calories
580 metres asc

Rest Day Sigmaringen - Day 39

Tuesday 7th October 2014 - Woke up at 3am. Looked out to mistiness.

Went back to sleep.

5am rain started.

Breakfast 8.30am. Coffee, peanuts, half a chocolate nuts bar and a packet of beef jerky.

Went back to sleep.

Rain showers throughout the morning. I doze on and off.

Eventually get up at 1pm. Go for shower. Wash couple of tops. No washer or dryer here, so another hand wash.

Pay for another night. Good chat with owner. He was in Belfast, a stop on his last holiday before he took over this campsite. It was a cruise from Majorca to New York. Sounded amazing.

He liked Belfast, said there was good a life to it. In bars and shops the music, even in the mornings was great.

Also said tomorrow the weather gets better for next 4 or 5 days. Good timing on my part I reckon, seeing the great route yesterday before the rain.

Tried to dry my clothes but keeps raining. I'll wait until tomorrow.

Eaten last of food, only 4 coffee sachets and 1 soup left.

Can't be bothered to go to shop or town or McDonald's (need WiFi).

6pm listen to some music and another early night I think.

Raining still.

It's actually been a good day of relaxation. I quite enjoy listening to the rain from inside my tent for a change!

Still slightly crippled too, so good to have a day to let the body heal itself.

Eurovelo 6, Tuttlingen to Sigmaringen in Amazing Autumn Colours - Day 38

Monday 6th October 2014 - Watched the bluey black light gradually spread across the dark black sky. Surroundings slowly revealing themselves.

There were wooden ladder steps up the tree opposite me in the grassy area, to a tree house.

Gathered things up and made way to picnic table. Gas out, peanuts and mushroom soup for breakfast. Then a coffee with McDonald's cream pot I acquired the other day.

All the birds are up now two, singing and chittering to each other everywhere. Woodpeckers tapping on the trees beside me.

Just waiting for water to boil, eating some peanuts and something catches my eye. Look round and see a black squireel running away from under the picnic table.

Left it a little handful of nuts to say thank you for giving me shelter in its home last night, as no doubt it'll come back when I go.

Sat for a while drinking and enjoying being the only one there in peace and quiet. Brushed the lichen and twigs out of my hair, brushed my teeth, bit of B.O. spray and then ready for another day.

Rolled back down the road. I was only about 1km from the town, a main road and the railway line. In a different world altogether though.

Through Tuttlingen and onto the Eurovelo 6 route. This will hopefully be well signposted now.

Stopped at a bakery in Stetten for a ham, pickle and cheese crusty roll, croissant and black and white Leibniz biscuits (although the chocolate minis of them are my fav at the moment).

The next 50-60km are stunning. The Eurovelo 6 section from Tuttlingen to Sigmaringen is outstanding. Even better is the fact its autumn and all the trees around are all different coulors of green, brown, gold, orange, and yellow.

Definitely, the reason why its taken me the length of time it has to get here, is so that I would get to see the colours of the trees at their most beautifulistestness!

The route follows the Danube as it cuts through a steep sided rocky valley of the Alb mountains. Big cliffs on either side.

It was a wonderful cycle today. I kept stopping every few hundred metres for photos. Then a few hours when I stopped to eat, I was looking through them and they look awful. Just don't do the scenery any justice, so I stopped taking them.

This is the part of the trip I've been looking forward to, following the Danube. As hopefully it'll be through nice areas, but also good paths and well signed, so I can make more progress each day.

One stage I came round a corner and got 30 school kids, on bridge, shouting at me in German. Teacher was a bit lost, so I helped her find her way, haha!

I have also noticed that there are trees in front of all the views I pass. I'm lucky its not summer I'm doing this cycle, as I would miss half the things I've been seeing, if the trees were full of leaves.

There were also lots of nice bridges throughout the day. I like bridges. Only interesting looking ones though.

Into Sigmaringen. Campsite open! €11.50 for the night. Danube at the front of tent, castle in town behind. Right in centre town too.

Probably stay another night as lower back, top of ass really sore. Not sure if its from the hill climbing or sitting under a tree?! Can't sit down, bend or twist. Couple of ibuprofen before bed I think.

Released an ant from my tent. Wonder if it has been stuck in it since Switzerland. Poor thing is now in a different country, away from all its mates. I hope its okay.

Chicken noodles mixed with mushroom cuppa soup for tea. Was actually quite nice! Pretty sure though I just ODed on salt, but the amount I've sweated out the last couple of days I'm sure I'll live!

Dishes washed. Struggle into my sleeping bag. Lights out 7.30pm

Day 38 - 06.10.14
Tuttlingen to Sigmaringen, Germany
9.30am to 6pm
4hr 14min cycling
61.1km
1679 calories
866 metres asc

In Search of the Danube (Donau) - Day 37

Sunday 5th October 2014 - Snorer was up early. I said to him that he snores really loud. Not sure if he understood or not.

Got my gear together, bike out of locked shed and packed up and went.

Went to McDonald's for breakfast!

Bacon and egg McMuffin, ham and cheese croissant, orange juice and a coffee. WiFi.

Morning went fine until I lost the signs. Made my own way to the next few towns toward Tuttlingen.

Through Radolfzell, Singen, Engen, Bargen and Mauenheim.

Followed a woman for a bit. Cycling with her dog in a trailer she was towing behind her. It was looking out the window and barking at other dogs as they passed them. So funny, got a photo.

Magically the signs appeared again. Not the ones I was looking for but they were going in same direction so they'd do.

Urgh. They took me the most higgeledy piggledy way round. Then the hills started, long gradually climbs and short steep ones. Up and down.

Found some walnuts and ate them half way up a climb. Back in Sarralbe (Day 28) the lady in the bar where I had my coffees, showed me a box of black mouldy round things. Said they were a local delicassy. I guess now that they were walnuts.

Also have seen lots of men out searching the leaves on the ground last few days as I cycle past, so reckon they're after them too.

Onto the dreaded, slow gravel forest tracks. With all the leaves fallen, sometimes they don't even look like paths at all.

Finally out of the forest, through a couple of fields and I found the Danube. It was tiny, I could've waded across it.

There was a campsite marked on map, but when I stopped, yep, no camping.

Youth hostel another 5km in the next village, Mohringen. Headed there, climbed up from the river through the village. Up the drive to hostel, it was really really steep, but only for about 50 odd metres I think.

Circled, changed gear, I will do this, raawwrrrr!!!!

Muscles burning, heart racing, trying to breathe, I make it without having to get off.

No one in. Not open.

Right, on to Tuttlingen. Found the McDonald's, but couldn't get logged onto their WiFi.

Big steak burger and fries.

McDonald's twice in one day, absolutely disgusted at myself. Eaten here more times in last couple of weeks than in my whole lifetime.

My clothes are getting looser though, so I'm not gonna worry about obesity just yet, I'm needing the calories obviously.

After 7pm, getting dark now. Phone needs charged.

Just decided to go up into forest for night. There was a cycle route pointing up from the road I passed, just a bit before McDonald's.

Up past a car park and on to the dark forest paths. Lights on now. Pass a house and stable yard. Keep heading on into the forest.

Eventually stop, once the noise of the tyres on the gravel and the wind rushing past my ears stops, there's nothing. No sound at all. Can't hear the cars or anything. So quiet its deafening. Its also dark.

Turn off lights, eyes adjust to the night. Stand and listen a while, to nothing. This seems ok.

There are big tall trees to my right, an open grassy area to my left and then trees the other side of it.

Look on map and there is a walking trail the other side of grass. Push bike across to it, thinking less chance of anyone on it, rather than the tarmac road.

Moon comes out, nearly a full one, so shines some light around. Still really quiet.

Screech screech screech, whit twowowowo. Owls.

Find a smallish Christmas tree and pull bike up behind it. Get my trusty plastic bag out to sit on, with my back against the tree trunk.

So quiet, I feel like I have to be quiet too. Its very still as well. Every so often a breath of air blows. This then is just enough to make the odd leaf fall off the trees around me. They sound really loud, falling through the branches then hitting the ground.

Then down jacket on and a bit later sleeping bag out to pull round me. Its actually not too cold, being dry and no wind.

Listen to the owls. They come and go, but I can hear which part of the forest they are away to when they call to each other.

Thinking what else lives in these forests. Hmmm ... hogs, wolves, bears maybe?! Heard stories about vicious wild hogs, so listen out for them. The owls screech sounds like pigs squealing now.

Car drives past on the road I came up at 9.30pm.

No sleep. Just listening. Watching the moon move across the sky.

Felt sick at one stage from tiredness, what with listening to Mr Snorathon last night, hills in the stuffy humid heat today, and still being awake.

Lorry came up the road at 4.30am. It then stopped opposite me. Lorry with a trailer. Heard footsteps. Then bang bang bang of metal. Whats going on. It then drives off.

Not long until daylight now. Fox comes down track beside me at 6am.

The couple of hours, when the moon dissappered, until a little bit of light starts to come into the sky in the east, I was staring into a Black Forest.

Christmas tree coordinates:
47°57′14.24″N 08°48′04.35″E

Day 37 - 05.10.14
Konstanz to Forest at Tuttlingen, Germany
11am to 7.30pm
4hr 49min cycling
70.7km
2222 calories
1258 metres asc

Rhine Falls, Stein am Rhein and Epic Snoring - Day 36

Saturday 4th October 2014 - The great thing about camping is you can hear the clocks chime and the bells on the hour. Even if its a bit of a distance away. Nearly every village or town has a chiming clock tower. Woke up this morning to six bells.

Lay and dozed on and off, listened to the birds and then some music for a bit. At eleven bells I got up and went for a shower.

Think I finally left about 1pm then foot down and blasted out a fast 20km to Rhine Falls. Stopped in the village just before it and got an egg, ham and pickle sandwich, some kinder bars and peanuts.

Up to Rhine Falls, Europe's largest plain water waterfalls. Tourists everywhere, coaches full of them. Milling about and taking photos. Think you had to pay to go on the observatory deck, so I parked the bike and walked down the path to the railway line bridge that you could walk along on both sides.

Looked, saw, photographed and left. Too many people.

Was going to by pass Stein am Rhein, as again there were bus loads of tourists. Headed along the road around the town, it cut past the other end of the main street, so I went for a nosey.

Lovely old mediaeval town, a lot of the buildings also had paintings on their walls. Cafes with their table and chairs along each side. Nice place, glad I stopped to see it.

Into Konstanz now, its on the shore of Lake Constance. Amazingly great cycle paths into the city, apparently as there are so few car parking places about the town, most people cycle everywhere.

Had seen a hostel the other day, closest to where I'd be coming in from, so headed there, getting dark now.

Cycled past and it looked like a motorbike shop, with lots of motorbikes parked outside in the yard. Checked map, definitely it.

So rolled down in and found the door hidden behind some wooden paneling. No lights on. Rang the buzzer. A man answered, didn't speak English. Said there was no room available. Odd place.

Look for next one, guess where it is, beside McDonald's haha!!

They have room and a bed in a dorm for €29. Aqua hostel it was called. Thought it was quite expensive for a hostel, but there were towels, shampoo, handwash and a hair dryer. Really nice clean place.

Went down to the restaurant, which was nicely decorated with a sea theme. Sat beside the fish tank. Got a fab meal of roast beef, gravy, onions, homemade pasta and beer. It was delicious!

Bit of craic on WhatsApp with a few drunkards back home, being a Saturday night.

Up to room, comfy bed. Only myself and two others in the 8 bed dorm. They were a couple from Stuttgart, who trained it here with their bicycles just for the weekend.

Someone comes in about midnight. Lights on rustles around for a while, then lights off.

Not even an hour later that person is having a wonderful sleep. Gold medal in snoring, so flipping loud, interspersed with gurgling and sighing and farting.

All night.

Earphones out for some music.

Day 36 - 04.10.14
Flaach, Switzerland to Konstanz, Germany
1pm to 8pm
3hr 58min cycling
74.3km
2112 calories
718 metres asc

Rosti & Steak Nom Nom Day 35

Friday 3rd October 2014 - That 3 mile climb last night, was a fun 3 mile descent this morning!!

Mix of cycle paths along roads, beside railways, streets of houses and finally into country.

Not much to see for most of day, just kept following the signs. Through industrial type areas and quarries. Sometimes there is no sign at a junction, so I look for the sign for people coming the opposite way and decide where they'd be coming from to see it.

Up and down now, not flat, as away from the river and it has steep banks on both sides. Seen lots of stalls along the side of the road. People make wee shacks and sell things, turnips, potatoes, lettuce, bottles of cider etc. There is a wee wooden box for the money too.

Lots of fields of lettuce and cabbage. Cycle past coloured stripe fields with all sorts of lettuce, red and green of varying shades. Farmers out collecting the spuds too.

Finally into a forest bit, gravel paths,  down to the river edge. Really beautiful spot. Crystal clear water. Really quiet. A mixture of wildlife including sharks (?!) and beavers.

Stopped here for a while. Fed the swans some raspberry yogurt cereal bar. They aren't really that nice, much prefer the chocolate banana ones that I got here from the co-op, they're yummy.

Climb back up from the river for about 4km. Pretty steep, through vineyards and lots of people out now collecting the grapes.

Sun has also come out now after being overcast all day. Still been warm though. In the middle of the next forest part, there are wire cages with lots of dogs or maybe they're wolves? No one around, just lits of dogs basking in the sunshine in home made pens. Strange?!

Got to campsite at 4pm. Check in waa at 6pm. Restaurant onsite starts at 5pm. So went back up to the town to the shop. Then came back just after five.

Restaurant was nice. Ordered a steak and rosti and beer. Last time I was in Switzerland in 2005, I had rosti and have been looking forward to having it again. Its kinda like fried shredded potatoes. Sooooooo goooooooood!!

Check in still not open when I finished, but the lady was out walking her pug dog (always see a pug dog and think Men in Black and have a wee look at their collar!)

21chf for the night. Pitched up down beside the river. Lovely new fancy toilet block again with hairdriers. Good night, but crowd of lads behind in a caravan arrive about 11pm and partied until about 2am.

Day 35 - 03.10.14
Mettau to Flaach , Switzerland
11am to 4pm
3hr 38min cycling
58.7km
1673 calories
690 metres asc

Swiss Hills - Day 34

Thursday 2nd October 2014 - The Liverpool supporters were a bit subdued this morning after a 1 nil defeat by FC Basel last night.

Bike dusted down from the muck the other night, packed up and off into the streets of Basel again.

Easier in daylight. Cycled through the train station. Crossed the Rhine over a flood gate bridge, I think. Now following the Eurovelo 6 route.

German side of river now. All went smoothly for a while. Through streets of houses and then about an hour from leaving the hostel, into the countryside.

Arrived at Rheinfelden-Baden and crossed the bridge, back into Switzerland, to stop for lunch. Nice town, old cool looking buildings. Saw some miniature goats and parked myself beside them, for something interesting to look at while I ate.

Back to it. Back over the bridge and about 5km later lost the signs. Backtracking, still couldn't find them. Grrr. So decided to cross the river at a power plant bridge I passed earlier.

All ok, but still no cycle signs. Decided to just head back to Rheinfelden and go to Bad Sackingen, the next town, by road. First though I had to follow some walking paths through the forest, which meant pushing up a bit of a steep gravel path for a bit.

Another couple hundred metres and I found the Eurovelo 6 (which is also the Swiss Route 2). Yey!

These however now lead me back into the forest. I found a Nescafe train lurking in the bushes randomly at one point.

The paths here were bad. Gravelly and rocky. Slow going, bumpy, bone shaking. Really conscious of taking it easy on the bike too.

On and on and on. I could've been riding in Tollymore Forest it had the same sort of look about it.

Gravel now in my shoes and my socks slid down into them too, irritating. Then a man on a bike stopped as I was looking at the map. I don't think he was the full ticket. Kept telling me the best way to go in broken English and the slabbers were falling out of his mouth while he talked. I said thank you and pedalled off.

Passed a campsite, had the urge to just stop, but only done about 20km. No.

Saw a woman hit her dog in the face with a frisbee and then came upon some roadworks. Guessing correctly where the cycle path went, I found the next bench and stopped.

Looked at map and knew I wouldn't get to where I was hoping to today, so looked for nearest campsite. One just outside Bad Sackingen, that'll do.

Ate some pineapple and pulled my socks up and got going.

Pedal along the river, nice big fancy houses and manicured gardens, into campsite. 4pm. So much time wasted looking for signs earlier and slow forest paths.

The lady there said that it was a private site and there was no camping. Bummer.

Look at map thinking there's plenty of green space about, I'll just keep going and see what happens.

Followed EV6 onward. Passed a Co-Op and stopped of. Bought some coffee sachets, mushroom cuppa soups and finally found some instant noodles. Now I've gas again, I can cook. If you call boiling hot water cooking. They also sold painted eggs, which was weird.

Splashed out on a Mars bar, tin of coke and an apple pastry thing to try and give myself a boost.

Pedalled on and spied a campsite in Mettau. It was away from the river, so I knew it probably be a climb up to it.

Passed a massive power line station and a castle in Laufenburg. Also saw a field of deer. Turned off from the river and climbed about 3miles, hoping that the campsite would be real. The sun was setting now.

Got there and it was real. Real nice. Expecting it to be expensive, as everything else has been in Switzerland, pleasantly surprised that it was only 14CHF for the night. Awesome toilets with toilet paper (not all campsites have) and soap and HAIRDRIERS!!!

Orderded my two croissants for the morning and pitched my tent. Had chicken noodles for dinner.

Its getting darker earlier now and I'm more a night person, so thinking I'm gonna have to make a effort to get up and away earlier now, yawn!

Lovely sunset up here on the hill and the sound of cow bells jangling around me from the moos walking about in the fields.

That's the great thing about this trip, I know there's always going to be something good round the next corner. I never know what it is, but it's the not knowing which makes them be good and me keep going, if that makes sense?!

I also love my wee tent.

Day 34 - 02.10.14
Basel to Mettau, Switzerland
11am to 6.30pm
4hr 27min cycling
67.8km
1923 calories
962 metres asc